Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Yes and no. The ones on etch 015 ( Ithink) are indeed upside down! and overscale too. The ones on the Super detail etch for one arm are much better being to scale and the right way up.
G.W.R. BLT: Almost there.
- Thread starter jonte
- Start date
jonte
Western Thunderer
You’re right, Stephen. It’s indeed etch 0015.
Perhaps I’ve been a little hard on myself
Many thanks for the info.
Jon
Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
Nice work Jon.
Roger
Roger
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Roger, although still making it up as I go ……Nice work Jon.
Roger
‘Old timer’
Jon
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
Glad to say I haven‘t been there and done that, but then I’m yet to build a signal so I’ve got all this to look forward to…..
At least we’re still trying.
John
At least we’re still trying.
John
jonte
Western Thunderer
And ‘it’s’ still ‘trying’ too
I won’t speak too soon, but if I can do it, John, then it’s within the scope of all modellers, and I know from your posts that you’re quite capable of turning your hand to different challenges the hobby throws at us, so I’ve full faith in you when the time comes
I think the main challenge with the signals is that there is such an array of moving parts that you’re never quite certain they will remain so after you’ve shaken a hot iron at them, despite implementing all the precautions and hints you’ve read about, so perhaps the best advice is to order more frets than you think you’ll need. That said, I’ve managed thus far with what I’d ordered but it’s a close run thing!
In truth, I’ve made quite good progress as the other single semaphores are almost painted and just require detailing, but it’s this bracket version which I’ve been putting off as, never having built one before, it was case of where to start and in what order to build it. This was exacerbated somewhat by the fact that buying only the odd fret or two from Wizard, I didn’t really have any step by step instructions to go by, picking up the odd bit of advice from some online instructions they provide relating to other kits. For instance, I started by drilling out the stage for the handrails as I knew that I probably wouldn’t get the drill in once the posts were in place, fair enough; in practice, I soon realised that there were too many stanchions in the ones I’d fabricated as I hadn’t taken into account the proximity of the balance arms to the railings, which in this form, would hinder the movement, so into the bin went those. Here’s a piccie to give you an idea of my ‘no idea’:
Still, the holes in the stage will still come in handy so not a total disaster.
I think, as well, my recent lack,of interest in the project hasnt helped, apart from to prolong the agony somewhat, although the bitesize approach I’ve since adopted has helped in this respect. Still each time I heat up the iron, I lose a little more hair (hope I’m not putting you off, John
).Had another bash today, and managed to build and fit the arms together with their binders, using plenty of oil to prevent gumming up of moving parts, and fag paper spacers as many others have done and which I’m sure you’re aware of
:
I’ve no doubt serious modellers will have apoplexy seeing the finished result (notice the extra wide gap twixt binder and arm for instance to ensure no more obstructions caused by Modelu’s generously proportioned lamps!), but for a model formed of Peco Code 100 track and Ratio’s ubiquitous station building, I don’t think it needs to be, so the only requirement here is that it works.
I really can’t ask any more of it - or any other aspect of the build - than this
Thanks once again for your interest, John.
Jon
Attachments
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
One point to note that the etch does not include the platform surface, which was of wooden planks. Here is one I did some time ago. There is quite a good photo in Adrian Vaughans book, which shows this and other details. Fortunately you may still be able to add it using thin strips.And ‘it’s’ still ‘trying’ too
I won’t speak too soon, but if I can do it, John, then it’s within the scope of all modellers, and I know from your posts that you’re quite capable of turning your hand to different challenges the hobby throws at us, so I’ve full faith in you when the time comes
I think the main challenge with the signals is that there is such an array of moving parts that you’re never quite certain they will remain so after you’ve shaken a hot iron at them, despite implementing all the precautions and hints you’ve read about, so perhaps the best advice is to order more frets than you think you’ll need. That said, I’ve managed thus far with what I’d ordered but it’s a close run thing!
