oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Is Brian going to weather it?
NO!!!!!
Mick - Just superb. I will use it, 'cause that's what I do, but it really deserves to be in a glass case.
Warren - lovely paint job too.
Brian
7mm Finney Battle of Britain
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
NO!!!!!
Mick - Just superb. I will use it, 'cause that's what I do, but it really deserves to be in a glass case.
Warren - lovely paint job too.
Brian
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Looks the absolute bulleids mate!
Just one thing though, gotta get rid of those brass centres on the wheels...??
A word to using the photo booth. If you're getting the creases showing up, just use a bit of white foamboard behind just enough to be bigger than the subject and then the rest can be cleaned up in PS..
JB.
Just one thing though, gotta get rid of those brass centres on the wheels...??
A word to using the photo booth. If you're getting the creases showing up, just use a bit of white foamboard behind just enough to be bigger than the subject and then the rest can be cleaned up in PS..
JB.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
JB, cheers.
No photo booth, just laid the sheet on the desk and up the wall to the shelves above, I didn't use the full light set up, just a quick and dirty one and yes, playing with the white and highlight levels got rid of all but the darkest crease shadows, the rest went with the airbrush
I've heard of folks using foamboard, usually thin stuff and making a curved backdrop or even just a good nice clean ironed sheet, the problem with the back sheets in the kits is that they crease very easily
I do need to tone the wheel centres down and just noticed I haven't fitted the cab door drop pins, not that you can see they're missing in the photos.
MD
No photo booth, just laid the sheet on the desk and up the wall to the shelves above, I didn't use the full light set up, just a quick and dirty one and yes, playing with the white and highlight levels got rid of all but the darkest crease shadows, the rest went with the airbrush
I've heard of folks using foamboard, usually thin stuff and making a curved backdrop or even just a good nice clean ironed sheet, the problem with the back sheets in the kits is that they crease very easily
I do need to tone the wheel centres down and just noticed I haven't fitted the cab door drop pins, not that you can see they're missing in the photos.
MD
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Believe it, or believe it not..........I qualified as a professional photographer in 196..... forgotten in the mists of time. (I've got sustificuts and everything). And I got so fed up with people asking me to take photos of their weddings that I sort of lost interest, so moved on to Motion Picture. But that's another story. But I know about the theory.......
In this case a sheet of white cartridge paper of sufficient size curved up the back of the subject would suffice. Cotton sheets is good, but they have to be ironed flat as has already been noted. And they are bloody huge.
B
In this case a sheet of white cartridge paper of sufficient size curved up the back of the subject would suffice. Cotton sheets is good, but they have to be ironed flat as has already been noted. And they are bloody huge.
B
mickoo
Western Thunderer
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Aah, yes, Mick. But when 'er indoors has a use for it, a b****y great hole in the bedding won't go down too well. Don't ask me how I know.
B
B
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
My thanks to the folks at Finney7 for the surprise package in the post. The missing tender chassis parts and castings have duly been added to the rest of the boxed kit. Other than the fact that I've got lots of unfinished other projects to crack on with, I'm running out of excuses not to at least start the Bulleid tender.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Leave yourself plenty of time for the tender. It's a wonderful kit but lots of pieces. I think I counted 71 on the tender front plate alone.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Despite spending most of the day musing over toys bought at Telford, I did achieve some progress on the BLP.
All of the wheels were cleaned before the show, yet four days later they were beginning to rust badly, so I had to do something about it, blackening was the answer and with results bordering on marginal before, I set about the task again.
This time was slightly different, instead of applying the solution neat with a cotton bud I dropped them completely in a diluted solution, no idea of the ratio but 5:1 - 6:1 or something. Anyway, peering into the tub they started to darken and at a given moment I pulled them out and dried them.
At this point they continued to darken rapidly and then develop a greenish brown fur which when rubbed started to expose the bright metal underneath. So a quick wash in warm water and a clean with cloth I was back to the start with moderately darkened wheels. Strangely the wash in water enriched the colour and seemed to make the processed items more durable.
The second attempt was slightly different, observing what had gone on before, it appears that the darkening process really takes hold once the item is exposed to air after it's bath and then firms up when washed with water. So into the blackening solution bath they went again and this time removed out onto a paper towel to get rid of most of the excess water. Then it was straight into another bowl of clean water, where they sat for a few minutes whilst I prepared the final stage.
Final stage was to squirt some oil onto a surface and liberally coat a cotton bud with said oil, removing the wheels from the water, a quick dry and gentle rub followed by a good drubbing of oil. This I left for five minutes before wiping the excess off and refitted to the axles, also treated the same way.
View attachment 58740
Et voila, black wheels and axles, finally!
The treads need a little polish but I'll leave that until right at the end, so as to preserve the darkening layer for as long as possible; the thin layer of oil makes for a superb dust magnet
I'll do the driving wheels tomorrow and think about applying some brass blackening to the brass boss to tone it down, that'll have to be the cotton bud method but I have a plan I'll try that replicates the above minus the bath affair.
So, what was today's lesson, dilute your blacking agent, do not expose the component to the atmosphere with the agent on for too long (max 20-30 seconds) before soaking in water, apply a protective layer (oil) as soon as washed and dry.
We'll see if these last a little longer before corrosion sets in.
MD
Hi Mick,
Out of interest, how well has your wheel blackening process stopped the dreaded Slaters wheel rust developing over time? Anything you'd do differently after a year or so has passed?
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I am the owner. 
There is no sign of any rusting to the wheels.
Brian
There is no sign of any rusting to the wheels.Brian
Paul Cambridge
Western Thunderer
As a new member to WT, these 18 pages have been a very interesting read. I’ve homed in on the Finney7 Southern threads first. I am impressed with what I have seen. Would I like a West Country? Yes please. Do I have the free time at the moment? Sadly no 
. Should I build a smaller, simpler kit first? Yes. M7 would be nice or possibly a ??? Depending on what’s announced in the next couple of years. I’m a bit of a snail at the moment with modelling, having lost my motivation for over a year. The plan at the moment is to completely clear out and build the stock of kits in the cupboard before buying anything new.
. Should I build a smaller, simpler kit first? Yes. M7 would be nice or possibly a ??? Depending on what’s announced in the next couple of years. I’m a bit of a snail at the moment with modelling, having lost my motivation for over a year. The plan at the moment is to completely clear out and build the stock of kits in the cupboard before buying anything new.
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Chris,
coincidentally to your question, I happened to look at the Park chassis the other day and found that both wheels on one axle only are showing signs of rusting
they have been left in the (open) box more or less since taking the last set of photos, but it is strange that the wheels on only one axle have become affected. A quick rub with an old tooth brush soon removed it and hopefully the rust will stay away once the loco is up and running - in the not too distant future.
regards
Mike
