Building an Old Originals Ruston 48DS kit (Gauge 1)

[Steve Cook]

Its been nearly a year since I did anything on the Ruston, and although John D's christmas card didn't mention it this time round, thought I ought to get the etches out and carry on.

Nothing too exciting to report, the cosmetic axleboxes were built up from the etches supplied (3 per axle box) - a slightly fiddly job to keep them all aligned whilst soldering - then a quick passs with the file to get rid of the cusps. The footplate was removed from the brass sheet, rivets punched, then the lower edges folded back over themselves and soldered on. A couple of the rivets are very close to the bottom edge, so next time around I'll aim to punch them at the very edge of the half etched holes. The axleboxes were then soldered on, a quick tack joint from the rear, a sanity check to ensure they were lined up (there are half etched lines to help with this on the hidden side of the footplate), then soldered on properly. The sides were then folded down, the footplate resting on a piece of glass with a block of wood underneath to get the clearance for the front buffer beam riser.



The risers for the cab floor have been folded up in the shot above. The front buffer beam was cleaned up, two plates soldered on the rear for supporting the sandboxes and then the assembly soldered to the footplate.



Alas, a quick dry run on the chassis showed that the front sanding pipes I fitted now clash with the sandbox mounting plates - my fault, I deviated from the instructions and didn't double check That'll be tomorrows job then, removing the pipes and mounting them closer to the bottom of the chassis...

Steve

 

[Scale7JB]

Wrong scale Mr JB :wave:

1/32 or 3/8" are your guidelines

Steve

So what is the difference between 1/32 and 10mm scale? 10mm is G1, and 1/32 is......??

JB.

 

[Simon]

So what is the difference between 1/32 and 10mm scale? 10mm is G1, and 1/32 is......??

JB.

........right.

Simon

 

[28ten]

So what is the difference between 1/32 and 10mm scale? 10mm is G1, and 1/32 is......??

JB.

1/32 scale

 

[Steve Cook]

So what is the difference between 1/32 and 10mm scale? 10mm is G1, and 1/32 is......??

JB.

...Gauge 1 Unlike most of the other modelling scales who fix a scale and change the track gauge, Gauge 1 keeps the same track gauge and changes the scale. 1/32 is the correct scale / gauge ratio in the same vein as P4 or S7. It all comes under the Gauge 1 banner, you just model in either 10mm (1/30.5) or 3/8" (1/32 or 9.53mm:foot). Broad church you see...

 

[Steve Cook]

Bit more time at the workbench today, I've left the chassis mods until later as I'm enjoying making shapes with the bodywork

The coupling hook overlays have been soldered to both buffer beams and cleaned up, still not quite the hang of using just the right amount of solder for laminating things together. The bonnet bits were seperated from the etches, cleaned up and had the rivet details punched in. The wire gauze for the front grill was then carefully soldered into place.


A bit of rolling got me roughly the correct curve to the bonnet tops using the handles of my craft knives and a rolling pin - not high tech but seemed to work OK Lots of tack soldering, checking and then seam soldering got everything fixed together. Its shown here after the excess recess on the bonnet has been filed off (gives something to solder the formers into), but there is still some polishing to do to get rid of the file marks on the front grill.



Its starting to look like a Ruston now A bit of filing required to remove the evidence of the half etch lines on the underside of the bonnet, then I can read the next bit of the instructions...

Steve

 

[Steve Cook]

The rivets on the bonnet assembly were masked off with tape to try and reduce the chance of me filing them off (been there, done that) before I shaped as best as I could with a file, then finished off with a bit of 400 wet and dry paper.

Front and Rear of bonnet filed



This photo shows a comparison of those bits done and those left alone



And this is where I stopped and got on with something more interesting



The mounting nuts were soldered onto the footplate next, the only thing I've not found a reference to in John's instructions (functional soldering rather than cosmetic I have to say). Pleased I was awake at this point, would be an arse of a job otherwise
The front and rear cab plates have been cleaned up, rivets punched and the window frames soldered on. The frames are very fragile and need to be cut from the etch rather than snipped, they distort if you do the latter

Laid out on the bench



And just because I can, a quick mock up before dinner



Time to make some gravy...

