Weathering Paints

S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Eastsidepilot

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Ressaldar said:
has anybody any experience in using these paints/washes?
http://www.creativemodels.net/index.php/cPath/5_76?osCsid=c9780268ee7ea7816283ed967513878b
on reading through the 'how to do apply it' link, it mentions painting the model with acrylics then applying these washes - which are enamels - I was under the impression that that would lead to trouble, but you can apply acrylics over enamels.
cheers
Mike
Click to expand...

Mike,
From my experience there's no problem applying enamel over acrylic and you can cut back with enamel thinners or white spirit, it won't attack the acrylic.
It's the same with cellulose you can apply enamel over it.

ATB, Col
 
Ressaldar

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon & Col,

thanks for the responses, I'll keep an eye out for these paints and report back - as and when.

cheers

Mike
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Mike, I use AK, there is no problem over acrylic. You can of course achieve exactly the same with enamel paints if you mix your own brew
 
Jim S-W

Jim S-W

Western Thunderer
I haven't used them but they are mentioned a lot in FAQ2 which (although military) is a must have book

Cheers

Jim
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
eastsidepilot said:
Mike,
From my experience there's no problem applying enamel over acrylic and you can cut back with enamel thinners or white spirit, it won't attack the acrylic.
It's the same with cellulose you can apply enamel over it.

ATB, Col
Click to expand...

Col, talking of cellulose is there much of this stuff still around? I know it used to come in areosol cans from various suppliers but it seems to be like rocking horse poo. I'm assuming that the only way to deliver this type of paint now is through airbrushing. I only ask as at some point in the future I intend to build and paint some coaching stock which will be blood and custard and I've read an article from a past MRJ where Martyn Welch uses cellulose for this. Plus lots of folk seem to prefer cellulose as any weathering in enamels you're not happy with can be removed without completely trashing the paint job underneath?

ATB Mick
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Jim S-W said:
I haven't used them but they are mentioned a lot in FAQ2 which (although military) is a must have book

Cheers

Jim
Click to expand...
Yes it is an excellent book, there is so much in it it is almost overwhelming, I have had a copy five weeks and I dont fee that I have scratched the surface yet, the DAK is also worth a look.
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
7mmMick said:
Col, talking of cellulose is there much of this stuff still around? I know it used to come in areosol cans from various suppliers but it seems to be like rocking horse poo. I'm assuming that the only way to deliver this type of paint now is through airbrushing. I only ask as at some point in the future I intend to build and paint some coaching stock which will be blood and custard and I've read an article from a past MRJ where Martyn Welch uses cellulose for this. Plus lots of folk seem to prefer cellulose as any weathering in enamels you're not happy with can be removed without completely trashing the paint job underneath?

ATB Mick
Click to expand...
You need to go to a specialist in auto paints and they will mix it for you. when I used to use it I found a small spray gun quite handy, its a different technique to enamel or acrylic, much less forgiving, you need to be quite bold and get the paint on.
 
Eastsidepilot

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
7mmMick said:
Col, talking of cellulose is there much of this stuff still around? I know it used to come in aerosol cans from various suppliers but it seems to be like rocking horse poo. I'm assuming that the only way to deliver this type of paint now is through airbrushing. I only ask as at some point in the future I intend to build and paint some coaching stock which will be blood and custard and I've read an article from a past MRJ where Martyn Welch uses cellulose for this. Plus lots of folk seem to prefer cellulose as any weathering in enamels you're not happy with can be removed without completely trashing the paint job underneath?

ATB Mick
Click to expand...
Phill's answered part of your question Mick, I'm not too sure what the car repair boys use these days but I have been using the car colour spray cans available from motor accessory shops in particular Holts Dupli-Color.
It says on the tin that it is acrylic plus formula, lead free, and can be used in conjunction with cellulose. Certainly the only thing that will touch it is cellulose thinners.
You can apply enamels over the top and cut back with white spirit without harming the surface finish.
I can recommend Ian Rathbones book 'Painting & Lining' if you've not already read it.

ATB, Col
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the tips everyone:thumbs:

eastsidepilot said:
Phill's answered part of your question Mick, I'm not too sure what the car repair boys use these days but I have been using the car colour spray cans available from motor accessory shops in particular Holts Dupli-Color.
It says on the tin that it is acrylic plus formula, lead free, and can be used in conjunction with cellulose. Certainly the only thing that will touch it is cellulose thinners.
You can apply enamels over the top and cut back with white spirit without harming the surface finish.
I can recommend Ian Rathbones book 'Painting & Lining' if you've not already read it.

ATB, Col
Click to expand...

I have the book cheers Col, i'll have to dig it out and have another read through when the time comes. Can you recommend the Holts colours that you use for Blood and Custard, if they represent the colours well it'll be the way to go as i'm quite comfortable with cans ( and plus I don't have a quality airbrush yet ). Failing that I may get a batch mixed up by a paint shop and wait till I can afford a decent airbrush. I know in the Martyn Welch article he says he was lucky enough to get some mixed up and has never run out of this original bacth. Can anyone comment on the colour match and general usability of the JLTRT sprays?

ATB Mick
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
The JLTRT sprays I used have been a good match - to my eye, that does not necessarily mean they are accurate ;) :)) I decanted them into a paint cup to use with a small spraygun so I cant comment on that
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks Guv, as long as they're a good representation I'm not too fussed to be honest. You always get a few ' that's not the right shade ' comments from the rivet counters but as long as it's a close match.
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
eastsidepilot said:
you can cut back with enamel thinners or white spirit, it won't attack the acrylic.
Click to expand...
It will if you rub really, really hard with a cotton bud, for example if trying to remove some weathering which has gone disatrously wrong.
Guess how I know...
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Just out of interest, what are Halfords spray cans?..........I have always had excellent results with them, but I would take any claims of matches to rail colours for any car paints with a pinch of salt. I'm sure there are good matches, but some colours like BR Blue for example are nothing like IMO

For most rail colours that I tend to use their are no real car paint matches IMO, I have always used Rail Match enamels for these colours which are great, the only problem I have with them is the crapy nozzles which sometimes clog (I always keep spare nozzles from empty cans that still work)

Cheers Phill
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Eastsidepilot

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Simon Dunkley said:
It will if you rub really, really hard with a cotton bud, for example if trying to remove some weathering which has gone disatrously wrong.
Guess how I know...
Click to expand...
That's interesting Simon, not having had to do that, only lightly cutting back, I've not discovered this but thanks for pointing it out.:thumbs:
ATB, Col:)
 
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