7mm On Heather's Workbench - small and perfectly formed

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Ticking a few more items off the checklist today, so far.

I have soldered the sandboxes to the footplate. I was considering glue of some kind, but as they are substantial white metal castings, I managed to low-melt them into place without singeing fingers too badly.

Those nasty bunker filling bits were tackled next.

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The driver's side wasn't bad, but judicious dabs of low melt solder into the cracks, followed up with scraping and some whizzydisc work with a 240 grit sanding disc worked quite well. The rivet detail has been sacrificed, but I am pondering the notion of replacing it with minute drops of PVA after priming.

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The fireman's side was much worse, and needed a fair amount more solder to plug the unevenness. Again, rivet detail has gone south, and a little work with fine wet'n'dry is still needed, but that's a whole bunch better than it was an hour ago.

Next on my list are the steps on the front of the tanks. Typically, my chosen loco seems to have different steps to other members of the class, so I shall do some intense peering at contemporary images before I decide to go with the apparent current form or the "standard" steps.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Do "you guys over there" get things like the Grandt Line plastic sprue rivets?

Probably. For some reason, they're not often stocked by UK companies, and I rather dislike ordered from across the pond.

I'll follow up Adrian's link. I've heard a lot of interesting things about Archer's rivet decals.

EDIT: I found a UK stockist of both lines, not far from here. I shall get an order sorted out. ;)
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Heather,

I like the masking tape on the steam heat pipe. IIRC most of the time it was painted black (or green?).
If you want to go really posh with the rivets you could try Scale Hardware for them. IIRC Eileen's sell them.
If you had asked I could have given you a condenser coil, as seen here on a County build that I'm doing.
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Keep up the good work,

OzzyO.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks, OzzyO.

I found an importer for Grandt Line and Archer bits, not far from me down in Dover. I think I shall make an order up and get some of the useful little bits and bobs in stock. I've noticed Eileen's stock the Scale Hardware items, too. :thumbs:

Meanwhile, I have been fitting sanding pipes. Forgetting, of course, now the boxes are fitted to the footplate and not the frames, it makes it harder to get the latter apart from the former! I have a feeling the front pipes will be fitted after painting and final assembly, and probably fixed with "permanent" PVA.

D'oh!

I've just spoken to Chris at Severn Mill Nameplates. I ordered a caution plate and NB works plates. Sadly, he doesn't do 7752 in the range, so has forgiven me for acquiring the plates from Guilplates!

The tank front steps, it seems to me, for this loco at least, were changed at some point in its life from riveted to welded. Studying the earlier images, it seems likely to me the riveted version was as built, so that's what I've fitted.

Another thing off the check list.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I've just spoken to Chris at Severn Mill Nameplates. I ordered a caution plate and NB works plates. Sadly, he doesn't do 7752 in the range, so has forgiven me for acquiring the plates from Guilplates!

The tank front steps, it seems to me, for this loco at least, were changed at some point in its life from riveted to welded. Studying the earlier images, it seems likely to me the riveted version was as built, so that's what I've fitted.
Other sources of 7mm GWR number plates are Finney (backing plate and separate numerals) and CPL.

If a tank had rivetted footsteps and then, later, had welded footsteps then that is an indication that the "tank" had been swapped during a general overhaul (or at least when the engine had a boiler lift). In the same manner that engines might swap tenders during a visit to the Factory there is no fundamental reason why tanks / bunkers might not be exchanged.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Graham, very true.

I'm attempting to finish this build to represent a loco in its first flush of youth, perhaps no more than five years from building. It will never be a 100 per cent accurate representation of 7752 in such condition, but I am fairly happy with the outcome so far. Of course, it goes without saying it wouldn't be half as good if it wasn't for the able assistance of everyone who has pitched in with reference material and good advice during this build.

I am now very close to be moving things to the paintshop. Just one or two niggly things to worry away at, like the whistle mounting and fitting the ATC pickup so it doesn't foul the rear coupling...
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
I'll follow up Adrian's link. I've heard a lot of interesting things about Archer's rivet decals.

Hi Heather. I was very sniffy about the concept of rivets applied as a decal. Then I had some riveted, sealed loo windows on my Maunsell push pull set to fabricate, and no rivetter with a travelling stage, so following Steph's suggestions tried the Archer rivets. They are magic and look great.

The only possible issue I can see is matching the size to those already embossed on the loco. They are a bit pricey but it may be worth considering buying a couple of sizes. Ships and hap'orths of tar come to mind!

Here's a photo of one of the plated over loo windows so you can see what I mean.

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Hope that's a convincing argument.

Brian
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
This morning's effort have chiefly been about preparation for painting.

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Everything has been broken down, and most of the underparts have been chemically blackened. Vulnerable edges have also had some treatment. If the weather holds, I might get the etch primer blown over things this weekend.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I think painting is not that far off. I can tell because I am down to fiddly final details.

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The steam heat and vacuum brake pipes are now attached to the relevant buffer beams. If you have this kit, take note the front pipe is just about wrong on all counts for this loco, so I ended up fabricating from 1.6mm brass rod.

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The crew are fitted with their pegs, to make them easier to handle during painting and also to "plant" them in the cab.

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Finally, for this morning at least, driving wheel balance weights are going in.
 

Purple-haze

Western Thunderer
Heather,this has been a fantastic "how to do it"story,and shows not only your skills but also just how helpful the folk are on this site.Hats orf to you all:thumbs:.It has even made me pick up and have a go at my MMP 08:eek:.


regards

Rog
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Rog!

I have to be in the right mood for the paintshop. Displacement behaviour keeps kicking in. I think tomorrow I will get up there and tidy the place up, ready for work.
 

Compton castle

Western Thunderer
Hi heather
When you get the plates for guilplates check the smoke box door plate they are usually not square, they could do with being filed down a bit.
Fox transfers are now doing plates in 7mm as well. There 4mm stuff were always superb. Ive yet to see the 7mm ones though
 
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