Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Or abandoned on the ground in Malago Sidings.
7mm On Heather's Workbench - raising the Standard
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
-
- Tags
- coaches jltrt mk1 coaches
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Bob,
Caught up with this over the last couple of hours. Here's a shot of a Bulleid carriage on the Bluebell, gangway cover to the fore...: http://www.bluebellrailway.co.uk/bluebell/pics/1456.HTML
And here's a Maunsell carriage, similarly equipped: http://www.bluebellrailway.co.uk/bluebell/pics/6686.html
Steph
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
It's been slow progress. Although the coaches are almost complete now, there are some fiddly bits that I still have to do. Tables, for example.
The TSO has these natty brass tables. I left them out until the last minute, because I wasn't sure about relying on the fixing, and I was wondering which adhesive might work the best.
The top of the table was originally going to be a pale grey, but I eventually went for a darker shade. The edges were picked out in brown, as was the support leg. There's no instruction on how to make the bends, so I had to adjust them several times. Even now the inner end is a little high.
Fitting the roofs properly was next. For some reason, the TSO roof kept pushing the body ends out, so I spent a good deal of time scraping and fettling to get things to fit neatly. The sides and ends were on and off the coach several times, too. I ended up grinding away nearly a millimetre from the rebate inside each roof moulding so it slotted down without bearing on the ends. Of course, despite my best efforts, most of the shavings went all over the insides of the coach! Lots of brushing and blowing to get the miscreants out again, before the roof was fitted properly.
Juggling the fixing bolts, fishing for the embedded nuts tried my patience - it always does, frankly - but I got there in the end. I attacked the location under the coach floor with the grinding tool to give a bit more rebate and clearance for the head of the bolt from the wheel flanges. Looking through the TSO windows, it appeared the floor had developed a bulge, and one vestibule partition was definitely looking out of shape. It seems the roof was bearing down on one or two of the partitions, so off it came again, and I clipped the corners of the partitions to give clearance.
Finally, I was happy with the fit of the roofs on both coaches. As far as I'm concerned, they're now fitted and won't be coming off again. Oh, I forgot to mention how I glued the tables in: Hafixs cyano. Only one table came adrift during handling, which was handy.
Here's a view into the TSO, looking at the partition that divides off the non-smoking section to the right. It looks quite cosy, I think.
Don't mention the bolt through the seat. I did once, but I think I got away with it.
The other end fixing isn't quite so obvious, tucked in against the toilet compartment.
The grilles in the BSK look the part. All the handling so far, unfortunately, has damaged some of the lining, so there will need to be some more remedial work done before I'm happy.
The list of things to do before I begin the final quality control checks is getting shorter. The vac and steam heat hoses have been fitted, but still to do are the toilet fillers and end handrails, all the door and commode handles, and the footboards, plus the chalk plates on the van doors. I keep thinking about pipe clips, but I think that's a step too far for this build. Perhaps that'll be something for the next Mk1 I tackle.
Here's the styrene end board, with thanks to Mr Parkins for the leg-up from the RMB kit. It needs a tail lamp, but that's for the client to provide, I think. Oh, yes, and weathering. I will get to it soon, I promise.
The TSO has these natty brass tables. I left them out until the last minute, because I wasn't sure about relying on the fixing, and I was wondering which adhesive might work the best.
The top of the table was originally going to be a pale grey, but I eventually went for a darker shade. The edges were picked out in brown, as was the support leg. There's no instruction on how to make the bends, so I had to adjust them several times. Even now the inner end is a little high.
Fitting the roofs properly was next. For some reason, the TSO roof kept pushing the body ends out, so I spent a good deal of time scraping and fettling to get things to fit neatly. The sides and ends were on and off the coach several times, too. I ended up grinding away nearly a millimetre from the rebate inside each roof moulding so it slotted down without bearing on the ends. Of course, despite my best efforts, most of the shavings went all over the insides of the coach! Lots of brushing and blowing to get the miscreants out again, before the roof was fitted properly.
Juggling the fixing bolts, fishing for the embedded nuts tried my patience - it always does, frankly - but I got there in the end. I attacked the location under the coach floor with the grinding tool to give a bit more rebate and clearance for the head of the bolt from the wheel flanges. Looking through the TSO windows, it appeared the floor had developed a bulge, and one vestibule partition was definitely looking out of shape. It seems the roof was bearing down on one or two of the partitions, so off it came again, and I clipped the corners of the partitions to give clearance.
