spikey faz
Western Thunderer
This is roughly how it looks with the frames moved out to allow for 28mm wide spacers.
Mike
Mike
Crane Locomotives
- Thread starter spikey faz
- Start date
RichardG
Western Thunderer
Mike - backtracking a tiny bit - the etch for the crane jib looks like the one I used on my own "Nellie". If I was building this again I would find some brass tube large enough to accept the stub axles on the gears. Then open out the holes in the etch to accept short pieces of this tube and solder them in. Having done this, the gears can be fixed into the tubes with epoxy glue after panting, and they will be fixed more strongly than if simply glueing them into the etch.
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
I initially made the replacement spacers 28mm wide. 
But after sleeping on it I decided to narrow them a bit, as I'm a bit concerned about the long wheelbase negotiating some of the curves on my layout. A bit of sideplay could come in handy!
Once the hornblocks have been fitted I'll find out whether I’ve calculated this OK or not.
Mike
But after sleeping on it I decided to narrow them a bit, as I'm a bit concerned about the long wheelbase negotiating some of the curves on my layout. A bit of sideplay could come in handy!
Once the hornblocks have been fitted I'll find out whether I’ve calculated this OK or not.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
This picture hopefully shows how long this loco is compared to the much modified Hudswell Clarke that's sitting next to it. 
The Hudswell Clarke negotiates my tortuous track without a problem. But it's a bit shorter!
Mike
The Hudswell Clarke negotiates my tortuous track without a problem. But it's a bit shorter!
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Work has yet to start on the body, but a quick measure of the footplate comes up with 182mm long. The buffer beams appear to be flush with the ends, so you'd just need to add the length of the buffers to each end.
Hope this helps.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
The motor/gearbox is intended to drive the rear driving axle. The resin casting for the boiler has a cutout to allow room for this. I do however like to ponder alternative drive layouts. 
One of which involves driving the rear trailing axle! The motor (or a smaller motor) could be hidden in the housing that supports the crane.
Probably more trouble than it's worth, but it would allow room for working inside valve-gear, which is something I've never attempted before.
If the trailing axle was 1/8" diameter I could possibly sneak a High Level gearbox in there. But the axle is of course 3/16", so it's all probably a non-starter. But it's nice to contemplate and it does keep my brain cells active.
Mike
One of which involves driving the rear trailing axle! The motor (or a smaller motor) could be hidden in the housing that supports the crane.Probably more trouble than it's worth, but it would allow room for working inside valve-gear, which is something I've never attempted before.
If the trailing axle was 1/8" diameter I could possibly sneak a High Level gearbox in there. But the axle is of course 3/16", so it's all probably a non-starter. But it's nice to contemplate and it does keep my brain cells active.
Mike
Giles
Western Thunderer
When I first built my 0-14 crane, I built it with a single axle drive, given that it was never going to haul anything but itself. On test it proved extremely disappointing, constantly slipping 'light engine' - and so I had to retrofit a gear train to to the other axle - whereupon it would pull anything! You could always use a 12v N20 driving through bevel gears?
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
I'm in two minds at the moment. Either go fully experimental with the sort of drive you've suggested, or keep it simple and drive the rear driving axle and pop some sort of dummy inside valve-gear into the chassis.
The lack of traction is a bit of a concern, although it doesn't need to have great haulage power.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Not a huge amount of work achieved, but I'll put some pictures up anyway of what I've done.
I couldn't get on with the method of assembling the splashers. The kit includes overlays to attach to the upright face of the splashers with the curved splasher tops sitting flush with the splasher face. Too much filling and tidying up of gaps for me, so I went my own way by omitting the overlays and fitting splasher tops that go over the splasher face.
It does mean that the splasher tops are a little higher than the prototype.
I've also configured the boiler assembly so that it can be bolted and unbolted rather than glueing it in place. I figure this will make painting a lot easier. The 14ba nuts that are visible on the backhead I'm hoping will be less visible after the cab sides in are place.
Mike
I couldn't get on with the method of assembling the splashers. The kit includes overlays to attach to the upright face of the splashers with the curved splasher tops sitting flush with the splasher face. Too much filling and tidying up of gaps for me, so I went my own way by omitting the overlays and fitting splasher tops that go over the splasher face.
It does mean that the splasher tops are a little higher than the prototype.
I've also configured the boiler assembly so that it can be bolted and unbolted rather than glueing it in place. I figure this will make painting a lot easier. The 14ba nuts that are visible on the backhead I'm hoping will be less visible after the cab sides in are place.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
A start has also been made on the smokebox front.
There's still a lot of work to be done on the chassis, but the warm weather has meant I've spent more time in the garden than at the modelling table.
Mike
There's still a lot of work to be done on the chassis, but the warm weather has meant I've spent more time in the garden than at the modelling table.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
No further progress on the chassis, but I did receive a bag of components from LG Miniatures the other day. Amongst other things the bag contained a replacement dome, which I think is a bit closer to the prototype in height.
I've also remodelled the chimney as the taper on the one in the kit seemed a bit too much. Just my opinion. I suspect there should still be a slight taper, but I lack the skills and equipment to do this.
I do have an alternative chimney, but this has some fancy stuff going on around the top!
Mike
I've also remodelled the chimney as the taper on the one in the kit seemed a bit too much. Just my opinion. I suspect there should still be a slight taper, but I lack the skills and equipment to do this.
I do have an alternative chimney, but this has some fancy stuff going on around the top!
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
I've made a start on the cab side and rear panels. The kit includes a half-etched panel with rivet detail to go on the rear panel. But I decided to omit this and instead add the rivets directly to the rear panel. Unfortunately this decision was made after the rear and side panels were soldered together! Lack of foresight on my part. 
Mike
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Side and rear panels soldered into place along with the base for the crane itself. There's a fair bit of heat soak with all that brass in place and I had to break out the 'Enforcer' to solder some of these parts into place. 
I should really be getting on with the chassis, but when I ordered some parts from Laurie Griffin I noticed he lists coupling rods that I think should fit. I ordered these as well, but they're currently out of stock. Hopefully they should be back in stock soon.
There's nothing wrong with the coupling rods in the kit, but they require several laminations soldered together which inevitably (for me) involves a lot of filing to clean them up. Anything for an easy life!
Mike
I should really be getting on with the chassis, but when I ordered some parts from Laurie Griffin I noticed he lists coupling rods that I think should fit. I ordered these as well, but they're currently out of stock. Hopefully they should be back in stock soon.
There's nothing wrong with the coupling rods in the kit, but they require several laminations soldered together which inevitably (for me) involves a lot of filing to clean them up. Anything for an easy life!
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Laurie of LG Miniatures has informed me that the coupling rods are back in stock, and are on their way to me. I'm looking forward to getting the chassis completed.
In the meantime I've been adding parts to the body.
The backhead, injector and brake standard are all held on place by an assortment of nuts and bolts. Makes it easier (for me) when it comes to painting.
Mike
I'm looking forward to getting the chassis completed.In the meantime I've been adding parts to the body.
The backhead, injector and brake standard are all held on place by an assortment of nuts and bolts. Makes it easier (for me) when it comes to painting.
Mike