7mm Finney Battle of Britain

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Is the lagging on the pipes of the asbestos bandage painted with white lead variety ? Would strips of masking tape wound round and painted over look right ?

Just an idea, cheers Ian

PS I am glad I choose older and smaller locos, far less pipework. Awesome job there though Mickoo
Thank you,

To be fair I'm only following the yellow brick road ;) Once you work out the layers and which has to go down in which order then it's a simple task of adding it all bit by bit.

Lagging, I was heading that way myself, perhaps some Tamiya narrow masking tape, not checked the texture yet (reel still un-opened). The idea will be to paint it all black and then dry brush the grey colour over the top.

MD
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
One part that I can see that could be fun? is the fireman's fire hole door peddle as it looks to over lap the joint in the cab floor.

Some nice looking work going on here.

OzzyO.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
One part that I can see that could be fun? is the fireman's fire hole door peddle as it looks to over lap the joint in the cab floor.

Some nice looking work going on here.

OzzyO.
Thank you,

You're right, the treadle does overlap the joint and the instructions advise you fit this after the backhead has been fitted inside the cab.
Which means with the original set up, with the backhead floor attached to the frames, you would have to remove it every time you took the body off to get inside.

It was another reason why I modified the build and made the backhead assembly fix to the cab.

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Just for Col and Dave a parting shot of the completed backhead without Bluetak ;)

IMG_8143.jpg

From the previous update 'Toss up between the steam cocks, steam generator or injector pipework next:cool:'

The answer was all three as it turns out, I have to confess to loosing the will to live several times during the week, after the joys of the cab pipework the under cab pipework was a nightmare, principally because some of the pipes only have one point of fixing and it's mid run so the ends are flapping around and prone to damage. It's safe to say every pipe has been off at least once to repair Herr ten thumbs visits and C'tain cock up and his crew have raided the fridge and set up camp for the week!

Never the less after much swearing, screaming and threatening is all succumbed to fit in the right places. To be fair it was never going to be easy, the real engines are a box of snakes under the cab floor for pipework, the model replicates that very well.

Drivers side generator area.

IMG_8153.jpg

A small pipe run but the two large pipes twist and weave under the cab support frame work, due to the lack of support at the rear end I couldn't stop the front from flapping around and this creates a problem where they meet the casing. The resin casing is quite thick 3-4mm and the idea is to trim the pipework to sit flush with the lower edge, of course due to my ineptitude the pipes would not consistently sit flush. In the end I trimmed the inside of the casing to give a very thin edge and made the pipes longer so that they passed up into the casing area....Lesson 1!

Drivers front end.

IMG_8152.jpg

This was actually the last attempt at pipework so out of build sequence, getting the hang of it now, it's very close to the bogie side control spring casting, pleasingly accurate :thumbs: Just need to straighten the drain cock mid pipe clip so that it's nice and square, it's only slid on at the moment.

Back to the cab and the second pipework exercise chronologically.

IMG_8154.jpg

Lot of pipework going on here, plenty of coffee and a bucket of patience, even so, expect the odd joint to fail here and revisit as you fabricate it all up, there is so much interaction going on that each pipe contacts and weaves through others that damage is almost an inevitability. I didn't even attempt to make the pipework sit flush with the casing and simply extended up into the casing area by a 'goodly' amount, I still have to go back and trim the casing edge to get the pipework closer to the outer skin like the prototype engines.

Third attempt was the firemans cylinder drain cocks.

IMG_8155.jpg

Just realized I need to trim the drain cock mid clip as it didn't fold exactly right, mind I have two spare ones on the etch so I'll probably whizz it off and fit a new one.

Checking clearances I noticed that the engine would not go round right hand curves, bit of a problem really, the rear Delta truck was sticking and fouling the pipework.

IMG_8157.jpg

It took a while to work out why, basically the RH side control spring casting is fouling the lower injector pipework and if you look more closely there's a gap between the bearer pad and frame bearer plate, clearly the rear end of the Delta truck is to low.

The Delta truck is essentially a seesaw, so to get the rear end up we can push down on the front, you can just see the extra packing washers, better, but not quite good enough and there's no real room to add more without creating a visual eye sore.

Another solution is to raise the fulcrum point, in this case the axle position, possible, but means reworking the axle retaining clips if I want to preserve easy removal for maintenance.

Of course all this is simply applying larger bandages on the wound and does not solve the fundamental problem, the Delta truck is misshaped.

The fabrication of the Delta truck is by means of a fold up mid section and side pieces, clearly C'tain cock up snuck in and one of the folds is not quite 90° so that when the side pieces went on it all got soldered up slightly bent. In fairness on it's own the truck looks perfect and by eye the slight arch is almost impossible to see, but clearly it is there.

I may be able to tweak the truck, but to get the rear end by 1.0 - 1.5mm will require almost the same downward motion at the front, so instead of an arched mid section truck I'll have a sagging mid section.

The solution is of course a combination of all three, straightening of the truck metal work, packing washers at the front end and a lowering of the axle (jacking of truck assembly), that and the sand pipes will be today's tasks and if there's time left over the fitting of the oil pipes on the front end lubricator pots.

It's also a nice day here so might find time to waft some paint onto so sub assemblies, motion bracket is ready and front end could do with a blow over, but need the oil lines in first really.

Finally, none of the pipework has been cleaned, so y'all can see how much solder I slosh around ;) before spending time cleaning it all up...where required :cool:

Enjoy :thumbs:

MD
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Superb work on the pipework there Mick. I've a sneaking suspicion that I may have bitten off more than I can chew ordering one of these...
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Superb work on the pipework there Mick. I've a sneaking suspicion that I may have bitten off more than I can chew ordering one of these...
No you haven't.