Finally, I was happy with the fit of the roofs on both coaches. As far as I'm concerned, they're now fitted and won't be coming off again. Oh, I forgot to mention how I glued the tables in: Hafixs cyano. Only one table came adrift during handling, which was handy.
Here's a view into the TSO, looking at the partition that divides off the non-smoking section to the right. It looks quite cosy, I think.
Don't mention the bolt through the seat. I did once, but I think I got away with it.
The other end fixing isn't quite so obvious, tucked in against the toilet compartment.
The grilles in the BSK look the part. All the handling so far, unfortunately, has damaged some of the lining, so there will need to be some more remedial work done before I'm happy.
The list of things to do before I begin the final quality control checks is getting shorter. The vac and steam heat hoses have been fitted, but still to do are the toilet fillers and end handrails, all the door and commode handles, and the footboards, plus the chalk plates on the van doors. I keep thinking about pipe clips, but I think that's a step too far for this build. Perhaps that'll be something for the next Mk1 I tackle.
Here's the styrene end board, with thanks to Mr Parkins for the leg-up from the RMB kit. It needs a tail lamp, but that's for the client to provide, I think. Oh, yes, and weathering. I will get to it soon, I promise.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Handrails have been the order of the day.
In the spirit of trying to improve the models each time I tackle one of these kits, I wanted to try to replicate the fixings for the end handrail/fillers better than I've managed before. The upper bracket is actually welded to the handrail. In the past, I formed a bracket shaped roughly correctly, with a hole in it for the handrail to pass through. I thought I could do better.
The preformed holes for the handrails are in the wrong places, well, at least as far as the upper bracket is concerned. You can see the original hole showing white in this picture. The bottom brackets are flattened 0.9mm wire, leaving the round wire to go into the hole. The handrail is formed by offering up the wire and bending until it it fits. A little laborious, but it's the only reliable way to form the complex curves.
The upper brackets are lengths of 0.7mm wire, bent at the end, then filed flat and tinned. Once the handrail is fitted, a small flat section was filed where it met the top bracket. Carefully holding both items in contact, with a drop of solder paste, a brief touch with the iron fitted with a fine tip makes the joint.
Happily, it worked. One happy Hev.
Here's things once blackened and painted. I will have to fill the incorrect hole, and it looks like the top bracket here has moved. That'll have to be repaired.
Anyway, the TSO now has footboards. I'll document how I fit the BSK boards to show how I overcome the standard JLTRT butt-joint fixing method.
Once the footboards are done, it's all the brass handle work to do, non-smoking transfers to apply, final paint and transfer repairs, and then some subtle weathering. Nearly there.
In the spirit of trying to improve the models each time I tackle one of these kits, I wanted to try to replicate the fixings for the end handrail/fillers better than I've managed before. The upper bracket is actually welded to the handrail. In the past, I formed a bracket shaped roughly correctly, with a hole in it for the handrail to pass through. I thought I could do better.
The preformed holes for the handrails are in the wrong places, well, at least as far as the upper bracket is concerned. You can see the original hole showing white in this picture. The bottom brackets are flattened 0.9mm wire, leaving the round wire to go into the hole. The handrail is formed by offering up the wire and bending until it it fits. A little laborious, but it's the only reliable way to form the complex curves.
The upper brackets are lengths of 0.7mm wire, bent at the end, then filed flat and tinned. Once the handrail is fitted, a small flat section was filed where it met the top bracket. Carefully holding both items in contact, with a drop of solder paste, a brief touch with the iron fitted with a fine tip makes the joint.
Happily, it worked. One happy Hev.
Here's things once blackened and painted. I will have to fill the incorrect hole, and it looks like the top bracket here has moved. That'll have to be repaired.
Anyway, the TSO now has footboards. I'll document how I fit the BSK boards to show how I overcome the standard JLTRT butt-joint fixing method.
Once the footboards are done, it's all the brass handle work to do, non-smoking transfers to apply, final paint and transfer repairs, and then some subtle weathering. Nearly there.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Fitting the footboards.
In previous builds, for Richard Carr, I've used copperclad strip to make the footboards at his request. The idea is the strip, with soldered wire pins, is more robust than the glue-it-to-the-solebar-and-pray method that seems to be the JLTRT idea.
