Painting and lining

[7mmMick]

Mick, the curve is put in with a brush, in the picture are dividers used for marking the correct corner radius
While I'm in the mood, I thought you might like this one,

Next lesson will be passenger livery lining

Right, off to Bolton now

Thanks Warren, you're right I do like the photo When using the dividers do you just lightly score the radius on and then brush in then ? Have a good one at Bolton. I would like to have gone but the wife is working so it's death by kids party for me

ATB Mick

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Mike, it's just cellulose lacquer sprayed at high pressure and diluted about 5:1 with thinners. I have also used this over an enamel finish with good results but practice is advised first ;-)
Warren

Hi Warren,

many thanks for the speedy reply, enjoy Bolton.

cheers

Mike

 

[Scale7JB]

I've got two LNER lined green to do soon, so on the hunt for tips and lining pens..

Fantastic stuff..

JB.

 

[warren haywood]

Mick, the dividers are set at 4" using a 7mm scale ruler. A small nick is made in each line back from the point where they would meet. The paint is then mopped up with a spirit damp brush back to the nicks. The corner is now brushed in freehand without guides. The more you practice this the better the arc becomes. When I do orange lining demo I will try to show this in the photos as the above explanation is maybe not as clear as it could be
Warren

 

[7mmMick]

Great, thanks Warren How was Bolton?

Mick

 

[warren haywood]

Hi Mick, Bolton was ok, the sun was out and the show wasn't too packed

JB, best tip I can give you for LNER is to use a very pale grey ( I use humbrol ivory with a spot of black in it) White lining is very unforgiving and the slightest errors stand out a mile





Although not LNER this is lined in pale grey but you wouldn't know
Cheers Warren

 

[warren haywood]

The following pictures show how I go about inset lining.
As a rule the for British Railways the lining is set 5" from the edge of a panel although this can be as much as 1'6" on stanier tenders


The width of the lines is set with dividers at 2.25", make sure they are parallel .





Now the dividers are set at 4" (3" for GWR) . Each line has a tiny nick put into the paint.






Next the paint is cut back to the marks with a brush dampened with spirit







And finally brush in the arcs, it's easier if you do the inner one first, allow 24hrs to dry before adding the black line

 

[warren haywood]

I have just finished these V2's this afternoon and thought they looked quite pretty. So here's a couple of piccys hopefully the correct way up





















Warren

 

[7mmMick]

They do look lovely Warren, are they kit built ? I particularly like the BR black one, you don't see many in black,

ATB Mick

 

[Rob Pulham]

Sorry Mick, I much prefer the Green one

 

[warren haywood]

Hi Mick, they are from Finescalebrass.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Warren, do you paint the name plates too?

 

[warren haywood]

Hi Warren, do you paint the name plates too?

No Rob, they are guilplates. Don't know how close the shade of green is tho!

 

[Rob Pulham]

Cheers

 

[Susie]

Hi Warren,

As you use Humbrol for the lining, I assume that you cannot then give a final celly varnish?

Susie

 

[warren haywood]

Hello Susie,
Celly lacquer is fine over enamel if it is sprayed dry. Dry basically means high dilution about 5:1 thinners to lacquer and a high air pressure maybe about 30-40psi. The lacquer is then misted on from about 8-10 inches very lightly. The mix is almost dry when it lands and gives a wonderful satin finish that nothing else comes close to. If you require a glossier finish then lower the dilution and the air pressure. Although this is wetter it won't effect the enamel if again applied as a mist as the thinner evaporates before it has time to react with the hardened enamel. I have lacquered locos painted in enamel with no problems. Like all other aspects of painting no explanation can equal actually having a go. Spray up some empty coke tons and have a play, u will be amazed at the results you can acheive.
Warren

 

[warren haywood]

Went to Hobby craft with the wife yesterday, she wanted some of those artificial flowers, don't know why
I wondered off on my own and found some soft pastel stick things and thought they might be ok for weathering so I bought a few gunky colours.
I gave them a try today on this Jubilee I had to finish in a medium weathered condition.








I think they look quite convincing, it's probably been done many times by many people but as I hate weathering I was trying to find some thing quick and easy. I gave the model a light dusting of humbrol metalcote gunmetal mixed with matt black, then got to work with the powders and a flat brush. The above pictures are the result of about 15 mins work

 

[adrian]

As you use Humbrol for the lining, I assume that you cannot then give a final celly varnish?

As Warren has said cellulose is fine over enamel. The only thing to be cautious of is that the enamel has fully cured - not just dry. Not just lining but I have seen people paint cellulose over an enamel base coat, the thing was that the enamel had been left for a couple of weeks to fully cure and harden. Once that has been done it is fairly impervious to anything you put over the top - including cellulose paint. As recommended by Warren try spraying a few empty coke cans - you'll be surprised what you can get away with despite all the "experts" telling you otherwise.

 

[alcazar]

Does anyone know if it's possible to modify an old Rotring pen nib unit for use as a lining pen? Has it been done?

I can't see the difference between one and those sold by Bob Moore and Peter Spoerer.

 

[ZiderHead]

I can't imagine paint flowing through a Rotring pen easily, if at all. Rotring ink is considerably thinner despite its opacity. Its possible I suppose, my pens are all in storage so I can't try it.