LNWR A class in S7

Crimson Rambler

Western Thunderer
John - I too am sorry to learn of your new - as Mike Osborne has observed, in a situation such as your's words are so inadequate.

Crimson Rambler
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
Hi everyone, I have been absent for a while not a great year really. I have recently taken the A class out of its box and decided to get on with the slidebars etc. I also need to order a Poppy's chassis jig,a surprisingly simple device which works very well in helping put the chassis together. The wheels are 3D printed by Alan Black . He will do them in S7 or finescale , I think that they look superb.
Here are a few photos.IMG20241005183946.jpgIMG20241005183317.jpgIMG20241005183314.jpgIMG20241005183914.jpg
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
Hi Graham , here is a photo of one of the wheels. I don't know whether the tyre is a press fit or otherwise. I hope the photo helps.
John.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I am currently trying to get some clearance between the cross head and the leading coupling rod. There really isn't a lot of space,,,,but I managed to get the P4 model to work so this one will as well.
"Will"? Surely you mean "shall"? given that you have the experience from 4mm scale modelling.
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Hi, I am currently trying to get some clearance between the cross head and the leading coupling rod. There really isn't a lot of space,,,,but I managed to get the P4 model to work so this one will as well.
John, I got over the clearance problems by fitting a flush crank pin retainer. Admittedly a bit difficult if you have not got machinery. I used a brass top hat bush tapped 10 B.A. for the crank pin and milled out the rods to suit.
Another way is to build the rods by laminating the thickness of the rod and boring the outside laminate to suit the top hat and the inner laminate to the bush dia. before soldering the rod laminates together
Below is a S7 loco I built a few moons ago on which I milled solid rods from nickel.

LNWR A class. 3.jpg
Photo by Heather Kavanaugh.

Col.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Milling rods…

 

simond

Western Thunderer
John, I got over the clearance problems by fitting a flush crank pin retainer. Admittedly a bit difficult if you have not got machinery. I used a brass top hat bush tapped 10 B.A. for the crank pin and milled out the rods to suit.
Another way is to build the rods by laminating the thickness of the rod and boring the outside laminate to suit the top hat and the inner laminate to the bush dia. before soldering the rod laminates together
Below is a S7 loco I built a few moons ago on which I milled solid rods from nickel.

View attachment 226801
Photo by Heather Kavanaugh.

Col.
That photo is fab.
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
John, I got over the clearance problems by fitting a flush crank pin retainer. Admittedly a bit difficult if you have not got machinery. I used a brass top hat bush tapped 10 B.A. for the crank pin and milled out the rods to suit.
Another way is to build the rods by laminating the thickness of the rod and boring the outside laminate to suit the top hat and the inner laminate to the bush dia. before soldering the rod laminates together
Below is a S7 loco I built a few moons ago on which I milled solid rods from nickel.

View attachment 226801
Photo by Heather Kavanaugh.

Col.
Your engine looks brilliant Colin
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
Was that the batch of parts pantograph milled by Peter Turville about 25 years ago, or completely different?

Mike
 
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