Trust me, if I can do it then so can you, you have the skill set as seen already posted here, all you're lacking is the confidence and self belief and that grows as the build grows.

Where the BLP wins is that the major structures go together very very well, no fiddling with slots, tabs, or getting bits to fit. Other than the cab base width, where I wanted to represent a 9'-0" cab flush with the casing as I couldn't move the resin casing out to match, the rest has been a doozy.

The files have only been used to remove cusps and the other changes have all been personal choice, change of backhead floor fixing and holes there in for the pipes to pass under the floor.

With the rest of the build so easy it leaves you fresh and plenty of time to tackle the really complex bits, the backhead and general pipework, but, if you take your time and work methodically it all falls into place.

One thing to remember with the pipework, it's all general, there is no road map, no diagram, of all the photos I've collected all show pipework that varies in some context or another, simply put, you can't get it wrong, so long as it follows the general path it'll be fine and the real pipework is often beaten to hell so you don't need to make yours machine tool perfect, but then really bent and wriggly looks wrong as well on the model so somewhere in between is just fine.

MD
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Absolutely!

Rebuilt MN if the number is anything to go by, didn't know Colne Valley had one, I was thinking of NVR in previous dialogues.

Certainly interested in a rebuilt MN, shame David had none at Telford and doesn't look like there will be any more.

I'm not a big SR fan certainly other classes but I very very nearly dropped for one of his King Arthur class, the display model held me captivated and I think it's the knowledge that it.... will build easily, all the bits will be fit for purpose, all the castings nice and crisp..... that forms the larger part of the interest than the subject matter it's self.

I bought a DB TRAXX RTR instead and am just as happy with that, but the King Arthur nearly passed over this desk.

What I'd really really like is a good kit for a Schools, not sure what it is about them, they just tick all of the right boxes and a decent N or U class mogul, or any of the big tanks...hmmm seems I like SR more than I care to admit :D

MD
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
It did make me chuckle that there is a VERY small donations box next to the engine...

That's a very big engine to solely rely on a few pennies here and there.. Gotta be a £1M to rebuild that.

JB.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
I'm with you, an N class is certainly on my long term list. The only kit I'm aware of is Dave Andrew's (?). No idea how those rank in the overall kit ranking?
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
It did make me chuckle that there is a VERY small donations box next to the engine...

That's a very big engine to solely rely on a few pennies here and there.. Gotta be a £1M to rebuild that.

JB.
It's getting close to the point where it's almost cheaper to build new than restore and in fairness to Colne valley, they don't really have the facilities for that sort of heavy engineering.

MD
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
I'm with you, an N class is certainly on my long term list. The only kit I'm aware of is Dave Andrew's (?). No idea how those rank in the overall kit ranking?

Hi Chris,

I have built two of David Andrew's 'N' class as well as his Schools, rebuilt WC and Wainwright 'D', all were a pleasure to build the kits went together really well and without much of the usual 'cut and carve' work needed on most other kits and the instructions are very good and easy to follow.

IMG_4462.JPG

31859 hauling 50+ wagons on a certain Mr Waterman's Leamington Spa layout a couple of years ago.

I have also built two of Dave Sharp's MOK Q1s and they are head and shoulders above most other kits on the market and I am looking forward to doing the King Arthur that arrived a couple of weeks ago.

Hurrah for the Southern:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

cheers

Mike
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Well I didn't get done what I wanted, fell down a DB web photo site rabbit hole! Watched the F1 and drank wine.

However I did get the Delta truck sorted and blacken the drivers, after these photos and finally sort out the main frame bearings, I'd opted for insulated horn blocks and they just did not glide smoothly so as a trial a few weeks back I converted the intermediate back to brass and it was much better, the leading and trailing followed today, much better.
Just need to sort a spring retainer cup and a lower stop and they're all done, which basically means the main frames are ready for undercoat.

Anyway the Delta truck.

A single washer up front, slight tweak to the truck plate work and a lowering of the axle and it's pretty good now, the truck looks bent the other way now but that's the camera close up doing that.

IMG_8158.jpg

From above you can see the bend in the injector pipework to clear the side control spring housing, as per 1:1

IMG_8159.jpg

Full deflection, no idea what radius this is, academic really as it's not going to go any tighter, suppose I should really set something less Heath Robinson up, a train set would be good, now there's an idea ;)

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The chassis only views show all the ugly bits you don't see or need to be cleaned up, the two floor extensions and new pipe brackets, required if you opt to fix the backhead floor to the cab as opposed to the designed chassis fitting which is those two smoothed off chassis upstands.

Looking at the photos the chassis needs a very good clean and I suppose I'd better think of a motor and gearbox set up, I've some spares acquired from previous second hand kits since moved on so might trial fit one of them shortly.

MD
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
One big benefit of an original airsmoothed bulleid in 7mm is that there should be no problem finding room for motor gearbox and extra weight! Mind you I've not seen inside the resin body casing to see how much room is left.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Loads of space for a large sound chamber then :thumbs:.
Massive space, 40 x 40 x 200 mm cavity, a low set motor gearbox arrangement will not impinge into that too much, but basically the front third is obstruction free.

I need to make a light blocker for the smoke box interior, it's a big hole when you peer down there and you can clearly see the track below, so a floor and rough blast pipe detail is the plan.
The rear wall will have the speaker in which can be 40 x 40 which should be big enough, maybe two with a base one further back in another sound chamber, not sure as not messed with sound yet.

MD
 
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