An Occasional Series: By Jonte

jonte

Western Thunderer
Perhaps in hindsight, the title might sound a little grand, but hopefully reflects what I intend as a suitable heading for a thread, chronicling my ‘occasional’ endeavours to create a (small) scene, or two, which - hopefully - I will be in a position to offer for sale; or not, perhaps.



And ‘occasional’ will be the operative word, as I continue with my current venture; taking into account my glacial pace.



Having surveyed ‘the market’, I intend to aim my model at the RTR end of the spectrum, which I feel is not only an area with which I am most familiar, but seems to provide the most popular outlet for the hobby in general, too.



Additionally, it’s an opportunity to part with an accumulation of models, constructed over a period time, with the intention of adding an additional new item or two, perhaps to enhance the scene. And of course, ‘scene’ provides an ample opportunity to provide closure on a number of separate items at once (which, for somebody who prefers to bin rather than sell is an added bonus), as well as providing an alternative to just concentrating on a single subject, which can lead to mundanity.



So that’s the thinking; now here’s the doing:



No.1 in the ‘Occasional Series’: The Shed



I’ve often considered creating a ‘shed’ scene, and this plan found in the ‘Small’ section of the illustrated Peco layouts book, nicely fits the bill. I hope nobody minds my posting the plan/picture here, which I do so purely for reference purposes, although I will remove if required to do so and just make written reference:

FF972F67-CDCE-4B62-8CB6-6FBD5112453B.jpeg



I think the diminutive size would appeal to any prospective ‘small layout’ customer, as well as a not too daunting affair to start off with.



I plant to build as per plan, however with one or two small changes: the rear-most line would be elevated on an embankment to provide a backdrop, and an opportunity to construct a ‘Stratford-upon-Avon’ coal hoist/water tower. This, of course, would require re-siting it from the position on the plan. An alternative structure or two would need to be provided in lieu to balance the scene, and perhaps provide a handy screen behind which to hide the integrated controls.



Of course, the primary part of the plan involves the use of a turntable, which provides a wonderful opportunity to construct my Peco kit, that has seen many plans for its use shelved on more than one occasion. About twelve months ago, when commencing my current layout, I had plans to incorporate it, which saw me going to the lengths of trying to motorise it (I’d also purchased the Expo motor and gears, but was put off by the negative ‘press’ received on the various fora).

In my quest, I discovered an article linked to Model Trains Catalogue on the basics of how to motorise the turntable via a stepper motor and something called an ‘Arduino’. As this was a language I couldn’t comprehend, I followed the instructions as best I could before ordering several parts from as far away as Hong Kong (I waited months for the arrival of a ‘collar’, for instance, which to my own credit, was the result of quite a lot of research - the article suggested drilling out the plastic spindle holder provided in the kit, but with only basic tools and a kitchen table to work from, I knew this was fraught!). Incidentally, by the time the collar arrived I’d moved on, resigned to consigning the idea of using the turntable to the ether. However, when I rediscovered it yesterday, I was delighted to discover that I had ordered correctly for once; it was a neat fit onto the stepper motor spindle, the top end being ‘stepped-down’ to the 4mm diameter required for the turntable spindle. I was soon disappointed to discover that a metal spindle isn’t supplied with the kit: but then I remembered the Expo kit!



I’ve made a start on the turntable, racing ahead of the order of instructions by constructing the circular base first, which was belted and braced by using two part epoxy resin to supplement the styrene adhesive. The fit isn’t the best, but for once, the priority was to ensure that it was totally flat,as stressed in the many ‘how-to’s’ available. I’ll open out the joints later with a triangular file to increase the surface area, before filling with plastic filler:

7DEB125E-48A1-4A2B-9268-CE89924D35DF.jpegB61EEC31-46A0-4A9E-97C5-047D9E6F6C79.jpeg



I won’t lengthen my first post with a blow by blow of intentions, but needless to say I will be making slight ‘aesthetic’ changes to the turntable’s appearance; the chunky hand rails will need attention for starters.



As mentioned, the turntable remains the priority, so it’s vital that it works and does so efficiently i.e. turns at an appropriate speed and lines up with each road automatically. To that end, I shall be seeking the advice of my nephew to ensure that the ‘free to use’ PC programme recommended is correctly installed, and to vet the list of parts already purchased (as well as to see if I’ve omitted others).