Steve

 

[Steve Cook]

Bonnet, front cab plate and floor soldered into place now. The whole assembly is bolted to the chassis here to check I haven't introduced any twist into the structure - the front sand pipes have been removed and its resting on the rear ones, hence the 'dragster' look



I've started on the cab interior, but having soldered two bits in place its not worth a photo. The Ruston has had its evening bath in water after a scrub with Viakal, that'll do until tomorrow.
Steve

 

[28ten]

I guess it will be running by this time tomorrow?

 

[Steve Cook]

I guess it will be running by this time tomorrow?

Not if past history is anything to go by
Cab interior, cab sides, cab rear, rear bufferbeam - if I can get those done i'll be happy

 

[Steve Cook]

Cab interior bits and pieces made and soldered in



Cab sides have been cut out and cleaned up, rivet punching next, then fettling to fit.

 

[alcazar]

Interesting litle loco.
I have an Impetus 7mm kit of the Ruston DE165, the ex--WR PWM, or BR 97/65x series shunters, untouched in my cupboard.

I WANTED to REALLY do it justice, but cannot get near one to photograph it in detail.

One place was REALLY unhelpful, I went twice and was refused access both times. Two 150 mile round trips wasted.

 

[Ressaldar]

Interesting litle loco.
I have an Impetus 7mm kit of the Ruston DE165, the ex--WR PWM, or BR 97/65x series shunters, untouched in my cupboard.

I WANTED to REALLY do it justice, but cannot get near one to photograph it in detail.

Hi Alcazar,

would this help

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12a_kingmoor_klickr/6296314441/in/pool-shunters

from memory, there are others in the same 'Shunters' pool

might be worth a look.

cheers

Mike

 

[Steve Cook]

Kind of got carried away with the build today and didn't take many photos, but I'll recap as best as possible. After the interior stuff, the cab sides had the rivets punched through and the handrails added. Half round beading was added to the side of each door opening, then the sides were soldered into place, aligning them with the cab front.



The rear panel and rear buffer beam were then used to check all was still in alignment before the sides were soldered to the floor. After that, the rear cab plate was aligned and soldered to the sides, the buffer beam then being rested up against the rear panel and soldered to the footplate sides.

Stopped for a spot of dinner, forgot to take photos and then assembled the guard irons, radiator brackets, radiator angle plate and then jumped out of sequence to fit the name plates - largely because I didn't fancy building the steps tonight

Its had its nightly bath and a very quick clean - it'll get a proper going over tomorrow morning before I try and finish the body off - going to need a tailwind then

 

[Simon]

Kind of got carried away with the build today and didn't take many photos, but I'll recap as best as possible. After the interior stuff, the cab sides had the rivets punched through and the handrails added. Half round beading was added to the side of each door opening, then the sides were soldered into place, aligning them with the cab front.

View attachment 8168

The rear panel and rear buffer beam were then used to check all was still in alignment before the sides were soldered to the floor. After that, the rear cab plate was aligned and soldered to the sides, the buffer beam then being rested up against the rear panel and soldered to the footplate sides.

Stopped for a spot of dinner, forgot to take photos and then assembled the guard irons, radiator brackets, radiator angle plate and then jumped out of sequence to fit the name plates - largely because I didn't fancy building the steps tonight

Its had its nightly bath and a very quick clean - it'll get a proper going over tomorrow morning before I try and finish the body off - going to need a tailwind then

That looks proper Rustonish, you've made a very neat job and that John Dale is a very talented fellow

Simon

 

[Steve Cook]

That looks proper Rustonish, you've made a very neat job and that John Dale is a very talented fellow

Simon

He is indeed, one could safely say he nailed this one Its a good fun kit to build, easy to man handle around on the workbench and not so large it needs a big iron to solder it together easily. Don't know how he builds 'em in a week though

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Steve, great work as ever - have you thought of converting one of the Guv's 'huts' to an engine shed for it yet? the corrugated roof comes to mind, as does a replacement end for the doors - that sorts out his second kit then.

cheers

Mike

 

[John D]

Don't know how he builds 'em in a week

Not having to worry about instructions helps....it's all somewhere on the dark side of my brain You've done a great job putting it together , can't wait to see it suitably 'weathered'........

 

[Dog Star]

.... have you thought of converting one of the Guv's 'huts' to an engine shed for it yet? the corrugated roof comes to mind, as does a replacement end for the doors

or a replacement end for the end where the buffers went through?

 

[Steve Cook]

Mike, Graham

Nice idea, but the Guv's hut isn't big enough for a Ruston, however little it is

Cheers John Dark side of the brain eh, is that where you keep those French postcard images