In truth, I’ve made quite good progress as the other single semaphores are almost painted and just require detailing, but it’s this bracket version which I’ve been putting off as, never having built one before, it was case of where to start and in what order to build it. This was exacerbated somewhat by the fact that buying only the odd fret or two from Wizard, I didn’t really have any step by step instructions to go by, picking up the odd bit of advice from some online instructions they provide relating to other kits. For instance, I started by drilling out the stage for the handrails as I knew that I probably wouldn’t get the drill in once the posts were in place, fair enough; in practice, I soon realised that there were too many stanchions in the ones I’d fabricated as I hadn’t taken into account the proximity of the balance arms to the railings, which in this form, would hinder the movement, so into the bin went those. Here’s a piccie to give you an idea of my ‘no idea’:
View attachment 193034
Still, the holes in the stage will still come in handy so not a total disaster.
I think, as well, my recent lack,of interest in the project hasnt helped, apart from to prolong the agony somewhat, although the bitesize approach I’ve since adopted has helped in this respect. Still each time I heat up the iron, I lose a little more hair (hope I’m not putting you off, John
Had another bash today, and managed to build and fit the arms together with their binders, using plenty of oil to prevent gumming up of moving parts, and fag paper spacers as many others have done and which I’m sure you’re aware of
View attachment 193033
I’ve no doubt serious modellers will have apoplexy seeing the finished result (notice the extra wide gap twixt binder and arm for instance to ensure no more obstructions caused by Modelu’s generously proportioned lamps!), but for a model formed of Peco Code 100 track and Ratio’s ubiquitous station building, I don’t think it needs to be, so the only requirement here is that it works.
I really can’t ask any more of it - or any other aspect of the build - than this
Thanks once again for your interest, John.
Jon
Last edited:
jonte
Western Thunderer
And exemplary too, Stephen, so thank you for posting.
I doubt mine will be anywhere near as accurate but thank you for doing so as it gives me some idea as to how it should be done and where bits and pieces should go
Thanks also for pointing me in the direction of Adrian’s book, although I’ll just use several photos I’ve found online for guidance in this respect.
If you notice the picture of the handrail construction attempt in my previous post, it had been my intention to place some thin veneer I’m intending to use for the flooring onto the graph paper guide and drill at the same time, removing it before scribing on some planks, but the realisation that the stanchions weren’t going to work in their present positions saw me moving on, with the usual ‘I’ll come back to that’ approach
Heigh Ho……
Next, cranks. Oh what fun……..
Jon
Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
Jon, I have every admiration for your fine efforts and sustained struggle with signals. I must, however, confess that if it were me I would have given up on the grounds of retaining my sanity......... Notwithstanding, I know you will carry on and ultimately triumph so every best wish for your persisting to pursue perfection. Dare I say that you are making a signal effort !
Roger
(Last heard of as being in hiding......
)
. Notwithstanding, I know you will carry on and ultimately triumph so every best wish for your persisting to pursue perfection. Dare I say that you are making a signal effort !Roger
(Last heard of as being in hiding......
)
jonte
Western Thunderer
Jon, I have every admiration for your fine efforts and sustained struggle with signals. I must, however, confess that if it were me I would have given up on the grounds of retaining my sanity........
Roger
(Last heard of as being in hiding......
I think the phrase, Roger, is ‘I’ve started so I’ll…..’. Perhaps best not to finish that sentence
Many thanks, Roger, for your continued interest, written as always in the style of the Bard
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
It’s been twenty four hours of one step forward, two back with the build.
In connecting up the ‘rodding’ from the respective balance arm to the crank of the backing signal, the balance arm decided to part company with the post. The springing of even 0.3mm wire had far more potential energy than I’d bargained for!
Those instructions I mentioned last time advised drilling through the posts to accommodate the axle of the fixing, which is then soldered to the rear of the post. The problem was two-fold: the drills used were too wide as the appropriate sizes had broken during construction 0.3s, 0.4s etc - I was worried here that the larger hole would allow the ingress of too much solder with the potential to seize up the moving parts of the balance arm towards the front of the post - and the 18W iron was way too light in hindsight. Problem here was that I was too concerned that multi moving parts would clog up with the 80W, and other aspects already in place might have been disjointed. In practise, this hasn’t been the case, but waving a gemmy-like, red hot iron around parts in close proximity is always a concern - as I later discovered…..
