Slow starter in S7 - Peckett Class E 0-4-0ST

NewportRod

Western Thunderer
I recently made an impulse purchase of a Springside Peckett 0-4-0 saddle tank, Class E from these pages. It might have been more sensible to get the excellent Minerva ready-to-run version but I figured that a kit would be easier to convert to Scaleseven and install the necessary batteries and receiver for BPRC.

Luckily there is plenty of information on the late David Smith's webpage dedicated to this class of locos and Pecketts generally on Martin Page's webpage and there was a lot of discussion on RMWeb about the class in the wake of Minerva's announcement. The purchase also nudged me into joining the Industrial Railway Society and I'm sure that I shall get more information from that source in due course.

So far I have obtained Scaleseven axles and had the wheel profiles turned to S7, receiving a very speedy service from both the Scaleseven group stores and Colin Dowling a.k.a. Eastsidepilot who is well known on these pages.

Last night I assembled the wheels, crankpins and coupling rods and, what do you know?, it ran freely without any binding on the first assembly. Emboldened by this I fitted the motor and gearbox and applied a modicum DC and the chassis continued to run smoothly. Yay!


upload_2021-7-31_13-41-19.jpeg

I have put M5 washers behind the wheels to reduce the amount of sideways movement, I'll see how this works and I might want to add a few more thou of shim before I am finished. I intend to put some plasticard false frames over the brass frames to reduce the gap between the backs of the wheels and the frames to something more realistic.

When it comes to the body, which is whitemetal, my natural default would be to use low melting point solder for construction, but the Springside instructions recommend epoxy resin so I am currently in a dilemma over that point. If I do make any progress I shall let you know what happens later.

I am also undecided which particular prototype to model but I'm tempted at the moment to plump for one of the Ebbw Vale locos from 1908.

All comments and advice welcome btw.

Rod
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Rod,

I’ve not built that model, but I have built three other Springside locos, and I used low melt solder for all of them.

I used Powerflo flux in the yellow pot, and washed in warm water after each session.

They’re nice kits IMO.

hth
Simon
 

Marc Dobson

Western Thunderer
I have been thinking of doing the same with a LYR pug that has been sitting there. I got 2nd hand the top has been glue together with 2 part epoxy applied with a trowel. are you altering the frames or using them as is?

Marc
 

NewportRod

Western Thunderer
are you altering the frames or using them as is?

Marc

Marc - for good or bad this is where I stand now:

Peckett chassis from below.jpeg
Peckett chassis from above.jpeg
As you can see I've used the O gauge chassis as is, and you should be able to see the M5 washers between the brass bushes and the wheels. There seems to be a bit of movement in the bushes to I'm hoping that I shan't need to introduce any compensation or springing to keep it on the track with its scale flanges and as I intend to use battery power maintaining electrical contact isn't an issue.

My plan of attack is to fit the cylinders and motion brackets next them add cosmetic plasticard frames later. I'm yet to figure out what to do with the brakegear. Luckily I don't need to worry about guard irons.

Looking at the pics I wonder if I have the wheels fully home on the leading axle (LHS on the pics) as there appears to be more side-play. Time to get the back-to-back gauges out!

R
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Looking at the pics I wonder if I have the wheels fully home on the leading axle (LHS on the pics) as there appears to be more side-play. Time to get the back-to-back gauges out!

R

If the axle screw is up tight and the wheel is not hard against the shoulders then you may have to shorten the shouldered square ends of the axle slightly to stop the underside of the counter sink head of the screw binding before the wheel is up tight. if that makes sense :confused::)
This will be due, sometimes, to the wheel being reduced in width when re-profiling

Col.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
If the back to back is fine I don't think you have a problem, it is just the camera angle making things look a bit funny.

Richard
 

NewportRod

Western Thunderer
Yes I might still want to reduce side play though as I want to try Alex Jackson couplings bad alignment is critical.
 

NewportRod

Western Thunderer
It's probably that the frames are well under scale width.
Yes, it's designed for O gauge. The last time I looked at the width outside of a pair of frames it was 4 feet. This was a B&MR 2-4-0 but maybe typical. That would scale out at 28 mm; these frames are 26 mm so I guess I'll need some 40 thou of packing.

Other kits I have, 88D and Mitchell, do have alternative frame spacers to provide scale width frames (either included or as an extra).
 

NewportRod

Western Thunderer
A little more progress this week as I've added one cylinder and slidebars, etc. I'm now looking forward to discovering how much clearance we have behind the crosshead.

2021-08-rh-stock-01 copy.jpeg

It looks as if I'm running short on EAMES low-melt solder. I'll have to go back to the shop and replenish my supply.
 

Graham Bustin

Active Member
A little more progress this week as I've added one cylinder and slidebars, etc. I'm now looking forward to discovering how much clearance we have behind the crosshead.

View attachment 147042

It looks as if I'm running short on EAMES low-melt solder. I'll have to go back to the shop and replenish my supply.
Eames closed in the late eighties and the site is now a office block. Much missed in the town, where we once had three model shops we now have none. Now use Alton Model Centre, a short drive to use a good shop, and an excuse to visit the Mid Hants.

Graham
 
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