Technical/mechanical parts obtained thus far:

C0190600-62ED-47EE-B862-762D91183C14.jpeg

From left to right: Stepper motor, Collar with grub screws, potentiometers to control rate of turn and breadboard (?). Think I need the Arduino board, a shield and some ‘ribbons’?

Motor details:

44FC3E2B-4CD1-42E4-ABC4-92A3947BF87A.jpeg


If, in the event, things don’t go according to plan with the online advice, I shall cut my losses and opt for the self-indexing system offered by Locotech. Watch this space.



Elsewhere, I shall use the train shed I constructed a couple of years or so ago (originally as a station roof) for the engine shed, which will be left open on the viewing side for the operator to ‘enjoy’ the interior:

F3E16143-DBBA-40D7-A5BD-96C32A9EC4BC.jpeg

Of course, as it’s intended use has changed, there will be a requirement to provide additions such as venting-stacks and ‘hoods’, which I plan to construct from styrene.



And of course, I shall need to give some further thought to the choice of track, and here , I would be delighted to hear the thoughts of any kind soul taking the trouble of reading this.



Options:



Setrack (as per original plan)?



Code 100 Streamline (latest range)?



Peco Code 75 - Finescale?



Peco B/Head?



I’ve a feeling Setrack would be best, as any potentially interested party may still have coarser wheel sets to contend with, with the benefit being that the layout size wouldn’t be compromised.



Talking of size, I’d be building my own baseboard, having had the sections cut to size by my local wood yard. Two reasons: I’m not sure whether the proprietary MDF baseboards would sag beneath the turntable, causing a plethora of problems, plus I could offer a short scenicked ‘extension’ on which the operator can place their stock, if so wished, and would be part of the layout in any case.



Electrically, the intention would be for both DC and DCC operation.



So, I’ll leave it there for now, but I do hope some of you will enjoy following the development of my ‘occasional’ asides, as and when time permits, and please don’t forget that your thoughts and generous input are always welcome.



Jonte
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Elsewhere, I shall use the train shed I constructed a couple of years or so ago (originally as a station roof) for the engine shed, which will be left open on the viewing side for the operator to ‘enjoy’ the interior:

Nice to see the wonderful trainshed used albeit with the necessary modifications.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Jonte

I expect you know this already, the coal stage/water tank at S on A is well covered by warwickshirerailways.com.

Good luck with the occasional ventures! Paul
Hi Paul, and thanks for your interest and input!

It is indeed, Paul, and I’ve several of the site’s excellent shots saved for reference and inspiration.

However, as much as I’d like to build it as it appears, I think that I’m going to have to keep a mind to building the whole model with a view to the ‘generic’, in order to widen any interest and increase its appeal - if indeed it generates any!

To that end, I’m probably going to slope the roof rather than fashion the curve of the original (which I prefer - the original, that is), and therefore won’t require any modification to the Dapol/Airfix water tank I’ll be using (I’ve several spare parts left over in the spares box, so it would be a prime opportunity to use them up). Another departure from the S and A prototype will be the two tone colours of the GWR water tank, again which I prefer, to be replaced by a standard blue-grey of many other companies.
That said, this would be something else I’d be delighted to hear views on: build it as a GWR/WR based shed as preferred, or generic to widen its appeal?

I’ll try and keep it the same however in all other respects.

Many thanks, Paul, and I hope I can maintain your interest.

Jon
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Nice to see the wonderful trainshed used albeit with the necessary modifications.
Thanks, Dave.

It would have broken my heart to have to have thrown it out.

As I say, I’m not that hot on selling things usually, so inevitably, it would have gone by the board. I’ll also need to get round to painting the barge boards at long last, and distress the fascia to make it more in the fashion of a well-used engine shed.

Thanks for your interest and kind compliment.

Jon
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Preliminaries have been underway to get the project started.

Metal parts have been degreased (including new brass handrails, in preparation for a coat of etched primer) and all plastic parts washed in detergent:

C228104E-EC8C-49A8-87BF-41DB4A69A76C.jpeg

I was curious to see how I’d fare with a procedure to replace the somewhat cumbersome moulded hand rails of the kit with some slimmer brass wire; also I wanted to see whether the result would be acceptable. A sharp Stanley knife, miniature file and a ‘small’ drill already in the chuck of my pin vice were the tools of choice, together with a modelling saw to remove the quite stout connections to the sprue (Xuron type cutters proved a tad agricultural for the task), and also to remove the moulded handrails from each stanchion.