Anyway, after a last ditch attempt with superglue to reattach the fixing late last night failed, a plan to clean up and start again this morning was made. Long story short: after several failed attempts with the 18W yet again earlier today, the 80W was waved in anger once more, and despite immense pain to my clamp like fingers, the sense of relief when a firm bond was achieved was overwhelming. To celebrate, I treated myself to attaching the wire from crank to balance arm - another fiddle - and was as pleased as Punch when remote control of balance arm was achieved via movement of crank.
Then it was on to the Home starter. But this 0.3mm wire is powerful stuff it seems as in the process of fitting it, the balance arm fixing came adrift on this side too. I wouldn’t mind, but I was working outside and had cleared everything away after resolving the same issue earlier. Never mind, this time I had an inkling of what to do. I think the process of having to oil all moving parts with a needle dipped in 3 in one, prior to soldering to stop the gumming up of moving parts, makes it all the more protracted which only adds to the frustration, especially when one considers that too much oil ensures that solder won’t stick to the bits you want it to.
Anyway, after gathering together all the necessary odds n sods with which to carry out the task yet again, I began to painfully reattach the second fixing. However, as mentioned, it’s difficult to wave an 80W iron around with the required dexterity necessary when you’re trying to hold hot bits together with melting pinkies, long enough to achieve a successful bond, whilst also trying to successfully navigate it away from the piece without striking something else; which is what happened, causing the tube -securing the backing signal crank axle to the gantry on that side too - to become detached. As it hung limply from the wire I’d only just fixed onto it and the balance arm (with great difficulty I might add) I just wanted to crush the whole thing underfoot……..
Then reattaching it with the 80W, my worst fears were realised when a large hiss bore witness to the washer at the end firmly attaching itself to the end of the brass tube in which the axle was to swivel: seized it solid! Consequently, another tube had to be cut, a crank drilled to the required size before reattaching to a new axle and worst of all, the discovery that I’d have to get out the piercing saw to fabricate a makeshift washer as I’d used them all up was really the last straw.
Anyway, as I write, I’m pretty much back to where I started, although the backing signal rod can wait for now. Thankfully I can report that the home starter rod is fitted and working, and everything that should be, is now completely solid.
A battle hard fought, but we’re getting there:
Thank goodness the day’s over.
Apologies for the out of focus shot but it gives an idea of where I’m at.
jonte
In connecting up the ‘rodding’ from the respective balance arm to the crank of the backing signal, the balance arm decided to part company with the post. The springing of even 0.3mm wire had far more potential energy than I’d bargained for!
Those instructions I mentioned last time advised drilling through the posts to accommodate the axle of the fixing, which is then soldered to the rear of the post. The problem was two-fold: the drills used were too wide as the appropriate sizes had broken during construction 0.3s, 0.4s etc - I was worried here that the larger hole would allow the ingress of too much solder with the potential to seize up the moving parts of the balance arm towards the front of the post - and the 18W iron was way too light in hindsight. Problem here was that I was too concerned that multi moving parts would clog up with the 80W, and other aspects already in place might have been disjointed. In practise, this hasn’t been the case, but waving a gemmy-like, red hot iron around parts in close proximity is always a concern - as I later discovered…..
Anyway, after a last ditch attempt with superglue to reattach the fixing late last night failed, a plan to clean up and start again this morning was made. Long story short: after several failed attempts with the 18W yet again earlier today, the 80W was waved in anger once more, and despite immense pain to my clamp like fingers, the sense of relief when a firm bond was achieved was overwhelming. To celebrate, I treated myself to attaching the wire from crank to balance arm - another fiddle - and was as pleased as Punch when remote control of balance arm was achieved via movement of crank.
