Intentio 7mm SR Concrete Provender Store

Yorkshire Dave

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Nice to provide some GWR kindling :p.

On the other hand it'll be interesting to see how you finish this one as I suspect there would have been a difference in the ratio of raw materials used between the SR and GW concrete works.
 
Pencarrow

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Yorkshire Dave said:
Nice to provide some GWR kindling :p.

On the other hand it'll be interesting to see how you finish this one as I suspect there would have been a difference in the ratio of raw materials used between the SR and GW concrete works.
Click to expand...
Are you saying that the SR would have used higher quality concrete Dave? Trying to work out if I should be painting a copper rim around the roof of the GWR hut....
 
R

Richard

Active Member
Pencarrow said:
Certainly Mark, it's a very useful tool made by Tamiya, particularly if working with plasticard. The cutting edge is on the rear of the blade so it cuts as you pull the tool towards you. The blade is more like a chisel than a knife and removes a grove of material with each pass.

The blurb says this "Tamiya Plastic Scriber II Craft Tool: This tool is perfect for tasks such as scoring and cutting plastic sheets, creating mould lines on model parts, and modifying Mini 4WD machines. The blade can be retracted after use and two spare blades are also stored inside the handle."

Mine is quite old now but the current version seems to be this:
View attachment 219616

Also excellent for general distressing plasticard...
Click to expand...
I bought a similar cutter from Squires many years ago, made by Olfa.
 
Pencarrow

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
I actually finished work at a normal time today so decided to do a bit of making. A slight interlude from the provender store and putting those new kits together.

First up the SR concrete PW tool shed.

The kit.
PXL_20240726_165654336.jpg

The parts.
PXL_20240726_170049300.jpg

A point to note is that the sides have a top and bottom. The tops have the middle two prongs/tabs slightly longer. Guess who didn't notice immediately....

The four sides all fit together into the thicker base and the thinner roof slabs. The outer faces of the sides have lightly lasered lines showing when the ribs go. Make sure they are on the outside.
PXL_20240726_170800936.jpg

Once the roof slabs was fitted, I made sure that the four corner prongs/tabs were flush with the roof.
PXL_20240726_171351569.jpg

Then an extra ring of thin MDF slots over the right middle prongs/tabs. The thin MDF sheet has a load of ribs in it. Two widths. Four narrow ones go on one face of each corner. The wider ones go on the other face of each corner and in the middle of the sides. There's two on the door face.
PXL_20240726_171629972.MP.jpg

The two thin MDF strips for the vertical corners are best done in one gluing hit so that they join nicely. There's a very thin sheet with two hinges on, these get glued to the door. The door fits between two vertical strips, make sure the second is the right place when gluing by temporarily fitting the door in place.
PXL_20240726_173450992.jpg
PXL_20240726_173504128.jpg

So that took about 20 mins. The door is loose for painting separately. I'll prime it up and see what filling needs doing.

One down.... Next...
 
Pencarrow

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Round 2. The GWR PW hut which Phil sent me in a plastic (non-retail) bag.

Here's the parts...
PXL_20240726_173903822.jpg

Worth noting that the four ribbed parts and the four sides all have front and rear faces. The front faces have detail lines marked on. Also note that the tabs of the front side with door in are also handed and different to the rear side. Worth doing a dry run first.

Turning to the side with the large window, there's a frame that fits on the inside. This gives a lip for the glazing to fit up against.
PXL_20240726_174156231.jpg

There are cut outs in the top of the inside frame. These accommodate the roof trusses. Worth making sure they fit before the glue goes off on the frame.
PXL_20240726_174228483.jpg

So, having done that bit of prep, the ribbing sections were glued to the respective walls, checking alignment carefully. The four wall units were then glued into the base and the three roof trusses fitted into the wall notches. You very quickly get to this stage.
PXL_20240726_180131505.jpg

The next stage was to fit the two roof panels. I couldn't get the roof to join at the top as the pieces overlapped rather than butting up. I did try various different orientations and far as I could tell, they were identical and the slots were not handed. I did resort to cutting a smidge off each roof panel to get the ridge to sit flat.

The photo below shows the window frame temporarily fitted without the glazing behind, the door just placed and also the two roof capping strips just placed on. The various lose parts will be removed for painting.
PXL_20240726_181013426.jpg

Took just less than 30mins to get this far.

I could do with trying to find some prototype photos to see what the roof finish was. I'm wondering if a layer of paper over the roof might be suitable and help hide the tabs and slots. Can anyone point me in the direction of a nice period photo?
 
Paul Tomlinson

Paul Tomlinson

Western Thunderer
Brian Dale posted one of Tim Mills' photos of a similar structure which gives as clear an image as one is likely to get, from 1961 (bottom of this post).

Prototype - Tim Mills' Photos

Interesting comparison of 7314 and 7325, particularly the reach rod. Was 7314 lever reverse and 7325 screw? David Yes. 7325 was part of the later Collett series originally numbered 9300-19 with longer frames, heavy buffer beams, side window cabs and screw reverse. The frames & buffer beams were...
www.westernthunder.co.uk
 
Pencarrow

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Next we have....

A proper SR concrete job.
PXL_20240726_165718221.jpg
PXL_20240726_181356326.jpg

Again, like the WR jobby, the first job is to fit the frames to the inside of the windows. Again they provide a rebate for the glazing.
PXL_20240726_182450752.jpg

All four sides fit together and then into the base. Don't forget to fit the beam that runs front to rear, it provides support for the many roof pieces. I only glue the edges and the central beam, not between the adjacent roof pieces.

I've made one of these previously and found that during gluing the MDF parts when glued together swelled slightly. That meant I couldn't fit the last piece in as the last slot wasn't wide enough. So I thinned the last piece to fit and then found a few weeks later that the the roof had dried and shank, leaving an annoying gap.

This time less glue.
PXL_20240726_183728980.jpg
 
Pencarrow

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Paul Tomlinson said:
Brian Dale posted one of Tim Mills' photos of a similar structure which gives as clear an image as one is likely to get, from 1961 (bottom of this post).

Prototype - Tim Mills' Photos

Interesting comparison of 7314 and 7325, particularly the reach rod. Was 7314 lever reverse and 7325 screw? David Yes. 7325 was part of the later Collett series originally numbered 9300-19 with longer frames, heavy buffer beams, side window cabs and screw reverse. The frames & buffer beams were...
www.westernthunder.co.uk
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul, well spotted. I've dropped Brian a message to see if I can use the photo here.
 
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