A couple of hours work, with a break in between, saw the stanchions separated from the moulded rails, tidied up and two holes drilled in each stanchion to accept the new ‘rails’. This was aided by a guide made from a length of cork tile, with marks made on graph paper using the second set of rails in the kit as a template.

A side point: a couple of holes will need to be redrilled as there wasn’t a lot of meat to prevent the bit from wandering, so will be refilled with plastic putty and redrilled. I’m quite surprised that only a couple of holes were involved:

6125C33A-862F-4E93-A87B-4E150E8CF44A.jpeg

A trial fit of the rails:

DFCEDFFB-D688-4FEA-9CF7-EA22716682C2.jpeg

I think they look okay; they’re a little more acceptable than the moulded rails that came with the kit in any case.

I’ve also undertaken a little more decision making with regard to how the project will progress.

First, I’m going to abandon the experimental approach to the turntable operation mentioned in my last and replace the idea with a Locomotech self-indexing unit, whilst exploring the use of a DCC conversion kit for it in the process. It’s not the technology involved I doubt, but the mechanical side of things, especially as to how to attach the motor to the unit whilst reducing torque. I’ve an idea or two in mind, however, as this is intended for a prospective customer, I want to make every effort to ensure that everything works as it should; each and every time. If it was I who was purchasing, I’d expect nothing less.

I’ve also decided on the use of code 100 Streamilne track. The short radius variety isn’t much greater in length than the ‘plan’s’ intended Setrack, essential to ensure this remains a ‘small’ layout as intended (although some greater width required for the engine shed will slightly increase the width), but providing better running qualities with its electrofrog and slightly tighter flangeways.
Bullhead - of which I have several - would be a preference, but compromises the dimensions of the layout in terms of length, while restricting the use of different types of RTR locos, especially those with deeper flanges.

So that’s it for now; a start has been made.

I have to admit that I’m quite enthusiastic, but mindful that there is a pressing need elsewhere.

Jonte
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Good luck with this Jonte, its always down to spare time isn’t it.
You need more than I can spare to make fast progress but little and often gets you some way too.
John Simpson I think his name is, is a serial diorama builder he uses FB groups widely to show his progress then sells them. His are speculative none commission builds so I think there is a market for this.
Watching with interest.
 
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jonte

Western Thunderer
Good luck with this Jonte, its always down to spare time isn’t it.
You need more than I can spare to make fast progress but little and often gets you some way too.
John Simpson I think his name is, is a serial diorama builder he uses FB groups widely to show his progress then sells them. His are speculative none commission builds so I think there is a market for this.
Watching with interes.
Hi, Ade, and thank you for your support and encouragement.

‘None commission’ is precisely where I’d like to be - just to test the water - so your input is most welcome. It’s also an opportunity to enjoy some more modelling, so I’ll check it out.

Cheers.

Jon
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Making use of a spare minute or two, and taking advantage of the recent dry spell, I gave the parts a token priming:

FDF43281-9047-4402-B8F9-7644B702EA9F.jpegD8DB9DC6-0AE4-4D3A-B134-A680B9F41870.jpeg

The handrail wires have been acid etched and primed.

Curiosity saw me making a start on the instructions, this time at the beginning, by gluing the girders to the deck:

5FF5F310-5F88-4356-B413-282F3A8AD445.jpeg

The oversized looking rivets have been removed from the ‘wooden’ deck, using a blade and sanding with fine modelling wet and dry.

This is far as I can go for now until I receive the Locomotech unit. The advantage here is that the pivot (axle), on which the deck rotates, can be inserted into the spigot beneath the deck without risking damage to the deck or fine details such as the handrails. The spigot can be seen alongside the underneath of the deck in this next shot:

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In a spare moment or two in between waiting for the unit to arrive, I’ll probably apply a coat of paint/weathering to certain parts which will become more inaccessible once attached to the model, such as the wheels.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
A couple of spare hours over the last couple of days saw me start to address the weathering and painting, especially to the wheels, which will be easier to affect before they’re finally fitted.

The edges of the wheels were painted in Humbrol Gunmetal, which will be polished once the painting is finished, and masked off with fine Tamiya masking tape. Even so, several thin lengths had to be spliced such was the slim surface area to be protected.