These are the JLTRT steps. They fold in half, with little folded up cleats designed to be glued straight to the solebar of the coach. Presumably, these also represent the brackets used on the real thing. I cleaned up and chemically blackened the outside of the etched steps before removing them from the fret.
Using a triangular file, I open up the half-etch a little, then fold the steps as far as possible with my Hold'n'Fold.
Some gentle persuasion with the hide mallet finishes the fold.
I then solder short lengths of 0.7mm brass wire on the bottom side. I line up the pegs with the brackets, but only use two pegs per board. There's no real need to use more.
Here, I am offering up the step board for a pair of the luggage section doors. I mark the position of the left peg with a pencil.
I measure about 1.5mm from the bottom of the solebar, and use a sharp point to centre-punch for the drill.
I drill right through the solebar with a 0.7mm drill.
I can insert the step's left peg into the hole, and then use the right peg to gently scratch where the right peg will line up. Measuring up the 1.5mm, the hole can be centre-punched and drilled.
Rinse and repeat for every step board on the coach. A drop of cyano on each peg holds things in place, followed by a coat of paint.
All the step boards are done now. As you can see, I have also painted the chalkboards on the BSK. Just the brass door furniture and the non-smoking transfers, paint and transfer retouching and the final weathering to go.
In previous builds, for Richard Carr, I've used copperclad strip to make the footboards at his request. The idea is the strip, with soldered wire pins, is more robust than the glue-it-to-the-solebar-and-pray method that seems to be the JLTRT idea.
These are the JLTRT steps. They fold in half, with little folded up cleats designed to be glued straight to the solebar of the coach. Presumably, these also represent the brackets used on the real thing. I cleaned up and chemically blackened the outside of the etched steps before removing them from the fret.
Using a triangular file, I open up the half-etch a little, then fold the steps as far as possible with my Hold'n'Fold.
Some gentle persuasion with the hide mallet finishes the fold.
I then solder short lengths of 0.7mm brass wire on the bottom side. I line up the pegs with the brackets, but only use two pegs per board. There's no real need to use more.
Here, I am offering up the step board for a pair of the luggage section doors. I mark the position of the left peg with a pencil.
I measure about 1.5mm from the bottom of the solebar, and use a sharp point to centre-punch for the drill.
I drill right through the solebar with a 0.7mm drill.
I can insert the step's left peg into the hole, and then use the right peg to gently scratch where the right peg will line up. Measuring up the 1.5mm, the hole can be centre-punched and drilled.
Rinse and repeat for every step board on the coach. A drop of cyano on each peg holds things in place, followed by a coat of paint.
All the step boards are done now. As you can see, I have also painted the chalkboards on the BSK. Just the brass door furniture and the non-smoking transfers, paint and transfer retouching and the final weathering to go.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,
Great work
.
I,ve noticed the C1 restriction transfers on the end of the coach seem to be in white. If they are white who's are they?.
I need some for my blue/grey stock although the MRS ones are yellowy/cream colour for other liveries not blue/grey and the blue/grey sheet only have C1 and not the restriction wording.
Rob
Great work
.I,ve noticed the C1 restriction transfers on the end of the coach seem to be in white. If they are white who's are they?.
I need some for my blue/grey stock although the MRS ones are yellowy/cream colour for other liveries not blue/grey and the blue/grey sheet only have C1 and not the restriction wording.
Rob
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob
The transfers are actually cream, but Fox do make a nearly white version. Sheet FRH 7028/2 is the one I have here. It includes the "old gold"/orangey yellow class markers and various maximum load lettering things for brake vans.
The transfers are actually cream, but Fox do make a nearly white version. Sheet FRH 7028/2 is the one I have here. It includes the "old gold"/orangey yellow class markers and various maximum load lettering things for brake vans.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Right, on with the weathering.
I have spent a good deal of time thinking about how to weather these coaches. The original client brief was for the finish to be "slightly tired", which I take to mean just a light weathering overall, rather than completely covered in grunge.
I started with a study of as many colour images of coaches I could find to get an idea of the general pattern of weathering of in-service vehicles. From what I can glean, the body sides were kept fairly clean, either washed down manually with a mop and bucket or through a mechanical cleaning plant. Grime would accumulate in nooks and crannies, around hinges and handles, essentially where whatever cleaning system that was used failed to clean. Underframes and roofs, of course, got pretty filthy. A combination of rail dirt, brake dust and general grease and grime soon caked the underparts and bogies, while the roof was fair game for anything deposited from above.
