7mm 7mm Mick's Workbench - JLTRT Royal Scot

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Cheers Steph,

All being well things should fit. I have a shopping list for LG which at the minute totals around £200, the inside motion for the G5 is amongst this lot. until the funds become avaliable and I have the parts in my hand i'm working in the dark a little but i'm not going too far with the frames so this shouldn't be an issue. My intentions are basically to steal ideas of JB ( driving the crank axle by other means ) and yourself ( adhesive on the crank axle ) as this is my first working inside motion S7 build, only a vertical learning curve so not to worry  :headbang: :)) :))

ATB Mick
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
7mmMick said:
...as this is my first working inside motion S7 build, only a vertical learning curve so not to worry...
ATB Mick

Ouch.

Do let us know if we can help further.  Couple of things that may give you help now:  First up, most of the LG crank axles come up about 20 - 21mm wide if you're using the newer castings with nickel-silver (rather than phosphor-bronze) cranks.  Secondly, the clearances around the connecting rod big ends/crank cheeks will generally prevent you from having any sideplay on the crank axle without binding; so it's worth planning to remove any sideplay in the chassis on this axle.  You generally don't want the cranks striking the inside of the chassis/hornblocks if it can be avoided either.

I hope that helps, but also appreciate it may be complete nonsense until you've got the parts in front of you!

Steph
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
It seems like an age since I posted anything, with having little Oliver to look after ( who is now sleeping through  ;D ) and laying turf and other gardening jobs there's been little time for modelling. So here's a bit of an update.......

I'm well on with the G5 bogie and the frames are together at a basic level, she's starting to look like a G5 now,

[attachimg=1]

I took quite a few pictures of the new build G5 bogie at shildon and have used these and drawings to try and get my effort looking something like. The kit provides several laminations to offer a representation but instead i've used these and some LG brass springs along with some scratch parts to try and offer something more acurate? The hornblocks will be sprung when I decide how to retain them within the guide, any ideas chaps ?

[attachimg=2]

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I've also doen a bit on the J73 at long last, it doesn't look like much but there's a few hours work here, the brass cab rear is left over from the G5 build so will be used here

[attachimg=5]

Here is the footplate and the cab/tank sides laminated together, I now need to cut out the cab openning

[attachimg=6]

ATB Mick
 

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,  glad to here that you are back at it. The bogie really does look the business.

A question re the J73 if I may? Have you not made it a bit harder for yourself by not cutting the hole in the footplate before attaching the valences or am iI missing something? It's all looking very nice in any event. :thumbs: :thumbs:
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Snap !!  :thumbs:

JB.

 

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7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Like it JB, I wish I'd had your pictures before I did mine :headbang:, I thought about springing mine from the outside beams, not sure it'll work  :scratch: Are your hornblcoks removable ? I was going to permenantly fix mine in, is this a good idea?

Cheers Mick
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
7mmMick said:
I'm well on with the G5 bogie and the frames are together at a basic level, she's starting to look like a G5 now,

The hornblocks will be sprung when I decide how to retain them within the guide, any ideas chaps ?
Excellent work Mick :thumbs: as for the bogie horn blocks mate JB's used the best method :thumbs: ( see his pic's)
Look forward to the next instalment ;D

Col.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
They are unremovable really... unless you unsolder the retaining rod at the bottom of the cutout.

Do we really need to be able to remove these hornblocks ? These engines aren't going to be running for hours at a time at full speed..  :scratch:

JB.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I admire the workmanship, but wonder if at that sort of wheelbase you need to make the bogies of 0-4-4Ts compensated or sprung?

I never bothered in P4 and the couple I made both ran well (and pulled too!). Split axles on the trailing truck were a real help too...

Steph
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Scale7JB said:
They are unremovable really... unless you unsolder the retaining rod at the bottom of the cutout.

Do we really need to be able to remove these hornblocks ? These engines aren't going to be running for hours at a time at full speed..  :scratch:

JB.

I thought as much mate, i'll solder mine up later, I was a little worried about the painting stage  :scratch: I'll follow your lead mate, cheers  :thumbs:

eastsidepilot said:
Excellent work Mick :thumbs: as for the bogie horn blocks mate JB's used the best method :thumbs: ( see his pic's)
Look forward to the next instalment ;D

Col.

Thanks Col, I hope it's a bit quicker this time  :))

Rob Pulham said:
Hi Mick,  glad to here that you are back at it. The bogie really does look the business.

A question re the J73 if I may? Have you not made it a bit harder for yourself by not cutting the hole in the footplate before attaching the valences or am iI missing something? It's all looking very nice in any event. :thumbs: :thumbs:

Hi Rob, long time no speak, hope all in well with the garage conversion  :thumbs: There's every chance I have made it a bit harder but my plan was to stop there with the footplate, then build the cab/tank/bunker assembly, then the frame and offer up and measure up so I get the cut out bang on. To be honest mate i'm learning as I go with help from the lads on here so this is by no means a 'how to do it' guide  :)). Fingers crossed it'll come out ok  :scratch: :))

ATB Mick
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
I admire the workmanship, but wonder if at that sort of wheelbase you need to make the bogies of 0-4-4Ts compensated or sprung?

I never bothered in P4 and the couple I made both ran well (and pulled too!). Split axles on the trailing truck were a real help too...

Steph

Hi Steph, the bogies that we are doing will be sprung and supporting the weight of the rear of the engine, JLTRT..  :thumbs:

JB.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
JB,

The brass rod through the angle, does it work up and down with the hornblock/fixed to the hornblock or is it only a short peice to locate the spring?

Cheers Mick
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
JB,

I'm firmly in favour of getting trailing trucks to support the back of 0-4-4Ts - it's about the only way to get them to pull reliably.  On my models I went for a pair of beams across the driving axles and a single fixed point in the centre of the bogie.  That way I new that 2/3rds of the locos all-up weight was always on the drivers. I do the same trick in reverse on 4-4-0s too.

I suspect we're all in violent agreement in fact - after all most of the time the springs or compensation methods you're using on the trailing trucks will be pretty-much fully compressed most of the time.

Just for ref - here's a Drummond bogie made as I propose. This one for a D15 4-4-0, so has a little sideplay..:

 

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Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Yes, the rod retains the spring and is attached to the brass hornblock.

I drill a tiny hole in the top and solder in some wire with a little 188 solder past so it'll never come out.. Seems to work okay..

Bogie looks lovely Steph.. At the moment i have attached some plunger pickups to mine for pickup, though I'm not overly happy with them, I might swap the plungers for some Slaters plastic (brass lined) hornblocks and use some split axles.. I'm rather a big fan of them..

JB.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
I know I haven't posted an update for an age but here's a few picture to prove I have been busy. I've been finishing off some F/S wagons as descibed else where. The pictures aren't great as the light is poor and they would look much better on an over grown siding but I don't have and have to settle for the work top :headbang:

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ATB Mick
 
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