The whole set of parts was then given a hand painted base coat of a dark rust formed of a mix of Humbrol 160, 70 & 33 over which lighter shades of rust will be sprayed. The amount of black added to the mix was varied as I went along but I’m not sure it’s noticeable:

C7E800FD-9CEC-4943-8C23-0BEE003942DB.jpeg

The axle retainers will need re-doing as I’ve just noticed that the tops have mould lines which will need removing.

I keep a handy ready reckoner of colours that mix to form a variety of rust shades:

CD233671-7BF9-468F-A623-1FA3D829CC84.jpeg

There’s nothing wrong with proprietary brands to use straight out of the tin, but I feel that availability of one or two more shades provides greater depth.

I hope others may find it of use.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Progress is slow but steady, with time at ‘the bench’ difficult to find at present.

Still, a base has been laid - after sifting through tens of pictures of real turntables - upon which the top coat can be applied. Then it will require distressing before final assembly:

D1FABF49-1B6F-4C80-8AB0-160882CAC884.jpeg960333F9-4F55-4B25-98C0-21CF0A4909AD.jpeg0BB27307-9C3B-4FD4-8547-A4BAC56FAC73.jpeg90DC9AF5-D9CF-4F28-88BA-4581FBECF503.jpeg

The top deck will have separately applied boards:

ABB887DB-2AA8-4C59-8B91-392F467F9A1B.jpeg

I’m also pleased to report that the Locomotech system (Deluxe) is now in my possession, such that assembly - when the time comes - will hopefully be completed without having to wait around for additional parts to arrive.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Spent the day doing a bit of catching up.

Had a bit of an accident with the plastic spigot bearing in the Peco turntable kit.

Having made a witness mark to the required length on the steel axle in the Locotech kit, I decided to do a dry run. It was obvious that a hole of sufficient width would be required below the bearing plate on the bench so that it wouldn’t foul, and to allow the axle to descend into the hollow shaft, such that it would protrude to the required length.
I gingerly tapped it home with a pin hammer, ensuring that the pin remained at a right angle to the plate of the spigot bearing. Fine and dandy, I then tried removing it to apply the rather expensive adhesive I’d bought as recommended in the instructions. Only it wouldn’t budge. I then noticed than in my vain attempt to evacuate it, I’d split the base of the hollow shaft of the bearing plate where it meets the base. Reaching for the epoxy, I made good, before rigging up a makeshift jig which would ensure the shaft and spigot remained at ninety degrees to the base while drying:

E9BA5FBC-0CE5-4525-9FA6-FAA4B02B0A2B.jpegBCE0ACB8-0CF3-4CBF-805A-10CD04C51E36.jpeg

As there’s absolutely no chance of removing the steel spigot without causing further damage, I decided to apply epoxy around the junction of shaft and spigot at its base. Frankly, it’s belt and braces as the friction fit would have proved more than adequate IMHO. Fingers crossed all is well when it dries.

Elsewhere, a top coat of weathered black, formed of Matt black, grey and leather acrylics, was applied to the parts; this would appear to be a common colour for the steel bridges of turntables:

3D8BCA3C-E258-4471-988D-02C8513CC540.jpeg7B2DD613-3430-4B55-9250-94B498D72BAF.jpeg8FF3F708-A02B-4A58-8F40-F1D9D1B3B719.jpegA4DDC32E-A463-4EF2-9A4D-54C1A8AB6693.jpeg

The masking tape that had protected the gunmetal paint on the wheel rims was removed and the surface polished with a cotton bud:

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Dry brushing and washes can now be applied.

Jonte
 

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jonte

Western Thunderer
I was fortunate enough to be able to get a good go at this today, bearing in mind the fiasco involving the bearing plate and steel spigot from the day before.

Transpired it had been a waste of time as the plate fractured once more - despite the epoxy adhesive - as I tried a dry-fit onto the fittings below the deck. In essence, the repair had not only been useless, but hindered the clean fit onto said fittings. To add insult to injury, the Devcon two-part epoxy recommended by the manufacturer, was u/s (the tube containing one of the ‘parts’ seemed to have dried up). Needless to say it was back to using my own epoxy and relying on the tight friction fit, but only after the parts had been cleaned up again using a variety of tools. Thankfully, everything seems plumb and I sincerely doubt that the spigot will work itself free under motion (the deck would disentigrate first!).

