dltaylor
Western Thunderer
As predicted, the brakegear was a fiddle. The actual parts are very nice; I soldered the brake blocks on one side to their cross-shafts (.7mm brass wire) and threaded them through the etched pull-rods, having opened up the slots sufficiently.
A small block of wood, filed square and to the correct width was used as a spacer to hold the second brake hanger in place for soldering.
You end up with a loose and floppy assembly that needs to be fitted to the loco. This was a right fiddle, threading peices of .5mm wire through the brake hangers and the etched holes in the chassis.
Once in place, you can hold the hangers in the right position relative to the wheels and solder the cross-shafts to the pull-rods. The result, at last, is the single rigid assembly shown, which can be easily fitted and removed from the chassis. The pull-rods could do with being a bit longer at the right hand end, in order to prevent the blocks actually rubbing on the wheels. You can see where I've bent the cranked ends backwards to increase the length where they attach to the chassis below the cab.
Cheers, Dave.
A small block of wood, filed square and to the correct width was used as a spacer to hold the second brake hanger in place for soldering.
You end up with a loose and floppy assembly that needs to be fitted to the loco. This was a right fiddle, threading peices of .5mm wire through the brake hangers and the etched holes in the chassis.
Once in place, you can hold the hangers in the right position relative to the wheels and solder the cross-shafts to the pull-rods. The result, at last, is the single rigid assembly shown, which can be easily fitted and removed from the chassis. The pull-rods could do with being a bit longer at the right hand end, in order to prevent the blocks actually rubbing on the wheels. You can see where I've bent the cranked ends backwards to increase the length where they attach to the chassis below the cab.
Cheers, Dave.