The Mk1 carmine and cream was susceptible to fading due to cleaning chemicals, and also failed to protect the steel bodywork from the elements as well as might have been hoped. Various causes for the onset of corrosion and paint damage were found, which led to better paint technologies and better methods of application, but I digress.
So, the finish I am looking for is coaches that have been in service since new for about five or six years. They've been through the regular maintenance and perhaps general overhaul, but otherwise have been earning their keep on a steam-hauled railway to points west from Paddington.
I also read and re-read Martyn Welch's bible on the subject, The Art of Weathering, which gave me some clues as to techniques I could use.
I am not confident with airbrushing for weathering. I feel I should get that out there right away. I have used the technique, but not recently. My worry is always I would make a mess, and I spent some time considering how I might have to mask off the sides to spray muck up the ends of the coaches. Add to this the fact the temperature in the loft workshop is not conducive to airbrushing, plus the faff of mixing and thinning before I even start, I decided to try just good old dry brushing instead. All excuses, meaning I should really get some old coach sides and practice the technique. Consider that added to my to-do list.
I used my well-worn aluminium foil pie dish, splodged some matt black, earth brown and orangey brown enamels into it with some thinners, and mixed things roughly much as an artist does with a palette of oils. Using a No10 sable flat brush, I loaded it and took a wodge of plain kitchen towel, and first squeezed most of the paint out of the brush. I then wiped even more off the brush until almost nothing was being left with each stroke. I then set about the solebar and underframe areas. I built up the colour slowly until I felt confident in my technique. The secret, really, is knowing when to stop.
If I felt I'd overdone things, I added more black into the mix, and went over the areas again to tone them back down again.
The bogies need more work than the underframe. To begin with, I did the basic dry-brush of the grunge colour, but only really to highlight raised detail. Once the paint is dry, more attention will be paid to areas of rust and oil to bring the detail out properly.
Next I tried the ends.
With lots of handrails and raised detail on them, the ends posed a bit of a problem for dry-brushing. I wanted to try to get an even coat of dirt up the ends, which would match what I'd seen in the prototype photos. Where I could, I brushed downwards to give an impression of rainwater running down through the dirt. I had to revert to a smaller flat brush to get into some nooks, but I think the overall effect is what I hoped to achieve, though not quite as even as it could be. The passenger end of the BSK seems a little overdone, so I'll revisit that and see if I can either tone the effect down, or match the other end to it. I might well have to break out the airbrush to give an even tone after all.
That's as far as I've got with the BSK. I'm working under artificial light, so I before I do anything else I'll wait for daylight and have a really critical look at things.
Next up, the roof, and then I'll tackle some mild weathering on the sides.
Incidentally, dust is really, really annoying me.
You can see specks adhering to the inside of the windows, even though I have blown and brushed the interiors until I'm blue in the face. Where does it come from? I'm considering an investment in one of those silly PC keyboard vacuum cleaners to aid with dust removal, because I'm getting more than a bit narked at being laughed at from behind sealed windows by specks of white dust! 
I have spent a good deal of time thinking about how to weather these coaches. The original client brief was for the finish to be "slightly tired", which I take to mean just a light weathering overall, rather than completely covered in grunge.
I started with a study of as many colour images of coaches I could find to get an idea of the general pattern of weathering of in-service vehicles. From what I can glean, the body sides were kept fairly clean, either washed down manually with a mop and bucket or through a mechanical cleaning plant. Grime would accumulate in nooks and crannies, around hinges and handles, essentially where whatever cleaning system that was used failed to clean. Underframes and roofs, of course, got pretty filthy. A combination of rail dirt, brake dust and general grease and grime soon caked the underparts and bogies, while the roof was fair game for anything deposited from above.
The Mk1 carmine and cream was susceptible to fading due to cleaning chemicals, and also failed to protect the steel bodywork from the elements as well as might have been hoped. Various causes for the onset of corrosion and paint damage were found, which led to better paint technologies and better methods of application, but I digress.
So, the finish I am looking for is coaches that have been in service since new for about five or six years. They've been through the regular maintenance and perhaps general overhaul, but otherwise have been earning their keep on a steam-hauled railway to points west from Paddington.
I also read and re-read Martyn Welch's bible on the subject, The Art of Weathering, which gave me some clues as to techniques I could use.
