Amanda's Workshop: Scratchbuilding Toward A Layout

[WM183]

I printed a run of 5! They came out pretty good, but some droop in some places? The droop on the flat flange visible in the closeup goes away from the supports? Should I print them at an angle?

 

[Rob R]

They look fine.
Nobody is going to be looking too closely when they are buried inside the underframe and covered in grot.

Your inner pedant may not agree however.....

 

[WM183]

So now to try to print trucks. If I can successfully do that the only thing I will need to buy from the US should be rail and wheels - I can get my beloved Kadee couplers here in Europeland. I am going to 3d print ties for my layout, complete with tie plates! That should work well as a support for handlaid tracks. I can even 3d print out sleepers with plates, etc for turnouts, I suppose?

 

[Rob R]

Main thing to consider for sleepers/ties is shrinkage. The last thing you want is undergauge track.

 

[WM183]

So!

I am working on making a jig to make some Proto 48 drivers, and its going well but SLOW. My little Unimat just complains even to take 0.2mm at a pass on aluminum, and the motor gets so hot so quickly. The unimat is wonderful for my 2mm stuff, but...

I need a bigger lathe. A stronger lathe.
Ideally something with actual MT tailstock and spindle, capable of machining steel and iron if required. I'd like to stay under 1k euro for the lathe.
Emco lathes are common here (Netherlands) but sadly Myfords are just out of my price range. South Bend is almost unheard of. Should I look at a chinese lathe, or an Emco Compact 8?

Amanda

 

[Hawkeye]

So!

I am working on making a jig to make some Proto 48 drivers, and its going well but SLOW. My little Unimat just complains even to take 0.2mm at a pass on aluminum, and the motor gets so hot so quickly. The unimat is wonderful for my 2mm stuff, but...

I need a bigger lathe. A stronger lathe.
Ideally something with actual MT tailstock and spindle, capable of machining steel and iron if required. I'd like to stay under 1k euro for the lathe.
Emco lathes are common here (Netherlands) but sadly Myfords are just out of my price range. South Bend is almost unheard of. Should I look at a chinese lathe, or an Emco Compact 8?

Amanda

I have no personal experince with the Emco Compact 8, but this article might be of interest:

Emco Compact 8 Lathe & Clones

Emco Compact 8 Lathe<br>- also badged as the Craftsman 549 -

www.lathes.co.uk

 

[bambuko]

Emco every time over cheap Chinese shite.
Chinese machine tools for hobbyists are really kits of parts to be used for re-building project.

 

[-missy-]

Hi Amanda.

Thats weird. I have machined parts for a Stuart 10v on my unimat lathe, the cast iron flywheel for it had mm of clearance on the bed!

If the motor is under powered and running really hot, I would check the brushes and also clean the inside of the motor. I found that mine chews through brushes and deposits the resultant carbon dust throughout the inside of the motor causing it to eventually run really poorly.

Julia.

 

[WM183]

Hi Julia,

I got there in the end. I think I just need to keep in mind it's a small lathe, and won't take big cuts. Out of curiosity, have you ever turned steel of any kind? I managed to machine the backplate on mine to fit the collet chuck I got, but it was like... 0.05mm at a pass.

It runs ok, and I checked the brushes - lots of life left. Just not much power, which... I guess is just a Unimat. It does make a nice surface, and seems plenty rigid, so I like it quite a bit. It's fine for normal model rail stuff like brass, so I suppose I should just stay in its lane =D

Amanda

 

[WM183]

The jig comes along. The next step is to set the Unimat up as a mill, and drill the holes around the perimeter where the spokes will meet the rim, then mill the boss in the center for the hub/crank eccentric and drill a hole for the location of the crankpin. Then I can mill the slots for the spokes. I have a 30 tooth dividing wheel, so the slots for the spokes, and the crankpin between two spokes, will be simplicity! I just need to figure out how to control depth, as my milling setup does not have a fine depth control (yet).

Gotta love the finish though... Aluminum machines SO nicely!

 

[WM183]

Fine depth control located and purchased. Update in a couple days when it arrives!!