The rails were wiped with spirit and the ends of the inside faces tapered, as per the instructions, before fitting to the deck, a dash of epoxy here and there securing them in place. A test for electrical continuity was successfully conducted, the brass pins which provide current to the rails being just visible below the deck in this shot:

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The stanchions have now been separately fitted which will ease the task of priming:

C91CAED6-C652-4EE0-98E4-CB30F63A2E68.jpeg

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Moving on, the rail sides have been Acid etched and primed ready to be painted in a dark rust shade, in order to mask the generous proportions of the code 100:

FF8E7303-6212-4AF7-8FE1-ED4AE116CB3D.jpeg

I’ve noticed that most turntables with the stanchions exposed tend to have extensions angled down to the bridge, so I decided to enclose them with a rail, which will have a bead affixed after the bead itself has been painted:

00D8A149-07B4-4DA1-B1EA-0212F72449DE.jpeg

Planking has started with an effort made to reduce the uniformity of the plastic kit. This is attempted by using section of 4mm width which is reduced to anything from say 3mm to 3.5 mm in width, the section itself being in two depths to represent planks of differing wear and tear. They’ve also been cut to slightly different lengths which hopefully can be seen by the overhangs at their edges. Finally, the surfaces have been sanded to represent grain.

Hopefully, this will all serve to impart an air of age, bordering on the agricultural:

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Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
A rather late entry tonight, to report that the planking of the deck is now complete:

0B68A597-1C82-451C-B30D-3E6A26B52084.jpeg

Hopefully the wear and tear, demonstrated by the somewhat haphazard method of laying the styrene strips, together with the simulated grain of the timbers can be seen in this shot.

The inlaid tracks have also been painted in a darker shade of track colour:

6D66523C-0E51-4CEC-8545-1288E613DA8F.jpeg

Elements on the surface can now be re-masked prior to the deck receiving a coat of primer, then the painting of the stanchions and timbers can begin.

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
The deck has now been masked and primed.

I’d intended to infill between the tracks with chequered plate embossed sheet purchased from Antics (Wills?). However, the more I looked at it the more unsuitable it appeared (looks overscale), so I dug out the thinnest styrene sheet I could find and replicated the dimensions of those in the kit. The idea is to represent the steel ones seen in several examples (I’ve also included some detritus I saw, represented by medium ballast mixed with sand):

D4CC87B1-5F7A-476E-8780-1D69F44A8C2D.jpeg848B8D52-6174-4C3A-8336-2676BBF3882E.jpeg

I might add one or two lumps of coal when I’ve ordered some.

I tried reducing the depth of the styrene sheet further to make it easier to clean the rails, however, it tended to buckle and made gluing a darned sight harder, so the second sheet was just glued down. I can’t tell the difference to be honest.

Whilst on the subject of rail cleaning, I’ve maintained the rather generous flangeways - and overcome the urge to place some detritus inside - of the kit to enable the use of locos of different eras as intended, and to ensure that the paint on adjacent surfaces isn’t removed whilst rail cleaning.

Jonte
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
The deck has now been masked and primed.

I’d intended to infill between the tracks with chequered plate embossed sheet purchased from Antics (Wills?). However, the more I looked at it the more unsuitable it appeared (looks overscale), so I dug out the thinnest styrene sheet I could find and replicated the dimensions of those in the kit. The idea is to represent the steel ones seen in several examples (I’ve also included some detritus I saw, represented by medium ballast mixed with sand):

View attachment 162982View attachment 162981

I might add one or two lumps of coal when I’ve ordered some.

I tried reducing the depth of the styrene sheet further to make it easier to clean the rails, however, it tended to buckle and made gluing a darned sight harder, so the second sheet was just glued down. I can’t tell the difference to be honest.

Whilst on the subject of rail cleaning, I’ve maintained the rather generous flangeways - and overcome the urge to place some detritus inside - of the kit to enable the use of locos of different eras as intended, and to ensure that the paint on adjacent surfaces isn’t removed whilst rail cleaning.

Jonte
Lovely stuff, as ever, @jonte . Artistry, Application, Observation, and the will to see it through. A recipe for success.

Cheers

Jan
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Lovely stuff, as ever, @jonte . Artistry, Application, Observation, and the will to see it through. A recipe for success.

Cheers

Jan
Inspiring, flattering and extremely kind words, Jan; as always I’m sincerely grateful for your valued interest and support.

I have to admit that researching the plethora of online information kindly shared, is an interest all of its own. It’s just a shame that there’s just TOO much detail to model!

Thanks again, Jan.

Jonte
 
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