Heljan Hymek O Gauge

nascar24

nascar24

Active Member
Hi,

I bought a blue syp Hymek recently and when running the fan is noisy, is this a common fault?. Also when assembled the lights dont seem to work but when I removed the body  they light up ok  but one red lamp seems to a larger led than the rest why is that? also there seems to be a clear lamp casing which fell out from somewhere

Regards

Alan
 
westernfan

westernfan

Western Thunderer
hi the clear lamp casing  push fits over the led which then push fits into the body  . re the fan issue its a common fault  :headbang:i disconnected my fan
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
I put a bit of white grease on the worm/gear on the fan, which helps a bit with the noise. To run it in, disconnect it from the PCB and feed it directly from the controller by itself for a while.

Sounds like a loose connection on the lights, and one LED must be pushed into it's housing further than the others to be brighter?

I also wired my motors in series to slow it down a bit and try and balance out the running, as there was a 'surge' at slow speeds with one motor starting before the other.
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Jordan said:
I
I also wired my motors in series to slow it down a bit and try and balance out the running, as there was a 'surge' at slow speeds with one motor starting before the other.
Click to expand...
Hi Jordan :wave:

I heard of someone else doing this  :scratch: , Any idea how much it has reduced the current draw......... if at all ? ( as Cynric once pointed out, if you crank a Heljan up the street lights go dim  ;D ) & has it smoothed out the running ?

Cheers Phill  :thumbs:
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
CME & Bottlewasher said:
I have a lot to learn about electrics, yet I understand that it brings better slow running yet knocks down the top speed, which would be ideal for our trunk line.... :scratch:
Click to expand...
Yes it does, a better crawl but slower top speed; not a problem on a Shunty-plank like mine. I haven't got any way of measuring the values though. All I can say is that 'before' the Hymek used to start & run waaaay before my Class 22 would (also wired in series)... couple the two up and the Hymek would just drag the 22, nearly pulling the drawbar out fully in the process! Now with them  both wired in series they lash-up much better - still not perfectly matched, but close enough.
Also the re-wire has improved, but not totally cured, the crawling 'surge'. I even took out the gears from one bogie to see if that would help, but of course one motor alone didn't improve the slow speed, and traction was an issue. Leaving the second motor wired in meant but not 'geared' meant that because it had no load, it started & span much faster than the motor doing the work, so that was no good either... ::) :headbang:
Wiring in series has been the best option short of finding motors that are perfectly matched to each other...
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
CME & Bottlewasher said:
Hi Phill :wave:

Didnt we all chat about this before - I read an article in RM about it.

I have a lot to learn about electrics, yet I understand that it brings better slow running yet knocks down the top speed, which would be ideal for our trunk line.... :scratch:

All the best,

CME :wave:
Click to expand...
Yes we did, but I'm still not 100% clear on this interesting issue ..................doh  ;D, most of my kit built loco's have 2 wires & no pick ups , which is maybe my wiring knowledges limit (but I'm willing to learn) :scratch: ;D
 
nascar24

nascar24

Active Member
Jordan said:
I put a bit of white grease on the worm/gear on the fan, which helps a bit with the noise. To run it in, disconnect it from the PCB and feed it directly from the controller by itself for a while.

Sounds like a loose connection on the lights, and one LED must be pushed into it's housing further than the others to be brighter?

I also wired my motors in series to slow it down a bit and try and balance out the running, as there was a 'surge' at slow speeds with one motor starting before the other.
Click to expand...
On further examination [it was getting late when i looked at it] someone has broken the lamp housing at the shoulder, this I have meked together and is ok. The fan has a plastic gear which is quite flimsy on its shaft, I have tried aralditing it on and will have to see it that helps. White grease?, what is that??. I am partially spraying it to one of the blue cab surround variants [D7051]  and will weather it as well. Have ordered the raised numbers plus works plates from SevernMillPlates, anyone else used them?.Also bought a Heljan two tone green with syp Cl.47 on Ebay, Buy It Now for ?275, it is as new which I think is a good price, this in turn will get numbered D1925 and weathered.

Alan
 
westernfan

westernfan

Western Thunderer
nascar24 said:
Have ordered the raised numbers plus works plates from SevernMillPlates, anyone else used them?

Alan
Click to expand...

HI Alan . I got a set from smp for my hymek so far ive only fitted the builders plates but the numbers are very good and fit over the originals perfectly .

Howes are very helpful If you need spare parts for your Heljan

Chris
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Does anyone produce the Hymek numbers in the correct thickness yet ?, I have Shawplan & Prestiges ones which are too thin  :scratch:

Phill
 
iploffy

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
I am sure I read somewhere that if you double the numbers up i.e put them on top of each other (not add them together Marsa or Keep up at the back Jordan)the correct thickness can be obtained

Ian
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
iploffy said:
I am sure I read somewhere that if you double the numbers up i.e put them on top of each other (not add them together Marsa or Keep up at the back Jordan)the correct thickness can be obtained

Ian
Click to expand...

:scratch: Ah yes but tight arse's like me then have to buy two sets  :eek: ;D.............I think I will end up having to do that (Mr Tigerviking did that to very good effect) :bowdown:
 
westernfan

westernfan

Western Thunderer
I will dig my severnmil numbers out and measure them but i think they are approx .75mm and made from ns by the looks re the cost the set including the works plates are ?10
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
westernfan said:
I will dig my severnmil numbers out and measure them but i think they are approx .75mm and made from ns by the looks re the cost the set including the works plates are ?10
Click to expand...
Cheers , that's quite good with the works plates included  :thumbs:
 
marsa69

marsa69

Western Thunderer
I am sure I read somewhere that if you double the numbers up i.e put them on top of each other (not add them together Marsa or Keep up at the back Jordan)the correct thickness can be obtained
Click to expand...

What?  ::)
 
Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
iploffy said:
I am sure I read somewhere that if you double the numbers up i.e put them on top of each other (not add them together Marsa or Keep up at the back Jordan )the correct thickness can be obtained

Ian
Click to expand...
Yeah, but what a palaver... and what are the chances of ham-fisted solderers like me getting them lined up exactly..?? They're small and fiddley enough as it is...  :shit:
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
CME & Bottlewasher said:
Hi Jordan :wave:

+ 1 mate + 1 :headbang: :headbang: :))

CME :wave:
Click to expand...

The idea is to glue them together I think, but even so they are very fiddly, I have just been putting some on myself  :headbang: & that's only single thickness...........I might try doubling them up on one of my Hymeks when I'm feeling brave enough  ;D
 
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