1/32 Workbench

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
www.rcbearings.co.uk FR156zz 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/8 flanged bearing is what you want. £1.25 ea ordered 2pm yesterday here 9am this morning :)

Cynric,

They've been out of stock for a while so good to see they've got them back and yes I'm also a frequent user of the bearing/supplier you quote. Just a thunk, but in 1/32 the larger FR166zz may be a slightly better bet. I recently bought some from Arc Euro Trade (actually SFR166zz - so stainless steel) and again they arrived a day or two after ordering. They were £2.50 each for a much larger, corrosion resistant, harder -wearing bearing.

In terms of ideals I'd be looking to source SFR156zz bearings for 0-gauge and although I've found some, the high unit cost (around £4.50 ea!) or high volume necessary to get the cost down (around 1000 units) means I'm only ordering the odd one or two for particular applications (gearboxes mainly)

Incidentally, in imperial/US bearing specs:
S = Stainless Steel
F = Flanged
R = Regular (standard Imperial/US size)
###= codified size of inner/outer/width
zz = metal shielded

Steph
 

28ten

Guv'nor
The replacement valance arrived this morning
IMG_4341.JPG

I shall be removing three sections of the resin so I can have the panels slightly out of alignment
 

28ten

Guv'nor
I found some time while the laser was chugging away to form the tanks
IMG_4344.JPG

Quite a complicated shape to form but with the right tools it isnt too tricky
IMG_4345.JPG
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Yes they are ready formed :thumbs:, All the shots I have of 6326 have valancing in place, it is just not so well fixed in places :))

On a totally different tack I have been playing with brickwork - it needs toning down but my methodology of dry polyfiller brushed in and moistened works
IMG_4363.JPG
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Yes they are ready formed :thumbs:, All the shots I have of 6326 have valancing in place, it is just not so well fixed in places :))

On a totally different tack I have been playing with brickwork - it needs toning down but my methodology of dry polyfiller brushed in and moistened works
View attachment 7902

That looks terrific, it has lost the "slightly too perfect" lines and edges of the raw work.

I look forward to buying Cynrickits buildings:thumbs:

Simon
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
A new mortar mix - mdf is the way to go for bricks as it can be peeled quite nicely. some drybrushing and pigments later tonight

Cynric,

That does look excellent - particularly the roughish finish to the mortar which looks just right.

Jim.
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I am not going to say what has been said before, Excellent!!!! I like the chipped bricks on the corner are you going to attempt spalded bricks on the face itself'

Ian

I would add that it looks like the retaining walls of Birmingham New Street
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
particularly like the spalling brickwork, will you be going for 'gold' and trying to get an efflorescence effect as well?

cheers

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Mike I had to look that up:) but yes I will, along with a couple of spalled bricks. mitring the corners is certainly worth the effort and a better router table is a project for the weekend....
I must exercise a degree of restraint and not throw every trick at the wall !
I'm not sure pollyfilla would work in smaller scales, emulsion paint might be better,but t would loose the advantages of a dry mix
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I think a possible way to get the efflorescence effect, would be to apply a weak pva solution over an area and 'throw' talc on it, that way you should get the 3d effect of the crystals - don't ley SWMBO see you taking her talc though!

cheers

Mike
 

28ten

Guv'nor
Nothing like an hour hacking up expensive bits of resin :))
IMG_4376.JPG

This shows the characteristic bits flapping look - just enough to add a bit of character
IMG_4377.JPG
 
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