I am not confident with airbrushing for weathering. I feel I should get that out there right away. I have used the technique, but not recently. My worry is always I would make a mess, and I spent some time considering how I might have to mask off the sides to spray muck up the ends of the coaches. Add to this the fact the temperature in the loft workshop is not conducive to airbrushing, plus the faff of mixing and thinning before I even start, I decided to try just good old dry brushing instead. All excuses, meaning I should really get some old coach sides and practice the technique. Consider that added to my to-do list.
I used my well-worn aluminium foil pie dish, splodged some matt black, earth brown and orangey brown enamels into it with some thinners, and mixed things roughly much as an artist does with a palette of oils. Using a No10 sable flat brush, I loaded it and took a wodge of plain kitchen towel, and first squeezed most of the paint out of the brush. I then wiped even more off the brush until almost nothing was being left with each stroke. I then set about the solebar and underframe areas. I built up the colour slowly until I felt confident in my technique. The secret, really, is knowing when to stop.
If I felt I'd overdone things, I added more black into the mix, and went over the areas again to tone them back down again.
The bogies need more work than the underframe. To begin with, I did the basic dry-brush of the grunge colour, but only really to highlight raised detail. Once the paint is dry, more attention will be paid to areas of rust and oil to bring the detail out properly.
Next I tried the ends.
With lots of handrails and raised detail on them, the ends posed a bit of a problem for dry-brushing. I wanted to try to get an even coat of dirt up the ends, which would match what I'd seen in the prototype photos. Where I could, I brushed downwards to give an impression of rainwater running down through the dirt. I had to revert to a smaller flat brush to get into some nooks, but I think the overall effect is what I hoped to achieve, though not quite as even as it could be. The passenger end of the BSK seems a little overdone, so I'll revisit that and see if I can either tone the effect down, or match the other end to it. I might well have to break out the airbrush to give an even tone after all.
That's as far as I've got with the BSK. I'm working under artificial light, so I before I do anything else I'll wait for daylight and have a really critical look at things.
Next up, the roof, and then I'll tackle some mild weathering on the sides.
Incidentally, dust is really, really annoying me.
You can see specks adhering to the inside of the windows, even though I have blown and brushed the interiors until I'm blue in the face. Where does it come from? I'm considering an investment in one of those silly PC keyboard vacuum cleaners to aid with dust removal, because I'm getting more than a bit narked at being laughed at from behind sealed windows by specks of white dust! 
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Incidentally, dust is really, really annoying me.
What's your glazing made from? I'm going to guess some sort of plastic, most of these can become lightly charged with static, perhaps a rub with anti static foam cleaner before sealing will help, the dust will still be in there but will have less draw toward a static charged surface or if drawn will stick less due to the residue imparted by the cleaner. I've also noted glass can also become charged too, especially things like camera mirrors and focusing screens! Luckily neither effect the final image in an SLR.
You may also find that oils from handling will act as an adhesive so a wash with detergent or petro chemical based solvent may remove the slightly adhesive oils, though if you rub it clean with a cloth you'll then lightly charge the material so best to let it air dry and then coat with anti static cleaner.
Just a thought, nice work on the weathering BTW, works for me, just how I like it, I call it 'lightly run in'
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
It's - I think - injection moulded clear styrene. It's what JLTRT supply in the box. Static is the problem, I think.
I do clean the windows with lighter fluid after they've been installed, but they still show a slightly grubby appearance, and still attract the dust! In most cases, the "cleaning" looks like they've steamed up and someone wiped a sleeve over them to see out better on a cold day when the heating wasn't working.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Heather the bogies and under frame look very good, but I think you really need to get the airbrush out for the coach ends, possibly the roof too. I use very thin paint for this 3 to 4 parts thinners to one part paint sometimes even thinner and then remove what isn't needed with a cotton wool bud.
Richard
Richard
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I was planning on just that this afternoon, but family news has kind of put a crimp in things. My Nan, who was 91 in September, died in her sleep this morning after a short illness and spell in hospital. I'm not really feeling in the mood for any more modelling today.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I know I said "not in the mood for modelling", but while I'm absorbing the family news I really need to keep myself busy.
If you recall, back in the olden days, right at the start of this thread, I had a post detailing extra bits and bobs that may or may not be required to make an alright kit much nicer. Click here for the permalink to the very post.
That covered nice extra components I chose to use on this build. Not all of them are required to make a good Mk1 model from the box. Graham (Dog Star) asked if I'd break out those parts I consider you simply must have to make a coach from the box, but which aren't included in the box. Let's see...
