in the meantime... Met Manning Wardle Brill No1 OO gauge

Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
While I'm working on getting some etches made for a Metropolitan Class G I thought I would tackle one of the Manning Wardle's which trundled around on the Brill branch back in the day.

IMG_0056.jpgIMG_0057.jpg

It s a K class and I've bought a very nice kit by RT Models which should do the job. I'm impressed with the kit. The quality is excellent, its comprehensive and it caters for quite a few variants.

Gathering the sundries...

As is usual there are still thigs to source.......

1) Wheels. With the very sad demise of Markits (the hobby is diminished without his excellence but I'm not sure that he even did 3' drivers) I've opted for Scalelink drivers. Too many spokes but I'm allergic to Gibsons.

2) Motor. I doubt that anything I've got in stock will fit but I'll make up the chassis and body and take it from there. For some reason, which I've never been able to understand, no kitmaker will ever state an optimal motor/gearbox combo which will fit.

3) I've ordered nameplates. Fox Transfers for the lining. Everything else scavenged from broken RTR models.

IMG_0058.jpg


One things certain. I'm going to enjoy it!





/























/
 
spikey faz

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I've had good results with a Highlevel motor/gearbox combination, albeit in a 7mm/1ft model that used Slaters 1/8" axles. You can download the dimensions off the Highlevel website. I'm sure they'll do something that'll fit your model if you get stuck.

Mike
 
Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
spikey faz said:
I've had good results with a Highlevel motor/gearbox combination, albeit in a 7mm/1ft model that used Slaters 1/8" axles. You can download the dimensions off the Highlevel website. I'm sure they'll do something that'll fit your model if you get stuck.

Mike
Click to expand...
Yes. Thanks. I've printed out the scale diagrams from Highlevel and we will see. I've been studying the kit. The boiler is cast white metal. I can't see how anything can fit without carvery.
 
G

garethashenden

Western Thunderer
I haven't built the K class kit but I did built the I. There is very little room for either a motor or a gearbox. The recommendation in the instructions of a Roadrunner Compact + and 1015 motor vertically in the firebox does work. It just barely works, but it does. I'll try to find some pictures of that build.
Aside from that, the kit went together quite easily.
 
Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
garethashenden said:
I haven't built the K class kit but I did built the I. There is very little room for either a motor or a gearbox. The recommendation in the instructions of a Roadrunner Compact + and 1015 motor vertically in the firebox does work. It just barely works, but it does. I'll try to find some pictures of that build.
Aside from that, the kit went together quite easily.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for that. I'll order one. I take it that the drive is off the middle axle? The frame spacers seem to suggest that's the only option.
 
G

garethashenden

Western Thunderer
That is correct. Having looked through my photos, I don't have anything that shows the motor or gearbox. I was also mistaken as to the kit I built, I built a K class. In EM gauge with no compensation. I think any form of compensation of springing would considerably complicate the build, far more than normal.
 
paulhb

paulhb

Western Thunderer
There is a two part article in MRJ 272 & 273 re a K class built in EM with compensation. Gearbox was to the rear fixed axle although the builder ditched the cast boiler in favour of brass to accommodate the motor. Basically mirroring the build method used by Chris Gibbons in his High Level kits.

Paul
 
Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
First day of my retirement (feels a bit odd!) so I've made a start at last....It's a kit from RT Models and a Hi-Level gearbox

Chassis is nice and square and I now need to decide whether to bother with the inside motion... and the answer is I won't. At least at this stage. Cant see it's possible if, as the instructions say, the best option is to drive it off the middle axle. I'll leave the frames for now until I get to the stage when I can go firm on how to motor it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0075.jpeg
    IMG_0075.jpeg
    314.7 KB · Views: 18
Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
I'm scared of these plastic cantered wheels, I'm used to Markits.... I doubt I can play around taking them off and on the axles trying things out. Though I don't think Markits did 3' drivers?

image.jpg
 
Last edited:
A

Andyj

Active Member
Thanks.
The gearbox is a LoLoader and 1015 motor both from Highlevel. The MRJ articles are in 272 &273.
I've actually got another one that I need to get built soon.
 
Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
Daddyman said:
I used a RoadRunner Compact, driving on the centre axle, with the motor up the firebox, but I may have had more headroom on the "Class L altered" than you will have on the K. Suggest you make peace with Gibsons. View attachment 260917
Click to expand...
Wow! What a beautiful model!, I'm afraid I'm nowhere near the skill level of you guys! But thanks and yes.. the roadrunner compact and motor fits up the firebox so onwards and upwards....
 
Jarmstro

Jarmstro

Member
Daddyman said:
Nowt to do with skill - just bloody-mindedness. No matter how complex a model, you're never joining more than two parts together.



OK, sometimes three parts.
Click to expand...
Or four. I twisted up a coupling rod when drilling out the crankpin holes because of a blunt drill so I'll have to use the split ones.

IMG_0079.jpeg.
 
D

Daddyman

Western Thunderer
Easily done. Solder to a piece of flat scrap considerably wider than the rod to prevent twisting.

I don't think the split rods will work, will they? The knuckle joint is over etched so as to be virtually non-existent. I wanted to use them on Bamburgh but had to split them on the centre crankpin instead and put a dummy knuckle in.

Are you sure you can't twist the problem rod back into true?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top