Then it was on to the Home starter. But this 0.3mm wire is powerful stuff it seems as in the process of fitting it, the balance arm fixing came adrift on this side too. I wouldn’t mind, but I was working outside and had cleared everything away after resolving the same issue earlier. Never mind, this time I had an inkling of what to do. I think the process of having to oil all moving parts with a needle dipped in 3 in one, prior to soldering to stop the gumming up of moving parts, makes it all the more protracted which only adds to the frustration, especially when one considers that too much oil ensures that solder won’t stick to the bits you want it to.
Anyway, after gathering together all the necessary odds n sods with which to carry out the task yet again, I began to painfully reattach the second fixing. However, as mentioned, it’s difficult to wave an 80W iron around with the required dexterity necessary when you’re trying to hold hot bits together with melting pinkies, long enough to achieve a successful bond, whilst also trying to successfully navigate it away from the piece without striking something else; which is what happened, causing the tube -securing the backing signal crank axle to the gantry on that side too - to become detached. As it hung limply from the wire I’d only just fixed onto it and the balance arm (with great difficulty I might add) I just wanted to crush the whole thing underfoot……..
Then reattaching it with the 80W, my worst fears were realised when a large hiss bore witness to the washer at the end firmly attaching itself to the end of the brass tube in which the axle was to swivel: seized it solid! Consequently, another tube had to be cut, a crank drilled to the required size before reattaching to a new axle and worst of all, the discovery that I’d have to get out the piercing saw to fabricate a makeshift washer as I’d used them all up was really the last straw.
Anyway, as I write, I’m pretty much back to where I started, although the backing signal rod can wait for now. Thankfully I can report that the home starter rod is fitted and working, and everything that should be, is now completely solid.
A battle hard fought, but we’re getting there:
Thank goodness the day’s over.
Apologies for the out of focus shot but it gives an idea of where I’m at.
jonte
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
Phew! I’m exhausted after just reading that, you carried me along with you.
onwards!
John
onwards!
John
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Rather than try to use oil to stop things seizing up, it's much better to use paper as a sort of washer, cigarette paper is probably best but ordinary 80gsm etc works just as well. Just remove the paper afterwards!
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hello @Stephen Freeman ,
I've been following Jonte's trial and tribulations wrt signals, and your support to him. Interested as I am in some aspects of signalling, I clicked on the tracknsignals link in your signature. And it took me to the defunct(?) borg-rail address; which seems to be populated by Chinese characters (type not fictional) now. Is it just me?
Cheers
Jan
I've been following Jonte's trial and tribulations wrt signals, and your support to him. Interested as I am in some aspects of signalling, I clicked on the tracknsignals link in your signature. And it took me to the defunct(?) borg-rail address; which seems to be populated by Chinese characters (type not fictional) now. Is it just me?
Cheers
Jan
David Waite
Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte
When I was making the spring assembly area for the catch rods on the Lever-frame I used aluminium foil the type you use for cooking it’s very thin, solder doesn’t stick to it and it can be doubled up for different clearances and can also be used to protect other areas that you don’t want flux splatter on.
David
When I was making the spring assembly area for the catch rods on the Lever-frame I used aluminium foil the type you use for cooking it’s very thin, solder doesn’t stick to it and it can be doubled up for different clearances and can also be used to protect other areas that you don’t want flux splatter on.
David
Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
Jon,
Would fine tweezers be an option for holding things and preventing visits to the Burns Unit ?
Roger
Would fine tweezers be an option for holding things and preventing visits to the Burns Unit ?
Roger
jonte
Western Thunderer
Apologies, John.
Last thing I wanted to do is burden anybody else with my woes
Was simply going to write: ‘it works!’, but something came over me and I couldn’t stop……..
Thanks anyway, John, for bearing with it
Jon
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Thanks for letting me know, I have updated the link, so it should work OK, the old site was getting too expensive to keep, and I had already updated the current one to be more friendly to mobile devices, just forgot to alter the Western Thunder link. Should all be OK now but you might need to do a refresh,
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Stephen, but I used fag paper doused in oil as well as adding oil to the works as belt n braces.
At least it works most of the time
Jon