mike evans
Active Member
Thanks Simon
Building a shay locomotive
- Thread starter mike evans
- Start date
mike evans
Active Member
Thanks Simon
The only criteria I cannot meet is the 6000 rpm (only have 1400)
But, as you say, 304 is easier than 316 so I will order the milling cutter and let you know how I get on.
Mike
Problem solved.
Mike
The only criteria I cannot meet is the 6000 rpm (only have 1400)
But, as you say, 304 is easier than 316 so I will order the milling cutter and let you know how I get on.
Mike
Thanks for your help on this one Simon. The end Mill arrived this morning and the stainless milled up a treat .
Problem solved.
Mike
mike evans
Active Member
Although I haven't posted for 3 or 4 weeks, steady progress has been made on the Shay.
Here are a few photos showing the work to date.
The smoke box, smoke box door and the smoke stack are now finished, The hinges and fixing clamps on the smoke box door are dummy, the front is removed by unscrewing 2 socket head screws. The idea is to allow good access to the smoke box for fitting the plumbing.
I have made the fire grate and ash pan which hinge independently and drop by pulling a spring loaded knob.
The ash pan is made from 2mm brass sheet folded and silver soldered together.
The ash pan is 100mm long, rather than cut individual parts I annealed the brass and , using my 300mm long shear, press brake and roll machine
managed to press the brass to about 75 degrees.
The next task to make the drain cock, water site gauge and the blower pipe work.
The glass tube has yet to be cut to length, which will be done much later on in the build (don't want to break it).
The parts for the water gauge were quite fiddly to make but the end result seems OK
That's about it at the moment. Some bits and pieces to make and complete then the cab is next on the list.
Hope you found this interesting
Mike
Here are a few photos showing the work to date.
The smoke box, smoke box door and the smoke stack are now finished, The hinges and fixing clamps on the smoke box door are dummy, the front is removed by unscrewing 2 socket head screws. The idea is to allow good access to the smoke box for fitting the plumbing.
I have made the fire grate and ash pan which hinge independently and drop by pulling a spring loaded knob.
The ash pan is made from 2mm brass sheet folded and silver soldered together.
The ash pan is 100mm long, rather than cut individual parts I annealed the brass and , using my 300mm long shear, press brake and roll machine
managed to press the brass to about 75 degrees.
The next task to make the drain cock, water site gauge and the blower pipe work.
The glass tube has yet to be cut to length, which will be done much later on in the build (don't want to break it).
The parts for the water gauge were quite fiddly to make but the end result seems OK
That's about it at the moment. Some bits and pieces to make and complete then the cab is next on the list.
Hope you found this interesting
Mike
mike evans
Active Member
Hit a snag the other day with the back head fire box door hinges.
The hinge bracket needs 2no 2mm holes drilled and reamed for the hinge pin. A standard length and extra long drill bits are not long enough to do this job.
My solution was, using the lathe, drill a 2mm hole in the end of a brass round bar.
Glue the drill bit in the hole using Locktite 638 and then turn down the brass bar to suite.
The bit can be removed if required by some heat
I can now drill the holes and fit the door.
The small holes are 2mm tapped for fixing the door catch and the stainless steel heat guard.
The 2mm pin has to be cut to size and grooves machined for E clips
Hope you found this interesting
Mike
The hinge bracket needs 2no 2mm holes drilled and reamed for the hinge pin. A standard length and extra long drill bits are not long enough to do this job.
My solution was, using the lathe, drill a 2mm hole in the end of a brass round bar.
Glue the drill bit in the hole using Locktite 638 and then turn down the brass bar to suite.
The bit can be removed if required by some heat
I can now drill the holes and fit the door.
The small holes are 2mm tapped for fixing the door catch and the stainless steel heat guard.
The 2mm pin has to be cut to size and grooves machined for E clips
Hope you found this interesting
Mike