Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Adrian Tester and the chairs were for Midland Railway.
3d Printing
- Thread starter 28ten
- Start date
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
BR 1943, 6" long.
A drawing that Buckjumper sent me whilst I was building Dungeness Siding shows that for GER 95 lb rail, the key was 7" long.
Can't find any other info I'm afraid.
Looking good though
A drawing that Buckjumper sent me whilst I was building Dungeness Siding shows that for GER 95 lb rail, the key was 7" long.
Can't find any other info I'm afraid.
Looking good though
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Guv' try this for size
ATB, Col.
ATB, Col.
28ten
Guv'nor
That answers one question
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Are you sure?That answers one question
Try this:- Extracts from Harvie...
Maybe not readily apparent from this reference, GWR wood keys were handed. If you need to see the full text then let me know.
regards, Graham
28ten
Guv'nor
Strangely I had been re reading that this evening
the more I learn the less I know 
Im aiming to get something off in the next week, I need to resolve the chair/rail fit before worrying about too many other details, which are easily fixed on the computer.
28ten
Guv'nor
I think ViperHR from Fineline should do for the final version
http://www.finelineprototyping.com/...php?technologies[]=ref&technologies[]=viperhr
http://www.finelineprototyping.com/...php?technologies[]=ref&technologies[]=viperhr
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Yes, that was what I was planning to use for my masters, it seems to be about the best resolution available at the moment.
28ten
Guv'nor
We shall see
It shouldnt be too expensive as the chair is only 12.3mm x 5.95 mm. if I can get the results from this then look out 
Simon
Flying Squad
couple of nuts added. This will go off tomorrow and we will see what happens
Im hoping someone can tell me how big my nuts should be
View attachment 10686
You are going to hate me, but I think the top surface of the key ought to be better defined - also I'm pretty certain that its top surface should sit slightly above the top of the chair jaw.
Either way I think you need to put a chamfer across the outside edge of the key, which should show across the top edge of the jaw, if you see what I mean. The key isn't tall enough - although I appreciate that the wrong foot of the code 180 makes this rather challenging. The inside top edge ought to be chamfered too, which makes it fit snugly under the rail head, which it looks as if it doesn't on the current model.
Otherwise it looks absolutely superb.
Sorry.......
Oh - your nuts look fine
Simon
daifly
Western Thunderer
Surely it should be a screw spike anyway?couple of nuts added. This will go off tomorrow and we will see what happens
Im hoping someone can tell me how big my nuts should be
View attachment 10686
28ten
Guv'nor
You are going to hate me, but I think the top surface of the key ought to be better defined - also I'm pretty certain that its top surface should sit slightly above the top of the chair jaw.
Either way I think you need to put a chamfer across the outside edge of the key, which should show across the top edge of the jaw, if you see what I mean. The key isn't tall enough - although I appreciate that the wrong foot of the code 180 makes this rather challenging. The inside top edge ought to be chamfered too, which makes it fit snugly under the rail head, which it looks as if it doesn't on the current model.
Otherwise it looks absolutely superb.
Sorry.......
Oh - your nuts look fine
Simon
You mean like this?
The whole fit of the rail in the chair is something of an experiment so we will see what happens...
28ten
Guv'nor
Interesting, i looked at one in the yard at Hereford and it was a bolt
I think Graham also had a drawing with a bolt, Its an easy fix either way. My main concern with this first effort is the chair rail fit. Im not entirely convinced it is even the right chair for Wallingford it looks closer to a BR chair. all good fun http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnefrench/452935584/
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Interesting, i looked at one in the yard at Hereford and it was a bolt
Cynric - I'd leave it as it is. GWR chairs (on plain track at least), did tend to be attached with two bolts coming up through the sleeper with a nut being visible as you have portrayed. I've got one in the garden somewhere and it still has the nuts and bolts attached - I imagine the sleeper it was once attached to had rotted badly! If I can find it, I'll measure the size of the nuts for you). The underside of the sleeper had some small metal "washers" about 1/4 inch thick and around 2 - 3 inches square through which the bolts passed. I think they have ridges on both sides to both grip the sleepers and also, to prevent the bolts from turning as the nuts were tightened.
The screw spike mentioned by daifly, seems to be the norm where the chairs have three fixings and there are still a lot to be seen on the Southern Region in Eastleigh yard for example.
Regards
Dan
Simon
Flying Squad
That looks much better Cynric
As regards fixing, what Daifly is showing us are called (I think) trenails, we used to call them fang bolts and took gtreat pleasure in collecting them whenever a disused line was visited.
However, I'm with Dan and think you have got it right for the GWR. Chairs were attached by square headed bolts passing through a ribbed square washer under the sleeper and secured by a nut as you have got. I don't remember the washer on top though!
I'll look at the GW study group trackwork book later.
Simon
As regards fixing, what Daifly is showing us are called (I think) trenails, we used to call them fang bolts and took gtreat pleasure in collecting them whenever a disused line was visited.
However, I'm with Dan and think you have got it right for the GWR. Chairs were attached by square headed bolts passing through a ribbed square washer under the sleeper and secured by a nut as you have got. I don't remember the washer on top though!
I'll look at the GW study group trackwork book later.
Simon