The most obvious thing is probably the couplings. To make an accurate Mk1, you really need buckeye couplings, but it's down to individual choice whether to use Kadees or JLTRT's own kit version (prices in the link above). The kit ships with cast screwlinks.
To be honest, that's it. Well, there's various thicknesses of brass wire to complement the nickel silver wire that comes in the kit. Most of the wire used was 0.7mm diameter, for end handrails, footboard pegs and the BSK security grilles. I added 0.9mm hard brass wire to make a rudimentary springing system for the buffers and self-centring for the couplers. Also from my stock shelves were a couple of thicknesses of copper wire for adding some wiring details to the underframe. Styrene in sheet and section form was used here and there, notably fabricating the insides of the coach ends, and short chunks cut off 2.5mm square section to make emergency lighting sockets.
What's the total cost of the extras? Hard to say, as much of it is what could be termed normal stock items in the modeller's workshop.
The 0.7mm brass wire I bought from Eileen's Emporium (item BSW070C), which is a 100-pack of straight wire. It works out at 26p per length, I probably used five lengths, which makes £1.30 for both coaches. The 0.9mm wire is the same price, but I don't think I used more than one length in total.
The styrene came from the Evergreen range, and probably came to around a tenner at most.
What am I trying to say here? I'm not sure. If you were to build a JLTRT Mk1 from the box just adding the internal end details, you'd only need to add wheels, couplings, some wire and plastic, glue, solder, paint and transfers. I assume all but wheels and couplings are found in the workshop and bought in specially.
I'm not going into details, which you can probably work out for yourselves if so inclined, but I did a rough and ready comparison between building more or less from the box and building with extras. The difference in price was remarkably small. Of course, when you factor in all the other things I - or any other professional builder - put into the build, the final value for a completed model is much higher. An interesting exercise, nonetheless.
If you recall, back in the olden days, right at the start of this thread, I had a post detailing extra bits and bobs that may or may not be required to make an alright kit much nicer. Click here for the permalink to the very post.
That covered nice extra components I chose to use on this build. Not all of them are required to make a good Mk1 model from the box. Graham (Dog Star) asked if I'd break out those parts I consider you simply must have to make a coach from the box, but which aren't included in the box. Let's see...
The most obvious thing is probably the couplings. To make an accurate Mk1, you really need buckeye couplings, but it's down to individual choice whether to use Kadees or JLTRT's own kit version (prices in the link above). The kit ships with cast screwlinks.
To be honest, that's it. Well, there's various thicknesses of brass wire to complement the nickel silver wire that comes in the kit. Most of the wire used was 0.7mm diameter, for end handrails, footboard pegs and the BSK security grilles. I added 0.9mm hard brass wire to make a rudimentary springing system for the buffers and self-centring for the couplers. Also from my stock shelves were a couple of thicknesses of copper wire for adding some wiring details to the underframe. Styrene in sheet and section form was used here and there, notably fabricating the insides of the coach ends, and short chunks cut off 2.5mm square section to make emergency lighting sockets.
What's the total cost of the extras? Hard to say, as much of it is what could be termed normal stock items in the modeller's workshop.
The 0.7mm brass wire I bought from Eileen's Emporium (item BSW070C), which is a 100-pack of straight wire. It works out at 26p per length, I probably used five lengths, which makes £1.30 for both coaches. The 0.9mm wire is the same price, but I don't think I used more than one length in total.
The styrene came from the Evergreen range, and probably came to around a tenner at most.
What am I trying to say here? I'm not sure. If you were to build a JLTRT Mk1 from the box just adding the internal end details, you'd only need to add wheels, couplings, some wire and plastic, glue, solder, paint and transfers. I assume all but wheels and couplings are found in the workshop and bought in specially.
I'm not going into details, which you can probably work out for yourselves if so inclined, but I did a rough and ready comparison between building more or less from the box and building with extras. The difference in price was remarkably small. Of course, when you factor in all the other things I - or any other professional builder - put into the build, the final value for a completed model is much higher. An interesting exercise, nonetheless.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Realising there was little I could do regarding the family situation, I decided to bite the bullet and break my self-imposed ban on airbrushing weathering. I got the heater on in the loft workshop, and sorted out the paint and thinners, and just got on with it. Keeping busy helped me cope with the feelings of loss.
