Which tools?
- Thread starter SteadyRed
- Start date
S
SteveO
Guest
Haha! Of course not, silly. You can find them in the Long Weight section of any DIY store...
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
Many years since I was sent to the fitters shop to ask for "a long stand" or some "sparks for the grinder"
Sadly that career came to an end with the downsizing of British manufacturing industry in the 1980s.
IT just doesn't have the same feel of achieving something at the end of the day, but it has paid the bills for a good few years.
Sadly that career came to an end with the downsizing of British manufacturing industry in the 1980s.
IT just doesn't have the same feel of achieving something at the end of the day, but it has paid the bills for a good few years.
Neil
Western Thunderer
Voice of dissent here. My esteemed colleagues have come up with excellent suggestions of tools which they find indispensable, but to kick off with you need very little. You'll soon work out what extras you'll need depending on things like the materials you want to work in or your own model-making style. Also don't fall into the trap of thinking that dearer, 'quality' tools are essential. An eighty year old friend of mine is a composer and concert pianist; he can make any instrument sound good, simply because he's put in the practice and honed his skills over many years.
I realise this sounds a bit negative, but the most vital piece of kit you'll bring to bear is that grey squidgy stuff between your lugs, in particular the bits concerned with looking, evaluation, patience and determination. Humour will probably help too.
I realise this sounds a bit negative, but the most vital piece of kit you'll bring to bear is that grey squidgy stuff between your lugs, in particular the bits concerned with looking, evaluation, patience and determination. Humour will probably help too.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
More like parallel motion - the jaws are hinged so as to close with a parallel motion. As indicated earlier, very useful for getting at some parts of complicated fold-ups - for example:- the diagonal "L" girders of the Slater's etch for GWR carriage bogies.
On the other hand, like hen's teeth in that the items are not often available (from Squires).
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I should clarify which pin vice I use. It's listed by Squires as "High Quality Swivel Head Pin Vice", Code PV0022 (£4.99).
It has two reversible steel collets giving four sizes 0-1.2mm, 1.3-2.4mm, 0.8-2mm and 1.8-2.9mm.
It has two reversible steel collets giving four sizes 0-1.2mm, 1.3-2.4mm, 0.8-2mm and 1.8-2.9mm.
I fully agree - that is the starting point for everything and that you have to have that ability in the first place and to further work on it is beyond question. However the quality of the tools do play a part beyond that and can improve further the outcome. It is not only about that however. Good tools improve a modeller's confidence and are a joy to use.
I cannot remember how many cheapo pairs of cutters have just plain failed on me [low quality metal] or blunted after just a day at the workbench [no case-hardening there!]. I have 2-3 sets of heavier duty Lindstrom cutters which I have used since the early 1970s. They are as good now really as they were all those years ago and will last me out! Recently I purchased a fine smooth jawed pair of pliers and small flush-cut cutters. - again, both by Lindstrom. OK they cost me 9-10 times the price of the cheaper makes but they will actually save money over time. Meanwhile, I have tools which will never fail me and that I can have total confidence in and that is worth so very much.
My father [a superb model maker from 30-50 - after which he just stopped] could make a silk purse etc. but he still told me something I've never forgotten - Always buy the very best tools you can afford - and I've always tried to keep to that rule. I think it is a good one.
Regards,
DJP
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I'm in the 'buy the best you can camp' too, for one simple reason, if it all goes to pot then you have no excuse in blaming bad tools, quite clearly the error is in the user. Of course there is truth in the statement that you don't need them, but this is a hobby and is supposed to be fun, fighting with bad tools just simply takes the fun out of it and often leads to disillusion and ultimately giving up. You don't need the best there is, just good mid range and priced stuff.
Only other tools I'd go for are a piercing saw,a decent scribe and a punch for dotting holes that need drilling to stop the bit skidding off.
Only other tools I'd go for are a piercing saw,a decent scribe and a punch for dotting holes that need drilling to stop the bit skidding off.
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread. Must admit I am in the "best you can afford camp", however I can understand buying cheaper files for materials which clog the teeth. Originating from Sheffield I find it difficult to buy "cheap & cheerful" far eastern tools, I seen too many edge tools made from anything but tool steel.
I have taken all your suggestions onboard & have compiled a list of what I think I need to get started, I will add tools as required after that.
Unfortunately I didn't manage to get to Shepshed today, probably a good thing as I would have ended up buying more kits before I have even started on the ones I have.
Can anyone recommend any good online tool suppliers, at the moment I am looking at Eileens Emporium & Squires.
Thanks
Dave
I have taken all your suggestions onboard & have compiled a list of what I think I need to get started, I will add tools as required after that.
