7mm Finney Battle of Britain

mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Simon,

I recently heard someone sprayed WD 40 onto a cotton bud and wiped the wheels with that. The trick is to add a thin barrier to prevent the moisture in the atmosphere having direct contact with the steel.

Oddly other commercially blackened wheels don't suffer from this, unless they are not the same material that Slaters uses.

MD
 
Ressaldar

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
simond said:
Mike

As has been remarked by others, oiling after blacking seems to be the most effective. I used beard clipper oil, but any light mineral oil should do.

Best
Simon
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Hi Simon,

I had finished the blackening process off with the wheels immersed in a bath of 3 in 1 oil and left the wheels to 'dry out' on a double thickness of kitchen roll. It is the fact that only the wheels on one axle are affected as all had the same individual treatment through the blackening and oiling procedure.

regards

Mike
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I have had one axle and wheel do the same and put it down to not oiling it well enough; as it started to corrode just days after blackening. But all the others, and that one once redone, have been fine.
 
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Paul Cambridge

Paul Cambridge

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Thank you, it was a nice model to build for Brian.

For Southern stuff then Steph's your man, he's our dyed in the wool SR experten :thumbs:

Regarding your kits, simple, sell them and just buy the West Country and spend your time on that ;)
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Nice try, but as one of them is an Agenoria PD&SWJR 0-6-2T kit, I'm not parting with it. Incidentally, it will be rather difficult to justify a West Country on my BR(S) twig. I don't believe 21C147 (34047) 'Callington' made it up to its namesake for naming either. But they are fine engines and I would like to model 21C105 'Barnstaple' one day. Your build mickoo has re-kindled a dormant wish.....:D
 
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