I turned the pressure down on the compressor - don't ask me what pressure I used, but it allowed a gentle flow of paint rather than the consistent pressure I use for painting the sides. I fitted the fine nozzle to the Badger, mixed some paint and thinners in the cup - I didn't need the industrial quantities I use for painting body colours, so the glass jars stayed in their box - and had a practice on some scrap material to get the coverage and pressure about right.
My first effort was way too drastic. It was being applied over the dry-brushed efforts, so it was bound to be a bit heavy. I set the BSK body aside to dry a little, and concentrated on getting gunk on the bogies. I came back to the body, and didn't like what I saw, cussed a little under my breath (or as much as one can wearing a face mask like a stormtrooper), and decided to attack the mess with the thinners-soaked cotton bud.
Colour me stunned, the mess came off nicely, leaving grime (and stray fibres) in the corners! It just needed another dusting to make it look the business. I tried again, being a little less enthusiastic with the paint.
The outer end of the BSK. Some gentle dry-brushing will help tone things back a little in places, but I'm happy with this.
For the TSO I decided the weathering should be a little less intense, for variety if nothing else.
I'm convinced. Now I've done it for real, I understand the technique. I'll be confident about doing it again.
I turned the pressure down on the compressor - don't ask me what pressure I used, but it allowed a gentle flow of paint rather than the consistent pressure I use for painting the sides. I fitted the fine nozzle to the Badger, mixed some paint and thinners in the cup - I didn't need the industrial quantities I use for painting body colours, so the glass jars stayed in their box - and had a practice on some scrap material to get the coverage and pressure about right.
My first effort was way too drastic. It was being applied over the dry-brushed efforts, so it was bound to be a bit heavy. I set the BSK body aside to dry a little, and concentrated on getting gunk on the bogies. I came back to the body, and didn't like what I saw, cussed a little under my breath (or as much as one can wearing a face mask like a stormtrooper), and decided to attack the mess with the thinners-soaked cotton bud.
Colour me stunned, the mess came off nicely, leaving grime (and stray fibres) in the corners! It just needed another dusting to make it look the business. I tried again, being a little less enthusiastic with the paint.
The outer end of the BSK. Some gentle dry-brushing will help tone things back a little in places, but I'm happy with this.
For the TSO I decided the weathering should be a little less intense, for variety if nothing else.
I'm convinced. Now I've done it for real, I understand the technique. I'll be confident about doing it again.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Just heard from the client. Unfortunately, he won't be able to make Reading due to work commitments. This means I have a little time to finesse things, and means the coaches can live on the JLTRT stand for the duration of my visit. I'm sure Laurie won't mind.
It also raises the spectre of shipping. Does anyone have a recommendation for a reliable, fairly inexpensive, and safe courier or shipping company I can trust not to squash the models in transit? Thanks!
It also raises the spectre of shipping. Does anyone have a recommendation for a reliable, fairly inexpensive, and safe courier or shipping company I can trust not to squash the models in transit? Thanks!
Just heard from the client. Unfortunately, he won't be able to make Reading due to work commitments. This means I have a little time to finesse things, and means the coaches can live on the JLTRT stand for the duration of my visit. I'm sure Laurie won't mind.
It also raises the spectre of shipping. Does anyone have a recommendation for a reliable, fairly inexpensive, and safe courier or shipping company I can trust not to squash the models in transit? Thanks!
Interlink Direct - http://www.interlinkdirect.co.uk/index.jsp?gclid=CKC7i8rjibsCFTLJtAod2TMAyA
My Hermes - https://www.myhermes.co.uk/
I've never received anything damaged from either and their costs are both reasonable + they both collect from you.
Mind You in 34 years we have never had anything damaged by Royal Mail either!
DJP
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Excellent! Thanks David. It's always worth having a recommendation from people who've used the services.
You're right about Royal Mail, and they do offer an insured service at reasonable cost.
You're right about Royal Mail, and they do offer an insured service at reasonable cost.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Heather
Personally I think most of the courier services are much the same the key to getting them there safely is adequate packaging, lots and lots of bubble wrap to protect them. The JLTRT box they come is not deep enough to provide adequate protection, I know because one came to me in one, it was moderately damaged with windows out, broken bogies etc.
Richard
Personally I think most of the courier services are much the same the key to getting them there safely is adequate packaging, lots and lots of bubble wrap to protect them. The JLTRT box they come is not deep enough to provide adequate protection, I know because one came to me in one, it was moderately damaged with windows out, broken bogies etc.
Richard