Unfortunately I didn't manage to get to Shepshed today, probably a good thing as I would have ended up buying more kits before I have even started on the ones I have.
Can anyone recommend any good online tool suppliers, at the moment I am looking at Eileens Emporium & Squires.
Thanks
Dave
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Those two are good. One I haven't actually bought anything from yet, but which gets good reports, is Axminster Tool Centre.
I also recommend a rummage around Machine Mart - there may be a store near you.
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
I will not be touching fibreglass brushes, I hate the stuff. Working in IT I sometimes have to investigate bits of networks in roof voids etc. Rockwool insulation or fibreglass suspended ceiling tiles gets in my fingers and stay for what seems like weeks. Not what I want from a hobby.
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
Those two are good. One I haven't actually bought anything from yet, but which gets good reports, is Axminster Tool Centre.
I also recommend a rummage around Machine Mart - there may be a store near you.
Axminster Tool Centre looks excellent, they have branded items alongside generic products which is good.
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
8" Hold & Fold will be ordered over the weekend, was going to go 5 1/2" but the 8" seems to be the choice on here.
JimG
Western Thunderer
Dave,
Don't knock cheap tools - they have their uses. You wouldn't use Lindstrom cutters to cut piano wire. My Lindstroms have lasted many years but are only used on copper wire.
Also with cheap pliers, you can file the jaws to suit a particular need .
And talking about files, you might want to get a decent sized one for good metal removal - something like an 8" second cut, flat file. You do need to get good ones where files are concerned. I have got Nicholson files in the past and they have lasted well and I recently got some Bahco files (with moulded handles) which have worked well. The cheap ones in places like B&Q are not worth looking at.
Jim.
Don't knock cheap tools - they have their uses. You wouldn't use Lindstrom cutters to cut piano wire. My Lindstroms have lasted many years but are only used on copper wire.
Also with cheap pliers, you can file the jaws to suit a particular need . And talking about files, you might want to get a decent sized one for good metal removal - something like an 8" second cut, flat file. You do need to get good ones where files are concerned. I have got Nicholson files in the past and they have lasted well and I recently got some Bahco files (with moulded handles) which have worked well. The cheap ones in places like B&Q are not worth looking at.
Jim.
adrian
Flying Squad
Agreed - I have a pair of pliers with a nice radius filed on one side of the jaws for putting bends in handrail wire.
I have used my larger Lindstrom cutters for cutting piano wire many many times over the decades - they are about the only cutters that WILL cut the stuff.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
My Father too always quoted this......
goes for any traditional trade.With regard to hold and fold's I hardly ever use it usually grabbing the paralell jawed pliers
.Col.
S
SteveO
Guest
I got these delivered this week for a price that reflects their quality. The best thing about them is that they have brass inserts in the jaws and a spring-action grip.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Steve, please expand on your post...
* what price?
* where from?
* what do you think is good? and bad?
regards, Graham
S
SteveO
Guest
Thanks for your interest Graham. I got them on ebay from here. At the time they were having a sale so mine cost me £12.31 but they have gone up slightly since then.
I have used a pair that seem to have a smoother action, in that every joint seemed to be absolutely perfectly matched with no play at all, but they cost over £50 a pair (I think £55ish). These are not quite that sort of quality but they are reasonably good, certainly for the money. The faces are all machined flush and are at perfect 90deg corners, so great for folding without too much checking.
The only slight downside is that on my pair (possibly not on every pair) when you close the jaws I can still see a very slight slither of light at the tail end, which means they don't quite close parallel – I'd estimate less than 0.25mm. If I squeeze hard I can reduce this by half but still not quite flush. It's the nose end that's fully closed.
The ebay shop has had some bad feedback due to poor quality tools but having checked thoroughly none of the feedback referred to this tool. I've tested them out on scrap earlier and they work very well. I'm happy with them.
I have used a pair that seem to have a smoother action, in that every joint seemed to be absolutely perfectly matched with no play at all, but they cost over £50 a pair (I think £55ish). These are not quite that sort of quality but they are reasonably good, certainly for the money. The faces are all machined flush and are at perfect 90deg corners, so great for folding without too much checking.
The only slight downside is that on my pair (possibly not on every pair) when you close the jaws I can still see a very slight slither of light at the tail end, which means they don't quite close parallel – I'd estimate less than 0.25mm. If I squeeze hard I can reduce this by half but still not quite flush. It's the nose end that's fully closed.
The ebay shop has had some bad feedback due to poor quality tools but having checked thoroughly none of the feedback referred to this tool. I've tested them out on scrap earlier and they work very well. I'm happy with them.