Building a Roxey coach kit

Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
Hi,

I am getting ready to build a 4mm Roxey coach kit of an exSECR P+P driving trailer, I have the Comet coach building guide and Part Two of Stephen Williams.

However the more guidance, the increased likelihood of completing the kit - does anyone recall a well illustrated article in any of the monthlies about tackling an etched coach with a blow by blow account of the process?

My constant companion of rapidly advancing Parkinson's does make the task something of a challenge and I did approach those builders recommended but a single coach did not seem to be of interest BUT not to be deterred, I want to have a go hence the plea for help.


Thank you

BR

Roxey Mouldings Model SECR_Southern_BR Push Pull Trailers.jpg
 
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Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
Hi,

Some progress, the kit finally emerged from the packet. The original roof has been replaced with a preformed item from the SRG, I was surprised to discover that the kit was not totally complete and I need additional details like grab handles. I believe that seats are available from Slaters, Wizard and possibly rtr sets from Replica and Dapol.
This really is a learning curve.

BR


E9312EE3-510A-461F-B358-A4EE7EB6C2C4.jpeg
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Hi BR,

I'm surprised there are no grab handles with the kit. I know thay are provided with the 7mm scale range. Maybe a phone call to Dave at Roxey might answer the question, as he is very helpful.

This might also be of help to you:

Ian
 
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Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
Hello Ian,

A request to buy the appropriate accessory set has already been sent to Dave. He is a good guy and has been extremely helpful.

Thank you

Tim
 

Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
A photo of 660, the only one that I could find. Please, any other images out there?

365BDB9A-175B-4AC5-B6DD-043649D1610F.jpeg

An a bit more progress, the droplights are in.

928F2DF7-3A06-4196-98C2-5AA183EDFDE5.jpeg

Thanks

Tim
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Please don’t think anyone isn’t interested Tim. Everyone has their own particular interests and will often gravitate towards them, but that doesn’t mean you dont have anyone looking.

Now, as to magnets, I used some on a 7mm build of some Slater's Maunsells. Those kits were intended to have the roof permanently fixed to the bodywork, which to me is anathema. I glued the magnets to ledges inside the tops of the ends of the body, and used thin strips of biscuit tin glued into the roof. I found sufficient grab from the magnets to hold everything in place. I also added small blocks to ensure the roofs were aligned correctly as regards end overhang.

I'm afraid I can't offer advice in which magnets would be most suitable, but even very small rare earth jobs are very powerful. They don’t even need to make physical contact with the "attractor" strip to hold well.
 

Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
Heather,
My apologies but I can only judge forums in comparison to my experience on the ‘other place’, being ignored whilst providing ‘entertainment’ was the norm however I preferred a low profile on there for reasons that others have also experienced.
The recent failure of their platform and subsequent loss of images was my cue to skedaddle. Instead of forum activity, I have maintained a blog since 2010 which attracts little attention but neither does it require my input after posting.

Magnets - I have a stash of various micro devices, as the roof is aluminium, they seem to be an answer for holding it in place. Unfortunately not sure how to do so at the moment.

Tim
 
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Mike W

Western Thunderer
Tim,

339 views by this afternoon doesn't mean a lack of interest! For myself I am not able to offer any useful advice, so best to stay quiet, but I am reading your posts with interest. And it looks like a nice carriage is emerging.

Mike
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Aren’t these kits designed to have the body as a unit? That’s certainly true of the LSWR set I built (for someone else) a few years ago and while that does make painting and glazing a little tricky I think it's probably the least worst option, partly because the real thing was like that, but also because it makes the thing a bit more robust. That said, I'm not much of a carriage builder.

Adam
 
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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Aren’t these kits designed to have the body as a unit? That’s certainly true of the LSWR set I built (for someone else) a few year’s ago and while that does make painting and glazing a little tricky I think it's probably the least worst option, partly because the real thing was like that, but also because it makes the thing a bit more robust. That said, I'm not much of a carriage builder.

Adam
I think that depends on where the come in Roxey's design timeline. I did a 48' that the roof was last to go on. I had to cut it about to have a fixed roof and free underframe. I must really try and get a set of 7mm 48's.
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
In a way, it is irrelevant what the kit designer intended as far as assembly is concerned. I built all my coaches with the roof loose regardless of instructions. They are easier to glaze and one is dropping the interior in from the top, the widest part of the coach. If the roof is grey or white, there are no worries about overspray down the coach ends.

To me, coach kits are scratch builder aids. Most etched sides are 25.5mm high so that you have a constant gutter line. If they are higher, I trim them back unless they are elderly narrow bodied coaches.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
this is a steep learning curve

Amen. I’m about to join you - I know, right? I’ve just started familiarising myself with a batch of 4mm coaches from D&S, and the client has decided he wants Rumney Models/Miscellany Models bogies. After my 7mm stuff, they’re tiny!

I wonder if the etched bogies are a decent compromise compared to whitemetal castings. The latter may look chunkier than the designer would like. I should add you seem to have conquered them as they look rather nice, albeit fragile.
 

Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
Amen. I’m about to join you - I know, right? I’ve just started familiarising myself with a batch of 4mm coaches from D&S, and the client has decided he wants Rumney Models/Miscellany Models bogies. After my 7mm stuff, they’re tiny!

I wonder if the etched bogies are a decent compromise compared to whitemetal castings. The latter may look chunkier than the designer would like. I should add you seem to have conquered them as they look rather nice, albeit fragile.
Hi,

I am merely using whatever came with the kit PLUS the bits that were not present;- grab and T handles, a decent roof, seating etc. however I had no idea about the bogies. In hindsight I should have searched for an alternative but from whom, possibly Bachmann but I doubt if the are available and scrapping a £60+ carriage is not an option.

Tim
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
In hindsight I should have searched for an alternative but from whom

Do not despair. We all go through this when starting out. Only with (long) experience do we begin to learn all the suppliers we can call on.

For example, a quick search on the Wizard Models site brought up three instances of bogie kits for SECR coaches. Link here. There is a whitemetal cast kit, plus two brass and whitemetal kits. As to whether any of them is better than what you already have, I can’t say. I know Roxey has a good reputation, and has been in the business for many years now.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
When you say “flimsy”, do you mean they are weak, or flexible (or both, I guess)?

you can easily stiffen and/or strengthen bogies by adding material (eg solder brass channel under the bolster) where it won’t show, and will have the desired effect, but I wonder whether they are not made a little flexible to provide a degree of compliance (let’s not call it “suspension”) which will make it run more sweetly, and hopefully ensure it stays on. Modification is likely more difficult now you’ve added the w/m detail. Provided they don’t sag when the coach rests on them, they’re strong enough, and I’d leave them alone. I have actually reduced the stiffness of 7mm brass bogies to achieve this effect.

White-metal bogies: I have heard of, but not personally experienced, them deforming over time. This is “creep”, a known phenomenon with a number of metals / alloys. It might be better to stick with brass, though my 12-wheeler (see my workbench thread) has w/m bogies at the moment.

hth
Simon
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Those brass bogies look okay. So long as the sideframes don't splay out, they should suffice. Some people use Bachmann rtr SR Steam bogies.

One difficulty you face is the interior. The turn over at the top of the coach sides means the interior may have to be built into the coach seat by seat. The aluminium roof intrigues me as I thought at first it was the old Wheeltappers roof (originally Peter Chatham). It looks to have no rebates to keep the coach sides apart. Of course any rebate would have to be removed to suit your coach anyway.
 
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