Painting and lining

oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Hi Warren.

I've only hand lined a single loco so far but have to say I found it easier than using Fox transfers. Your lining looks superb - I've found that painting in the rounded corners using a fine brush and then cutting back with a cocktail stick or fine brush just barely damp with thinners works for me - but that's not original thought. I probably read it on one of your messages!

I have a question though. Your red lines look much more intense than I've managed. I know that red paint tends to be translucent and one suggestion has been to use the red on top of a white line. However, applying a narrow red line on top of an equally thin white line seems beyond the realms of possibility. For all that, the appearance of the hand lined model is, to my mind, superior to the look of locos with Fox transfers which to my eye appear too vivid.

I'll be grateful for your thoughts about this.

Best regards.

Brian
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Rob, do you want cash or a cheque:D

Brian, The key to believable lining is understating it, tan for orange, pale grey for white, yellow with brown in it for yellow ect... The only time you should overstate lining is with the red/vermillion on crimson lake,
The red I use is plain old Humbrol 19, It is from the new batch mixed back in the UK. The stuff mixed in the far east is like p***. Even so when I buy a new pot of lining paint I remove the lids slightly and stir regularly. After about 2 or 3 months it is approaching useable. If you don't want to wait that long you can go for a 50/50 mix of phoenix bufferbeam red and humbrol 19. The phonex is ok on its own but tends to dry out a bit quick. The camera has overexposed the red, it is much finer to the naked eye but still easily visible.

Compton, I don't have any decent pictures of one at the moment but I have a couple which I will be doing this week.
If you let me have your email address I will send some pics of out of the box then finished.

Cheers Warren
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
warren haywood said:
Rob, do you want cash or a cheque:D

The key to believable lining is understating it, I remove the lids slightly and stir regularly. After about 2 or 3 months it is approaching useable.
Click to expand...

Hi again Warren.

That's fascinating! I think the hand lining I've done looks better because it indeed appears understated. However, the biggest eye opener for me is the suggestion to use older red paint - I used the Humbrol too, UK mix as far as I'm aware, and a brand new can. That may just be the answer. I'll try an older can next time.

Many thanks indeed.

Brian
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Brian, the problem with fresh humbrol is its too thin. When put on with a bow pen it will spread out slightly so not only will the line lose its finesse it will also lose density. A good test is to give it a stir then the paint left on the cocktail stick should stay there and not run off. Also if you load the pen about 5mm behind the tip it should take a good few seconds maybe 20 to reach the tip. This is about the perfect consistancy. I dont know how old my current red pot is, probably 6 months and about half of it is used.
When brushing in corners use the paint from the pen as this is starting to dry and is thicker.
If i think of any more tips i will let you know
Warren
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Beautiful paint job, Warren.
It's a shame the model doesn't really do it justice, that wonky cab widow and the misfired tender beading would drive me up the wall!
Steph
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Beautiful paint job, Warren.
It's a shame the model doesn't really do it justice, that wonky cab widow and the misfired tender beading would drive me up the wall!
Steph
Click to expand...

I have three pairs of glasses, long, medium and short range, I'd simply put my long range ones on and it'd look perfect:thumbs: Shall I send you the prescription LOL.

I know where your coming from though and sometimes catch myself with +2 glasses plus magnifying glass to get things straight and then put on my normal glasses and sit back and wonder what an earth all the fuss was about ;)
Digital cameras seem to expose every little error which in normal life seems to....well....evaporate, especially when the model is six feet away on your toy train set :)
 
tomstaf

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
warren haywood said:
Rob, do you want cash or a cheque:D

Brian, The key to believable lining is understating it, tan for orange, pale grey for white, yellow with brown in it for yellow ect... The only time you should overstate lining is with the red/vermillion on crimson lake,

Cheers Warren
Click to expand...

Hi Warren,

These are looking truly wonderful, they capture the real thing in miniature extremely well. I'm in complete agreement with the 'scaling down paint' technique you use. Not something that too many people seem to do. You've done it to great affect!

Cheers

Tom
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Hi Warren,

I saw your paint job on that MOK Standard 4 on Tony's WB and it looks fantastic. I wondered if possible, if you don't mind, could you do a little write up here on the BR mixed traffic lining? I only ask as I wanted to attempt hand lining in the future and this would be the lining I would be using. It just seems extremely difficult with the three different colours ?

Many thanks Mick :thumbs:
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick
I've a B1 to do this week so I will do picks and explanation as I go along

I also have a close up picture of a black 5 somewhere, I will see if I can find it

warren
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Right, ignore thr B1, I've spent the last half hour lining a bit of scrap

Firstly you will need humbrol gloss 5,7 and 19.
A good quality pen, mines a haff 135h and a Bow pen compass of equal quality. The haff ones are ok but they are a bit big and get in the way. Mine are a set of Kerns off eBay. Some dividers don't go amiss, these help set spacing and corner radius. a top quality brush is also required, nothing beats W&N series 7 in oo or oo. A nice heavy steel ruler finishes the tackle.


image.jpg

First line is the cream, here I have gone as fine as I can to show what a good pen can achieve although I would normally go a bit thicker and overlap the grey



image.jpg

The corner is then brushed in at about 3" radius, remember the grey outer line will get this upto the correct 4" radius



image.jpg

Next the grey is ruled touching the cream



image.jpg

And finally the red set 2" from the cream



image.jpg

Normally I would allow at least 24 hrs drying time between the grey and cream stages. If you are not going to foul these the red can be done at the same time as the grey. after a days drying the whisks of paint left from correcting can be removed with a cotton bud

Valance edges, splashers,tender curves and large radius corners can be done by offsetting the compass.
Hope this is all clear
Cheers Warren
 
Ressaldar

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Warren,

I have seen one of your B1 painted locos and really like the 'varnish' coating -could you please let me know what type is it that you use?

regards

Mike
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Hi Warren,

That's fantastic, thank you for taking the time to put that together, it really is appreciated. I will collect the tools you describe and I think a good practice on some scrap will be in order. On the cream line picture it looks like you've used the compass to put the radius in ? Is this the case or is it put in with a brush ? Looking forward to seeing the B1 lined out,

ATB Mick
 
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