BR Blue shunty planky TMD yard layout 33 challenge SPITAL JUNCTION now Kings Cross Depot

mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
BrushType4 said:
You made these?
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Yes and some more letters since but not sure which so will dig them out, but fairly sure TULYAR letters are done as well since. Only NIMBUS is finished, the rest are letters only at this stage, might progress a couple at the weekend.

Need to sort some technical issues like painting as the sides of the letters and beading should really be red and not silver, was just easier to mask this way, actually letters were sprayed all silver and then stuck on, also forgot to spray back at the same time so as the paint leeched into the front the wood surface expanded a fraction and imparted a bow in the nameplate, about 4mm mid length IIRC.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Yes, as accurate as I can get them off high detail side photos of the real nameplates, I know the height of the back ground, the beading size and letter height so its not hard to work out the spacing for each nameplate, which incidentally do not seem to conform to any standard spacing, letter kerning can be closer or further depending on the original pattern maker and is usually adjusted to fit.
 
BrushType4

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Thinking I just need some wet sand, molten ally and to 'borrow' that very nice Nimbus pattern....

Hmm can I get the gas hob hot enough to heat up my ally nuggets?
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
BrushType4 said:
Thinking I just need some wet sand, molten ally and to 'borrow' that very nice Nimbus pattern....

Hmm can I get the gas hob hot enough to heat up my ally nuggets?
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Wet sand is no good, the metal will dry it out too quickly and the mould will collapse, you need casting sand which if my dim engineering school days recall has some sort of oil added to help it keep its shape under high temperatures.

Metal would be a better material as you could paint it all red and then polish off the letters as per 1:1, I've considered casting in resin but never got around to it, same issue with painting would apply as to the wooden ones.

No good using this one as a master as there are gaps under the letters, you'd need a joint free one, preferably with a small fillet around the base of each letter and around the beading base to ease casting.

We don't have a crucible or furnace at work....that I know of....or else I'd have bashed a few out, I could work out the volumetric area and that'd give you an idea of the amount of alloy you'd need but a rough guess would be 5Kg or so, I'd make it a few mm thicker so the slag floated to the back and then I could fly cut the rear to make it nice and smooth.

Only other option is to give the master to a local casting firm and pay them to cast, not sure how much that'd cost.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
40126 said:
They look brilliant :thumbs:

I want a Pinza one :bowdown:

Steve :cool:
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LOL they're not that good close up (I don't think), as I say, I need to perfect the painting to be authentic with red sides to the letters and beading.

Ironically PINZA is one that I have actual measurements of from NRM last year
IMG_3973c.JPG

Mind if I made one with paint as bad as that I'd be horrified, all dented and dinged, it maybe authentic but it looks appalling. I should of taken another more oblique shot as it looks like the red only runs part way up the letter sides in that shot, but you can clearly see the fillet at the letter and beading base. A good example of uneven kerning, note the letter A is closer to Z than the other letters are to each other.

I'll try and make the bases for MELD and PINZA at the weekend and seal/ prime them and then take it from there.
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
mickoo said:
Wet sand is no good, the metal will dry it out too quickly and the mould will collapse, you need casting sand which if my dim engineering school days recall has some sort of oil added to help it keep its shape under high temperatures.
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Again dredging it up from the dim and distant past - I seem to remember from college using linseed oil as a binder in the sand, although this might have just been for making the cores.
 
Andrew Thompson

Andrew Thompson

Western Thunderer
BrushType4 said:
Yes please. That would be great Andrew.
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Both

I have now retrieved the plan ,scanned and attach .Not sure how this will work as not the most gifted technical innovator .If need an actual copy drop me a PM . As can be seen done to a scale of 20 ft to the inch and the plan is actually around 4ft by 2 ft 6in.

Andrew
 

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C

Clive

Guest
Hi All

Over the years I have been planning a model of Kings Cross Bottom Shed/ Passenger Loco ever since the Peter Kazmierczak's plan appeared in Model Railway Constructor , late 70s. last year I finalised my idea, again. The concept is that the viewer is on the end of platform 10 watching the loco movements and the workings of the suburban station. From my tainspotting days the view from the end of platform 10 towards the suburban platforms was limited by the trainshed over 11, 12 and 13 so not too much of the suburban side of the Cross needs to be modelled. To get to the suburban platforms the trains entered the station area through the Up Relief tunnel.

Loco movements from the mianline station to and from the shed involved reversing in the Down Main tunnels, so locos on the model would use these as the fiddle yard.

On my plan the points with a red dot are non working.
Bottom Shed WT.pngA BIG THANK YOU to Phil for his plans they will help me a lot.

Yours

Clive

PS, it will be in 4mm...OO :thumbs:
 

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Colin M

Colin M

Western Thunderer
Clive said:
Hi All

The concept is that the viewer is on the end of platform 10 watching the loco movements and the workings of the suburban station.

PS, it will be in 4mm...OO :thumbs:
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Clive,

Great idea for a different viewing perspective. If you can support your boards at a high level, the viewing angle will help support the "spotter's view" illusion.

I wondering if 9' is a bit tight for space, even in 4mm?

Nice one... I'm looking forward to seeing this progress.

Colin
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Clive said:
Hi All

. The concept is that the viewer is on the end of platform 10 watching the loco movements and the workings of the suburban station. From my tainspotting days the view from the end of platform 10 towards the suburban platforms was limited by the trainshed over 11, 12 and 13 so not too much of the suburban side of the Cross needs to be modelled. To get to the suburban platforms the trains entered the station area through the Up Relief tunnel.

Loco movements from the mianline station to and from the shed involved reversing in the Down Main tunnels, so locos on the model would use these as the fiddle yard.
Click to expand...
That would be very visually interesting with quite high baseboards & platform 10 on the facing edge of the boards IMO, you would then view the layout as we all did at Kings Cross :cool:

A couple of pics from my 1976 Rail Rover :)...........

img146.jpg

no88img213jl5.jpg

Sorry about the rubbish quality (Kodak Instamatic) :oops::D

What period are you planning to model it ?

Phill :)
 
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