7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thanks Mickoo

The back and the sides of the DJH tenders come pre formed and in one piece....... The top fold on the 1G tender was a little high, so some time was spent trying to bring that down a little and to achieve that, I had to separate the sides and back. So I had to force a new, bend and then straighten the upper portion. Not easy, I wanted to avoid annealing if possible.
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Then the front, back and sides can be assembled to form a box which can be checked for square. Then the fit of the hopper assembly can be made good.

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And there we are the almost complete body sat on the chassis, the tabs to fit the body to the chassis were wider than the slot arrangement, so I cut them off. I also removed the fixed cab doors, they don't look right to me, I prefer ones that move and as this particular loco will mainly be on shed, they will probably be folded back.
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So not quite as easy as I would have thought, but mainly, the out of position top fold was the main holdup.
 
Cliff Williams

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
Nick your 9F was a beauty, I converted it to DCÇ sound for the new owner.
As always you have to brutalise the tender to get the chip in the tender, but it ran sweet as a nut, likewise your Finney Unrebuilt WC.
Hijack over, lets see these 9Fs come together!
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I've been working on the 1F tenders and I've got into the habit of checking photos for almost every part I fit these days. One thing I spotted, is that the tender 'floor' does not extent forward beyond the tank, so I have cut back the basic rectangular shape as can be seen in the photo. The tender front dragbeam also does not have a flat top surface as supplied, top tops of the outer edges are cut away. There is also an etched rivet strip to go on the underside of the floor, but I felt that would add unnecessary thickness so have left it off. It doesn't seem to be shown in the instructions but I think that is what it is for. Someone mention that the instructions are a bit thin, and they are, which means you have to study the exploded diagrams very carefully as not to miss anything out.
I wasn't quite happy with the folds in the 1G tenders body etch either, so spent an hour or so on them with wood blocks and bars to try and get them to a shape that I was happy with, photos to follow tomorrow. Maybe I'm just picky...
Raymond Whalley documented a 9F build a couple of years ago, so I have that as reference and copied beefing up the threaded holes for screwing the tender chassis to the body with some thick scrap etch.
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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I realise I need to be using a different set of skills, more akin to scratch building, where it is up to the builder to get parts in the right position and make sure they are square! After a couple of false starts, I tacked all the bits together temporarily, the tenders are well under way. I couldn't work out how to fit the combined bunker and tender top in one piece with the divider already attached and get it all straight, so I separated them and put in the top first with a temporary spacer soldered midway between the tender sides to keep them the correct distance apart. The remaining pieces were then all tacked in bit by bit and checked for square. I also had a little battle to get those top curves right and starting in the right place, using more blocks of wood and brute strength...
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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
A Crewe of tenders? I've had my head down getting these together, I had the hopper crooked in one and I thought I might get away with it, but eventually it comes back to bite you as it means that other components will not fit, and after far too much contemplation, I ended up cutting out the solder along the back and one side, bashing it out and redoing it - fortunately without any damage to the side sheet. A salutary lesson to double check that things are square, how many times have I told myself that? Some of the white metal items are soldered, others fixed with Epoxy, I can never quite make my mind up which is best. I added a mounting plate for the water treatment hatch, I'm not sure if they all had it, but at least one of Annesley's fleet had the patch. I soldered as much from the inside as I could before adding the chassis. I love the 1F tenders, they just look huge. Other items, I added the 2 pipe oilers at the front outside of the frames, stays for the front steps and remembered that the sieve boxes are not hard up against the frames, despite there being a convenient spigot on the back of the casting. The axle box and spring castings lack detail on the spring hangers. I'll live with that for the moment.
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One thing I could not live with, was the wire brake stretchers and white metal brakes in the kit, so I used Ragstone lost wax castings which are actually designed to prototypically hang off the inside of the our frames. I had to make mounting pads from scrap etch to mount them on the inner frames and drilled the ends of the stretchers to take 1mm brass rod. drilled out, 14Ba nuts were then added on the ends. The frame stretchers are 'U' shaped in reality, so strip from scrap etches ( again ) were soldered to the sides of the flat etch in the kit. The rear one is trapped by scoop lifter and to enable the chassis to separate from the main body, the stretchers screw with 14BA screws to 2mm 'L' angle soldered to the insides of the frames in the appropriate locations. I also had to knock up 12 small cranks to join the brake shaft to the pull rods, now that was tedious. Just pick ups to add now. The centre bearing has a 1mm brass rod soldered into a drilling which locates into a split pin handrail knob on the inside of the frame. This allow is to float in the slot without the bearing rotating.
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S

Sheffield

Member
I understand the hornguides were on the centre line of the frames of the wide firebox Britannias, Clans and 9Fs to avoid the twisting load on the frames as Dog Star says, but the other standard classes had the more traditional arrangement to allow the frames to be as wide apart as possible to accommodate the narrow firebox which drops down between the frames.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Like many of us, I am at appoint in my life where aging parents, become a responsibility, so after taking 2 weeks out to move Ma to a retirement apartment I am back at the workbench and its on with those 9Fs
The chassis' have all been assembled and the cut outs for the hornblocks made, it actually entailed 60 hole cuts....
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The cabs are a one piece fold up, and BR standard cabs are always difficult, as there are so many sexy angles on them. I'm not entirely sure these can fold up perfectly as designed, I think a cut will be needed...
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Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
This thread is slowly but definitely bringing me round to the Standard way... Dangerous times..

Looking great..

JB.
 
alcazar

alcazar

Guest
Must...........resist..............

OK, I'll admit I have a 9F to build, but it's provenance will remain secret until it gets built. Suffice to say, it's not a common type.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
You get what you pay for I guess, the MOK 9F will go together a lot easier than the DJH one I'm sure.

I've spent today, among other things, fitting the hornblocks. I'm rather impressed by the new Slaters brass ones, they are rather neat. This is the first time I have used a chassis jig - and doesn't it help! This one is a Hobby Holidays one and the stub axles can be positioned by using the coupling rods.
Preparing 30 hornblocks was a trial... but it gave me chance to catch up on 'The Men from the Ministry' on I-player.
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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
The BBC I-player is marvellous!! I just prepared each one and kept the bearing with it, once soldered into the frames, the bearings are trapped..
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
dibateg said:
You get what you pay for I guess, the MOK 9F will go together a lot easier than the DJH one I'm sure.

I've spent today, among other things, fitting the hornblocks. I'm rather impressed by the new Slaters brass ones, they are rather neat. This is the first time I have used a chassis jig - and doesn't it help! This one is a Hobby Holidays one and the stub axles can be positioned by using the coupling rods.
Preparing 30 hornblocks was a trial... but it gave me chance to catch up on 'The Men from the Ministry' on I-player.
View attachment 38960

View attachment 38961
Click to expand...
I'll be really interested to see how these work out. The problem I foresee is that there is no adjustment to ride height possible once they are installed. They look loads better than the old ones, but they had the benefit of an adjusting screw so, once set up on glass each horn block could be adjusted for vertical position which took out any slight installation variation. That was the problem for me - I could not guarantee getting every horn block in precisely the same vertical position.

To a degree the above is an assumption, as I always use insulated hornblocks, but when talking to David White he confirmed that both insulated and uninsulated are to the same design.

That's the reason Steph designed the etches for an adjustable bearing within the horn block and I'll be using these in future.

Brian
 
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