4mm Jan's 4mm WB: Getting Klingy With It

[Lyndhurstman]

I recall reading something about this type of continuous check rail on the late Peter Johnson’s Canada Street (the later layout bearing the name), but I could be wrong?

Jon

Hi Jon,
Yes... A lot of "inset" trackwork had a finer 'check rail' ( https://bristolharbourrailway.co.uk.../01/95e2c558-1184-4d84-bb8d-69b4ea15a030.jpeg ) whilst some seems to have had none at all (

https://flic.kr/p/qySnMB

). I've gone with the 'heavy stuff' partially to acknowledge the intense building effort that went on across the river at Rotherhithe during the later war years - they prepared the concrete caissons for the Mulberry harbour at Arromanche (Mulberry Harbours at Rotherhithe's South Dock in the Second World War).

Cheers

Jan

 

[jonte]

Hi Jon,
Yes... A lot of "inset" trackwork had a finer 'check rail' ( https://bristolharbourrailway.co.uk.../01/95e2c558-1184-4d84-bb8d-69b4ea15a030.jpeg ) whilst some seems to have had none at all (

https://flic.kr/p/qySnMB

). I've gone with the 'heavy stuff' partially to acknowledge the intense building effort that went on across the river at Rotherhithe during the later war years - they prepared the concrete caissons for the Mulberry harbour at Arromanche (Mulberry Harbours at Rotherhithe's South Dock in the Second World War).

Cheers

Jan

All looks well to my beady, Jan

Jon

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Buses, and their synchronised arrival
Whilst titivating the 48DS yesterday, I happened across this:



... A D&S GNR 8 Wheel Brake. Not sure when I built this - lost in the mists of time.... but it' suffered in the interim; those steps are AWFULLY delicate; i resoldered som last night (what do you mean you can't tell? ) It's a wonder of Danny's work, and my hamfistedness. I'll have to revist thise handrails (I've improved my skills in that department, at least!). And it's GNR browness, too. Back in the BR EFG...

It's fully compensated, with two 'bogie' plates hosting a pair of W irons. Not much movement in amongst all the gubbins, and the 0.3 mm brass 'stretchers' I've soldered underneath the opposing footboards. It also needs a step at the bottom of the body, so someone can change the sidelamp (also needing adding)...

Still, it was a fun moment in the incessant downpour yesterday afternoon.


Cheers

Jan

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Paint Stripping with Kling Strip
For those unaware (as I was) I’ve been using the above as a replacement for a jar of ModelStrip that had gone hard (a common occurrence, it seems). I found reference to it on another modelling forum.

According to the website (www.stripperspaintremovers.com) Kling Strip paste works - when applied thickly to the surface (1 - 2mm worked for me on both metal and plastic) that gradually dissolves the paint to a water-soluble residue, and - as long as it’s been applied where it needs to go - can be cleaned off by washing down under a tap. There should be no scraping necessary. It comes in a ‘Trial Pack’ and was £7.50 inc. post. If your lucky - unlike me -when it comes to washing down, you’ll remember to put the plug in, which will save you having to take the swan neck off from under the sink to rescue some bits….

I attach two cleaned examples; one whitemetal, the other plastic. Both had the gunk applied for 2 hours. In both cases, the white paste became tinged with yellow, which suggested to me that it was doing its thing (the paste contains Sodium Hydroxide.). Needless to say, I took note of all safety instructions…

This is the link to the safety sheet.

Cheers

Jan

 

[jonte]

Paint Stripping with Kling Strip
For those unaware (as I was) I’ve been using the above as a replacement for a jar of ModelStrip that had gone hard (a common occurrence, it seems). I found reference to it on another modelling forum.

According to the website (www.stripperspaintremovers.com) Kling Strip paste works - when applied thickly to the surface (1 - 2mm worked for me on both metal and plastic) that gradually dissolves the paint to a water-soluble residue, and - as long as it’s been applied where it needs to go - can be cleaned off by washing down under a tap. There should be no scraping necessary. It comes in a ‘Trial Pack’ and was £7.50 inc. post. If your lucky - unlike me -when it comes to washing down, you’ll remember to put the plug in, which will save you having to take the swan neck off from under the sink to rescue some bits….

I attach two cleaned examples; one whitemetal, the other plastic. Both had the gunk applied for 2 hours. In both cases, the white paste became tinged with yellow, which suggested to me that it was doing its thing (the paste contains Sodium Hydroxide.). Needless to say, I took note of all safety instructions…

This is the link to the safety sheet. View attachment 227687

Cheers

Jan

Thanks for sharing, Jan.

Not heard of this product, but did strip paint from an American HO switcher several years ago after leaving it to soak in a closed jar containing a solution of Dettol.

No harm to the surface and came off quite easily with some strokes of a toothbrush, but this sounds the part.

Jon

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Thanks for sharing, Jan.

Not heard of this product, but did strip paint from an American HO switcher several years ago after leaving it to soak in a closed jar containing a solution of Dettol.

No harm to the surface and came off quite easily with some strokes of a toothbrush, but this sounds the part.

Jon

Hi Jon,
Thanks. Yes... I've seen various folk going down the Dettol route. I've not tried it; mostly because I don't have suitably-sized containers for the bigger stuff.... And I was looking for something that was non-impactful within the confines of the house, and this stiff is nasally inert, so I'm happy (all safety considerations met) to use this during the winter, when the garage is too cold to work in. It's easier to apply than ModelStrip (I managed to save enough from the hardened lump that Tad kindly sent me), but will need pushing into all those Important Little Places with a cocktail stick (or similar).

Cheers

Jan