Dan’s 7mm Workbench

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Sunday, 23rd February 2025

I don’t seem to have posted much in the way of workbench activity for several years, most likely, because I’ve been flitting between umpteen assorted (and unfinished!), projects with very little to show, or messing around with CAD and 3D printing.

However, I’ve been building an MOK Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0 on and off for about the past four years and it’s been sitting there on my workbench all that time, gathering dust. This is the current state of play….
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About two or three months ago, I did actually crack on with the running plate assemblies and fire-iron tunnel, before other projects got in the way again….
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Before these can be fitted though, I need to join the smokebox/boiler to the firebox and fit the boiler bands, washout plugs etc. Last night, I thought I’d take a look at getting the chimney fitted to the smokebox. However, the hole in the smokebox was much smaller than the internal diameter of the chimney, which would have looked a bit naff when looking down from above.

Therefore, I enlarged the hole in the smokebox with this fellow, until it was a fraction smaller than the hole in the chimney….
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A side effect of this, was a raised burr around the edge of the hole, both inside and out. The inside burr was quite minimal and was removed by sticking a small square of abrasive paper to my middle fingertip with double-sided tape and rubbing vigorously inside the smokebox.

The outside was trickier though, as I didn’t want to use a file and potentially form a series of flats on the surface and I certainly didn’t want to accidentally remove any rivet detail. The burr can be seen here as a whitish outline (with apologies for the smaller pictures - they were taken on my phone and Bluetoothed to my iPad, but seem to have passed through a shrink-ray en route!)….
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I decided to design a tool with a concave surface (the same diameter as the outside of the smokebox, but allowing for the thickness of some abrasive paper and double-sided tape), knocked up a quick drawing of said tool in Fusion 360, then put the 3D printer to work….
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As you can see, I also designed a tool for the inside of the smokebox, with a central spigot to accurately locate the chimney for gluing or soldering.

I printed two of each tool, in case something went Pete Tong, but only needed to use one set in the end. However, I did cut the sanding tool I was using in half, as in its full width mode, it was getting too close to some rivet detail for my liking! The serrated edge gives a nice grip, when pushing to and fro….
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Much better, especially after a bit of buffing with some Brasso wadding….
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Here’s the internal print, doing its job….
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I never got round to attaching the chimney yesterday, but the plan is to clamp it in place over the spigot with a toolmaker’s clamp with a suitable compression spring between (that will fit snugly over the rim), forcing it downwards onto the smokebox whilst the Araldite sets, or the solder melts - I haven’t decided which method I’ll go for yet, but most likely, the latter. :)

That’s all for now - happy modelling!


Regards

Dan
 

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Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Friday, 28th February 2025

Having done the last of four night shifts this week, but not getting much sleep today, it took me a while to get going this evening. However, I was determined to achieve something, no matter how small, so I decided to attach the Ivatt’s chimney. First, I tinned around the chimney base and aperture in the smokebox with 179 degree solder…
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I then inserted the 3D printed alignment jig (seen in the previous post), from below….
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To impart a downward force on the chimney during soldering, I intended to utilise a compression spring in conjunction with a Toolmaker’s clamp, but having tried my local hardware shop recently, without success, I was still lacking the necessary spring. :(

I then had an idea - from time to time, I try to tidy my man cave a little ( :)) ) and keep coming across a small metal torch that I bought a good twenty years ago, but no longer use. Why I haven’t binned it yet, I know not, but having unscrewed the end to expose the battery holder, I found my springing solution, seen here in the foreground….
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Turns out, it was just the right diameter for my needs - result!….
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With everything clamped-up nicely, was time to wield the soldering iron once more and although things were a bit messy once the deed was done, 15 or 20 minutes with a steel scratch pencil soon cleaned off any excess solder….
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Finally, although it’s not a very scientific lash-up, I think the chimney appears to be sitting right, but I’ll check it again, in a day or two….
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That’s all for now - more updates, as and when and if you’re off to Kettering tomorrow, enjoy!


Regards

Dan
 
Last edited:

adrian

Flying Squad
With everything clamped-up nicely, was time to wield the soldering iron once more and although things were a bit messy once the deed was done, 15 or 20 minutes with a steel scratch pencil soon cleaned off any excess solder….
I do like the idea of the 3D printed alignment jig - it has made it a lot easier - however sorry to say this, and I'm not sure how to put this but to be honest the soldering iron looks a little "weedy" for the job. When you started clamping it up I thought you were going to dig out a big iron or microflame torch. For any soldering job I would always recommend applying the heat to the largest component, in this case the chimney. Get the heat into the brass casting and then the solder will flash around the joint.
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
I do like the idea of the 3D printed alignment jig - it has made it a lot easier - however sorry to say this, and I'm not sure how to put this but to be honest the soldering iron looks a little "weedy" for the job. When you started clamping it up I thought you were going to dig out a big iron or microflame torch. For any soldering job I would always recommend applying the heat to the largest component, in this case the chimney. Get the heat into the brass casting and then the solder will flash around the joint.
Hi Adrian

I do have a miniature blowlamp and did consider using it, but wasn’t sure it was really necessary in this instance. Also, though it may not be too clear in the picture, there are some pieces of wooden lolly stick taped to the Toolmaker’s clamp (for some long-forgotten reason) and I figured that, a), This would stop the clamp becoming a heat sink and b), I didn’t want to set the one adjacent to the chimney on fire (though that might have produced some short-lived realism in that particular area!!). :))

I take your point about getting heat into the casting though and also considered using my RSU, but I was simply too lazy to scrabble around under the workbench to plug it in, so I just went for the easy option and cranked up my variable temperature soldering iron to 450 degrees! If the chimney should fall off before the model gets painted though, it probably will be a blowlamp job next time…:)


Regards

Dan
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I’d go with the same lash up and the RSU. To put lots of heat in a very small area, they take a bit of beating.

the jig idea is useful, I think that is an area to be explored further. I did it for the slide bars & motion plates on Chris’ pannier, and it made the job much easier. I guess a threaded hole in the jig, and a screw, washer and spring might be easier than the clamp?
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
I guess a threaded hole in the jig, and a screw, washer and spring might be easier than the clamp?
I hadn’t even thought about that Simon, but it’s a great idea and probably much easier than the lash-up I opted for! That’s the beauty of WT though - the sharing and adaptation of other people’s ideas. :)

Regards

Dan
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Hi Dan,

You can probably print the thread, though it’ll benefit from a tap down it to clean up.

One of my work colleagues has a Bambu (FDM) and he has printed a small desk vice including the threads on nut and screw. You wouldn’t want to use it for heavy work, but his hobby is watches and it’s pretty much ideal for that. I shall use the work Bambu to print some angle blocks with magnets in on Monday, as an assembly aid. Of course the FDM is not so useful when the soldering iron is out!

enjoy your days off!
S
 
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