54A diesel workbench
- Thread starter FiftyFourA
- Start date
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Hi Peter
The secret to delrin chain is to add a chain tensioner after you have fitted the chain.
It is almost always impossible to get the tension on the chain just right, too tight is just as bad as too loose. So I fit mine a little on the loose side as it's much easier to fit and then I add a chain tensioner to take up the slack and get the tension just right. I tend to turn up a piece of brass in the lathe from some 6mm rod thinning down to about 3mm but leaving a full width base. I then just super glue this in position. There are lots of other ways to achieeve this though you could just drill a hole in the chassis side and push some 2mm rod through, I have seen others use a brass plate bent over and glued to t he top of the chassis.
Richard
The secret to delrin chain is to add a chain tensioner after you have fitted the chain.
It is almost always impossible to get the tension on the chain just right, too tight is just as bad as too loose. So I fit mine a little on the loose side as it's much easier to fit and then I add a chain tensioner to take up the slack and get the tension just right. I tend to turn up a piece of brass in the lathe from some 6mm rod thinning down to about 3mm but leaving a full width base. I then just super glue this in position. There are lots of other ways to achieeve this though you could just drill a hole in the chassis side and push some 2mm rod through, I have seen others use a brass plate bent over and glued to t he top of the chassis.
Richard
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I found this out with my GE 70T diesel so I made up some 'slipper blocks' / tensioners from scrap nickel silver and brass channel.
Post #400 on my P48 thread here.
FiftyFourA
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the interest guys.
It must have beginners luck because the chain seems to be 'just right' on the Class 24 power bogie, just tight enough without being too tight. It moves so smooth quiet as well - I have put in a link to the video I took last Saturday at Carlisle running day (the loco runs just after the noisey Peak). Its the first time I have tried this type of link so I hope it works
.
In fact, it was so quiet I forgot about it running round and it was only when I looked at the footage while editing that I realised it ran for about an hour and a half and the motor was barely above cool.
However, I do 'get' the use of a tensioner when the 'sweet spot' is between a link (link 'in' and it is too slack, link 'out' and it is too tight).
Richard, I like your idea, any chance of you putting a piccie to explain to an old fuddy-duddy like me. JB, like your idea as well, but as this is one of Mr Waterman's plastic chassis can you recommend any really low melt solder I could use
.
Sorry mate, just had to put that bit in. You will be pleased to know that I am working today on the baseboard (singular) for my scale 7 layout. Hopefully it will be finished (the baseboard not the layout!) by tonight so I will take some piccies tomorrow and put on that thread (New S7 Layout ) if the weather is OK.
Peter
It must have beginners luck because the chain seems to be 'just right' on the Class 24 power bogie, just tight enough without being too tight. It moves so smooth quiet as well - I have put in a link to the video I took last Saturday at Carlisle running day (the loco runs just after the noisey Peak). Its the first time I have tried this type of link so I hope it works
.In fact, it was so quiet I forgot about it running round and it was only when I looked at the footage while editing that I realised it ran for about an hour and a half and the motor was barely above cool.
However, I do 'get' the use of a tensioner when the 'sweet spot' is between a link (link 'in' and it is too slack, link 'out' and it is too tight).
Richard, I like your idea, any chance of you putting a piccie to explain to an old fuddy-duddy like me. JB, like your idea as well, but as this is one of Mr Waterman's plastic chassis can you recommend any really low melt solder I could use
.Sorry mate, just had to put that bit in. You will be pleased to know that I am working today on the baseboard (singular) for my scale 7 layout. Hopefully it will be finished (the baseboard not the layout!) by tonight so I will take some piccies tomorrow and put on that thread (New S7 Layout ) if the weather is OK.
Peter
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Peter
The big advantage of the chain tensioner is that it allows you to deliberately add an extra link or two, that makes it easy to join the chain.
I'm away on holiday at the moment but I will add something when I get back.
JB's soldered nut won't work on a JLTRT chassis, but a nice idea for bras ones.
Richard
The big advantage of the chain tensioner is that it allows you to deliberately add an extra link or two, that makes it easy to join the chain.
I'm away on holiday at the moment but I will add something when I get back.
JB's soldered nut won't work on a JLTRT chassis, but a nice idea for bras ones.
Richard
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Peter
Here's a photo of mine I found from an earlier thread.
You can see the 2 bits of brass that glued to t he chassis sides to tighten the chain.
Richard
Here's a photo of mine I found from an earlier thread.
You can see the 2 bits of brass that glued to t he chassis sides to tighten the chain.
Richard