LBSCR Horsebox C1856

[Mike W]

The last LNWR horseboxes to have top hinged upper doors were the first 19ft 6in examples in 1880. The GA drawing has survived but in dreadful condition, so attached is a re-draw of it done by my brother Bob Williams for the LNWR Society Journal many years ago. In this case dropping the lower doors automatically opens the top doors, but your handles are on the top doors, so the mechanism may be different. The LNWR is of course a double ended horebox, so the mechanism is entirely inside. I don't know on the single ended types whether it was inside or outside, but the LBSC drawing shows none of it, so maybe it was all hidden, in which case this is a bit irrelevant to you. But hopefully of interest anyway.

Mike

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Mike
How can a horsebox not be interesting. When I modelled in 7mm, I had about half a dozen or more horseboxes all waiting to be assembled. I never did get around to finishing them off and they were all sold when I gave up 7mm.

In my haste to get the roof on, I forgot to put in a floor and also the lead weights that I felt were needed to give it a bit of ballast. I have put a floor in on the second box including some weight in the form of lead strips.
There is a water drip that goes all around the roof edge which I'll have a go at putting on later.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

This set up made me smile and so, I thought that I'd post it here. It's all to hold the roof in place while i apply the mek-pak. I did remember the floor and the lead weights this time.

Jon

 

[Northroader]

Where would we be without Royal Mail?

 

[oldravendale]

Pretty much were we were for a few weeks before Christmas. We went a full ten days with no delivery at all. Any parcels I had to send out for the children in the family went by courier where I'd normally have used the regular mail.

Brian

 

[Jon Nazareth]

All finished now apart from the painting. As I like to do this in the garden these days, I'm going to have to wait until the warmer weather gets here.

The problem with making models in G3 is that storage space is consumed at an alarming rate. The display platform where my models stand is almost full. There's just about enough room for the two LSWR wagons which I'm planning to build but then that's it. I already have two locomotives and five wagons on my bookshelves. I wouldn't want to put more there otherwise there would be no room for books .

Jon

 

[michael mott]

Lovely work Jon, at G3 scale those little wagons must still be quite hefty, without the horses in them.

Michael

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Here are the both boxes painted but they are the wrong colour! I picked up a tin of spray paint that I thought I had used on the other LBSCR stock that I have and sprayed away. I was a bit shocked with the colour but thought that it would tone right down after the application of a coat of matt varnish. Thinking this, I even applied the transfers. This is the result and there is also some crazing on the right hand wagon. This may down to a mixture of acrylic and enamel varnish but, why didn't it happen on the whole of the horsebox. I'm going to leave the crazed paintwork as there isn't much that I can do about it now. What i would like to do is to tone the boxes down which i think could be a bit more than going over them both with a dry brush of matt black. Any suggestions from anyone?? I've never tried weathering as always thought that I would mess up my models obviously, now is the time try it out. All/any suggestions welcome.

One picture taken in the garden, the other indoors.

Jon

 

[mswjr]

On smaller oo, and o gauge models i just slap very thinned down matt black paint on , One side at a time, Then wipe it all off again with a cotton cloth, this leaves the black in all the crevasses and it looks good, when dry i dry brush a rust colour on the metal bits, But doing it to a nice model takes some courage, You need something to practice on.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Re the colour, I think, not certain, that I should have used Vauxhall Burgundy Red instead of the Ford Burgundy Red. I probably didn't think the colour odd when it came out of the can as it changes so much once it's over coated with matt varnish, heigh ho. Another thought is that I used red oxide as a primer before instead of the grey this time around. I've made up some sample pieces that, once fully painted, I can use for practice weathering.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

The best that I could do and a first time attempt. I used an acrylic wash and dabbed the surplus off with kitchen towel.

Jon

 

[john lewsey]

If its any help, I think that the weathered one looks Just the ticked. (They both look great)

 

[Mike W]

The weathering looks to have got into the nooks and crannies, showing them up better. A great job.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Here is the other horse box with it's weathering effect. I realise that it's not the most subtle of jobs but at least the base colour is toned down. I was trying to think why the colour was so wrong compared to the other LBSCR carriages that I have painted and then it came to me. Lately, everything that I have painted has come out of a spray tin of ready mixed paint and I just assumed that that is what I did for the earlier carriages, not! When I was rummaging about in the draw where I keep my tinlets of paint, I came across several marked mahogany. It was then that I realised that I had thinned these down and used my air brush, DOH! Alas, the little grey cells are becoming more grey. Ah, well, I'm planning some early LSWR carriages and they will be mahogany. With a bit of luck and a following wind, I may remember to use the correct colour.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Finally, finished. The irony is that, I've found three rattle cans of the correct paint colour , heigh ho.

Jon

 

[David Waite]

Hi Jon
Beautiful work, the wheels look magnificent .
David.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Thanks, David, it's nice to have something a bit different from time to time.

Jon