Kings Lynn Stabling Point, 1980's

[mickoo]

Yep, just like that.

I'll check out the US spikes. Thankfully there's not too much of that style.

One other source of the 'r' clip discussed at West Mersea a few months back in one of the many tangental discussions LOL, is stationary staples, these are about the right size if you get the smaller ones and can be bent quite easily with flat nosed pliers to represent 'r' clips or even US track spikes, but the metal is too soft to be 'hammered' home like the Peco spikes, you would have to pre drill if you used staples

For the chair you could even use thin brown card as Jordan suggested and spike to real wood sleepers, as opposed to the trimming of existing FB chairs, if your only doing a few in a length then maybe trimming the existing chair is the easiest and quickest option.

 

[Osgood]

…. The track in the yard is a total hotch-potch of different styles, including bull-head rail with cast chairs on concrete sleepers and flat bottom rail spiked into timber. Neither of which are readily available commercially…...

Any like the tyes below, Colin?

This pattern was common throughout the Stewarts & Lloyds ironstone system at Corby, and some can be seen at Rocks By Rail, Cottesmore:




At the same site is another style of sleeper but for flat bottom rail:



There is yet another type, flat topped with a hollow centre section but it eludes me at present.

(If you want I'll pull these out and post on a new thread - just let me know……)

 

[lancer1027]

Looking great Colin. The inspection pit is very well done.

Rob

 

[Colin M]

Any like the tyes below, Colin?

Surprising how many variations there are...! I haven't seen either of those before.

'Sawn-off' buffer stop is interesting. I wonder how much structural rigidity is lost for a couple of extra feet of platform length?

 

[Colin M]

Thanks for all your thoughts on this guys, much apprieciated!

Upon close inspection, trackwork is a really detailed subject; I could easily get sidelined.

The dilema is, if I decide to go for spot-on accuracy with track components I'll need to be totally correct throughout or, in my mind at least, the perfect bits will be diluted by any errors. I think, in the interests of getting something moving, I'm going to accept the compromise... given how slowly my modelling world turns and that any labour intensive work will be largely hidden by a deep layer of grime and muck, I think I can get away with a mix of different proprietry plain line track.

 

[SimonT]

Colin,
try the DEMU boys. I have a couple of pages of Part 2 of an article by Colin Craig in their Journal dealing with the pre-Pandrol era, but Sod's Law applies and most of the information is mainly on flat bottomed rail. There is some text about the concrete sleeper used with bullhead chairs; designated E1 for chairs with through bolts and E4 for chair with screws into rubber inserts. There is a drawing of the sleeper to 7mm scale which is not dimensioned but does feature a scale rule, so a model could be produced. Annoyingly a photograph of this type is one of the missing pages.

The sleeper would print and would probably cast as it features draft angles to the sides, which will be a surprise to no one.

Hope this helps, now I know why I kept the pages!

Simon

 

[mickoo]

Surprising how many variations there are...! I haven't seen either of those before.

'Sawn-off' buffer stop is interesting. I wonder how much structural rigidity is lost for a couple of extra feet of platform length?

That's quite a common buffer stop for confined spaces, we have one here where the loco release spur ends hard up against an access road

 

[Colin M]

Colin,
try the DEMU boys.

Good idea, thx, I've been to their exhibition once, in the Midlands (Burton-on-Trent IIRC..?) but never really looked into what their club does in any detail. I'll check out their website.

Colin,

The sleeper would print and would probably cast as it features draft angles to the sides, which will be a surprise to no one.

That's an interesting thought. Given that concrete sleepers were manufactured by casting, it follows that that should be a fairly easy shape to make a reliable mould for a model.

Brings back memories... I used to commute past the Costain sidings at Rye House every day when they had a private siding and dispatched bogie flats loaded to the limit with new sleepers

I'm still torn as to whether it's worth the effort though..? I'm trying to visualise what will still be visible after so much weathering? I was close to not even realising there was different variations, and I've studied many, many photos of the site!

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Colin

Thought you may be interested in this something I have been working on for the local club based on Kings Lynn . All in plasticard ,glass is clear plasticard attacked with sandpaper . One thing make sure you paint the inside walls before erecting the framing devil of a job to paint afterwards .If doing again would consider making the main girders from brass as frame work is very delicate until clear plastic added and still prone to come undone . I have been advised by Gravy Train RMweb (prof builder) to use 4mm Slaters corr for the roof .

Andrew

 

[Colin M]

Thought you may be interested in this something I have been working on for the local club based on Kings Lynn . All in plasticard ,glass is clear plasticard attacked with sandpaper . One thing make sure you paint the inside walls before erecting the framing devil of a job to paint afterwards .If doing again would consider making the main girders from brass as frame work is very delicate until clear plastic added and still prone to come undone . I have been advised by Gravy Train RMweb (prof builder) to use 4mm Slaters corr for the roof .

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Great job! Instantly recognisable.

I considered brass for the frame too, but decided on plastic in the end. I'm just about to start on a jig for the main frame sections.

Good point re the interior painting! I'm intending to fit the walls after the frame is erected and fully complete the interior of the shed before any roof panels are fitted.

Sandpaper is a good idea for obscuring the glazing; I hadn't thought of that. I'm thinking I will likely go for the more tedious route of individual panes, as it will make it easier to have individual colour variations.

Not sure about 4mm roofing? I haven't studied it too closely yet but I'm thinking that will look much too fine. I haven't thought of an easy solution for the ridge-line vents yet either.

Are you going to add lighting? Have you got any thoughts on how to do the flourescent fittings?


Good stuff. Please feel free to post further updates here.

Colin

 

[Phill Dyson]

That shed is a superb bit of scratch building Andrew

 

[mickoo]

Lovely engine shed, nice attention to detail

 

[Ressaldar]

Great piece of scratchbuilding Andrew, I'm looking forward to the progress photos. A big dig to get mine down off the shelf and progress it to completion.

regards

Mike

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Colin

At the moment not considering lighting but if you look on RMWeb I am sure there are several posts on various methods . If using plastic for the main girders you may wish to consider some form of discreet strengthening in the joints. As you will no doubt know this should be a free standing structure with the walls built around the girders but not actually touching them which in plastic makes a weak structure unless some pinning is undertaken . I didn't go to that extent and fixed the main girders to the wall for added strength.I wasn't carful enough in getting the main girders all the same size even though I used a wooden jig and this caused endless adjustments . I would recommend taking time to make a scale drawing as the time taken will save you more time in the long run and all parts should then fit straight of the drawing . Most of this is common sense but sometimes with a rush to get on with things such considerations go out the window and regrettably come back to bite you .

As for the roof vents I was considering building from scratch based on the available photos .

Most of the structure has used evergreen components .

Painting the brick work was trial and error but recommend Martyn Welch book and Gravy Train posts on RMweb under Structures amazing model of Wigan mpd .

All the best will post some more as I progress..

Andrew

 

[lancer1027]

Brilliant shed. Your scratch building is amazing.

Rob

 

[40126]

Hi Andrew

I don't go on rmweb, so can you please put a link up, to Wigan MPD & any others to do with this thread. Much appreciated

Steve

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Steve
If one of our more computer savey colleagues could let me know how will do .

Andrew

 

[adrian]

From the thread just copy and paste the string in the address bar at the top into the reply box - the forum software should recognise it as web page and automatically create the link for you.

 

[Andrew Thompson]

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/in...pot-parade-springs-branch-office-block/page-1 Hopefully this should work .

Thanks Adrian.

 

[40126]

WOW

Steve