Elmham Market in EM

robertm

Western Thunderer
Some lovely work here Nigel, the whole package, rolling stock and scenery just exudes the special quality of E Anglia and the former GER system.
I am just finishing a Dia 227 compo coach for Felsted and your coaches look so right. Can you remember which shade of brown you used?
Next up will be a Brk/3rd complete with retractable steps to complete my branch line conductor set.
Looking forward to more of Elmham Market.
Bob
 

Joe's Garage

Western Thunderer
Please extend my thanks to your friends coming around as it persuaded you to post some lovely photos of the layout!!
Well done on the driver pass and congratulations.
All the best
Julian
 

James Spooner

Western Thunderer
Some lovely work here Nigel, the whole package, rolling stock and scenery just exudes the special quality of E Anglia and the former GER system.
I am just finishing a Dia 227 compo coach for Felsted and your coaches look so right. Can you remember which shade of brown you used?
Next up will be a Brk/3rd complete with retractable steps to complete my branch line conductor set.
Looking forward to more of Elmham Market.
Bob
Many thanks Bob. The ex GER carriages are all D&S kits, either from my stash which I have been acquiring over the years, or some more recently bought after phone calls with the unfailingly polite and helpful Dan Pinnock. In terms of painting, I tend to use Precision Paints LNER dull teak, with a bit of black and sometimes a small dash of red or crimson. In the D&S instructions Dan suggests something on those lines, described as ‘Stratford Brown’. To be honest, the colour varied a bit by coach (and I’m sure the colour emulsions of the various colour photos of the 1950’s), so mine do to and I’m quite relaxed about that! It would be good to see some photos of your Dia 227.

Nigel
 

robertm

Western Thunderer
Many thanks Bob. The ex GER carriages are all D&S kits, either from my stash which I have been acquiring over the years, or some more recently bought after phone calls with the unfailingly polite and helpful Dan Pinnock. In terms of painting, I tend to use Precision Paints LNER dull teak, with a bit of black and sometimes a small dash of red or crimson. In the D&S instructions Dan suggests something on those lines, described as ‘Stratford Brown’. To be honest, the colour varied a bit by coach (and I’m sure the colour emulsions of the various colour photos of the 1950’s), so mine do to and I’m quite relaxed about that! It would be good to see some photos of your Dia 227.

Nigel
OK, I’ve attached a thumbnail of the dia227 ( D&S kit) as it stands at the moment. It’s painted Humbrol62 leather, which to my eye is too orange. I’ve preshaded the sides and roof with Matt black, top coats still to be applied.
Stratford brown seems to be an elusive shade, everyone seems to have their own version, perhaps like Stratford works.
Also a pic of an exGER clerestory built from an ancient Highfield plastic kit, here I used a darker brown but still not right to me. Finally the 2 together to show the contrast.
I’m very aware of barging into your thread so I’ll resist any more interruptions.
Lots more pics of EM please.
Bob
 

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James Spooner

Western Thunderer
OK, I’ve attached a thumbnail of the dia227 ( D&S kit) as it stands at the moment. It’s painted Humbrol62 leather, which to my eye is too orange. I’ve preshaded the sides and roof with Matt black, top coats still to be applied.
Stratford brown seems to be an elusive shade, everyone seems to have their own version, perhaps like Stratford works.
Also a pic of an exGER clerestory built from an ancient Highfield plastic kit, here I used a darker brown but still not right to me. Finally the 2 together to show the contrast.
I’m very aware of barging into your thread so I’ll resist any more interruptions.
Lots more pics of EM please.
Bob
Hi Bob,

No problem and the more the merrier! I suggest trying the Precision weathered teak as a starting point then adding very small amounts of black and or red to get the tone you want.

As requested I have got my camera out again to shoot some of the action at Elmham Market today. Unfortunately the system is saying the images I am trying to upload are too big so I will need to try go figure as our American cousins would say.

Nigel
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Nigel.
If they're still photos, you can re-size them to a lower pixel count using a photo editing app. I use Microsoft Picture Editor and reduce the photos I post to about 1024 wide (height also reduced in proportion). Makes a big difference to the file size but with some loss of crispness.
There's a guide to all this in the Forum Information & Issues section on the WT home page.
Dave.
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
If you are altering size manually in an editor (e.g. clicking on Tools takes you to an option to alter image size, resolution etc), it pays to check resolution.
A good resolution size to use on here s 72 pixels/inch (a fairly common image resolution), which preserves image quality when posted.
Sometimes for when you transfer say a 72 pixel image file from A to B or from one device to another it might get enlarged to 144 Pixels/inch.
Reducing it from 144 to 72 will reduce file size by around 70%.
 
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James Spooner

Western Thunderer
OK, puzzled of Surrey, I can’t load this file up from my iPhone but if I send it via email back to myself I can post it from my iPad. ‍♂️
I’m not going to risk sending too many photos at once in case they crash but here is the daily pick up goods, coming from the Colchester direction, towards Whitemoor. It will reverse back into the long siding, before hauling out the wagons to be shunted here.
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Nigel
 

Bob Essex

Active Member
OK, puzzled of Surrey, I can’t load this file up from my iPhone but if I send it via email back to myself I can post it from my iPad.

That's because the iphone probably automatically reduces the file size for e-mail. This might be done in a number of ways, reduce the actual pixel size or increase the compression ratio.

Nice shots whatever. Lavenham is a good location to base a layout on given the bridges at each end acting as purpose made framing combined with the interesting track layout. I always feel a shunting horse must have been employed given it's nature.

Bob
 

James Spooner

Western Thunderer
Well playtime is over and after a weekend visiting Mrs B’s kith and kin in Yorkshire I have got back to the workbench. Having got the essentials of a running chassis I thought it might make sense to finish the body, largely so I could work out how to fix the many pipe runs and decide what would be most robust attached to the body and likewise to the chassis.

The footplate castings are now soldered in position, as are the sandpots and their actuating mechanism. The chimney is soldered on and the safety valves fitted. Everything else in the photos is just placed in position so I can start to drill holes in the castings to accept different diameters of wire to represent the pipe work and then bend the wires into shape. This could be a long one!

However, it is beginning to be recognisable as an Ivatt. Most of the castings are pretty good but the smokebox door looks like it has been on a diet as it is definitely too flat when compared to the photos. I think I am going to have to attempt another spun one from plasticard (as I did for the F6).

Nigel

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James Spooner

Western Thunderer
This evening has been spent plumbing in both of the injectors. I snipped off the cast pipes leading to the valve handles in the cab and replaced them with 0.3mm brass wire. The instructions specified 1.0mm wire for the pipework but I felt that was a little oversized and went with 0.8mm. A happy time spent bending wire, drilling out castings and getting the whole thing to fit and look reasonably like my photo of 43089…

Nigel

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