michael mott
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the detailed reply.
Michael
Michael
London and Birmingham Rly in G3
- Thread starter geoff_nicholls
- Start date
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
The four L and B wagons are nearly finished. I need to weather them a bit, and will try fitting tarpaulins to three of them. And letter them. I had to widen the back to back to 60mm to prevent side to side swinging (crabbing?) The loco will be a model of the first loco assembled at Wolverton.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Is it too personal to ask what the wheels cost, Geoff? Mark Wood sells a single cast iron unmachined 3'1" open spoke wheel for 13.44. machining would be extra on top of that if one had to outshop them for this work.
Jon
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
It worked out at £9.50 for a set of four wheels, from SGD3D, plus the cost of Slaters axles and brass axle bushes. The Slaters axle back-to-back is 58mm, I used 4mm brass washers to pad that out to 60mm
michael mott
Western Thunderer
An interesting question regarding the cost of wheels Jon. I was just wondering about that yesterday, I did a comparison of the cost of slaters wheels for a 4-4-0 loco between G1 and 7mm the G1 was 131pounds sterling and the 7mm was 119 pounds sterling their selection for G3 was blank. The only reason I am using the Mark wood wheels for the card loco is because I already had them and they were pricey but beautiful and I did not want to see them sit in the box. And as life shifts and courses change using what is available on the shelf so to speak seemed prudent. As someone mentioned earlier on my build and I’m paraphrasing here “ the wheels make the loco”
Michael
Michael
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
What? a card loco? Without that almost throwawy line, I would have missed your thread about building a large scale loco in card. I shall pore over that thread line by line, and copy it. I have a running loco chassis which would make an ideal candidate for a body built from card.
michael mott
Western Thunderer
Geoff some years ago I remember reading about a chap in England who build garden railway locos out of card and they were quite successful As Peter Insole stated it is such a clean "easy" material to work with, and the mistakes are not as difficult to toss because the humble material just goes straight into the recycle bin. I am finding the printable cardstock wonderful stuff to work with and three layers forms a really tough part and dilute carpenters glue applied with a 1/2 inch flat brush is a quick and easy way to laminate up curved parts.
Michael
Michael
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
Michael, I've just started a conversation with you about filing curved edges on card. Meanwhile, when you say carpenters glue, is that what we in the UK know as PVA glue?
michael mott
Western Thunderer
Yes it is the Lepages PVA yellow wood glue I use this one for the card
and the regular one for woodwork. I found that for card this particular glue works very well when diluted with water to the consistency of milk brush it on and then press down the next layer quickly working out from the center on larger surfaces, I also find that placing the work on some wax paper while brushing the glue on relieves a lot of mental stress. The curved panel that I formed over the wood on the loco was so easy to do I was surprised at how strong the three layers are.
Michael
and the regular one for woodwork. I found that for card this particular glue works very well when diluted with water to the consistency of milk brush it on and then press down the next layer quickly working out from the center on larger surfaces, I also find that placing the work on some wax paper while brushing the glue on relieves a lot of mental stress. The curved panel that I formed over the wood on the loco was so easy to do I was surprised at how strong the three layers are.
Michael
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
One of the delights that I mentioned in Michael's thread, was discovering (many years ago) that it was even possible to "work" dry card into curved shapes!
I remember the challenge of making a smokebox door out of one piece of card. I seem to recall using a spoon handle as a hard, rounded object to "stretch" the material (on the rear face) into a nicely dished shape. I was surprised by its resilience once the glue - and a good coating of Humbrol matt black had been applied!
Pete.
I remember the challenge of making a smokebox door out of one piece of card. I seem to recall using a spoon handle as a hard, rounded object to "stretch" the material (on the rear face) into a nicely dished shape. I was surprised by its resilience once the glue - and a good coating of Humbrol matt black had been applied!
Pete.
michael mott
Western Thunderer
Geoff here is a little test I did today First a couple of sheets of 1.31mm archival matt board were glued together with the dilute PVA then the edges were treated with AC glue and within a few minutes I was able to sand the edges with some 220 coarse sandpaper then used some 320 wet and dry dry of course then some 600 wet and Dry. then I used a fine file to create a bevel at one corner. the black is straight Vallejo brushed on.
The edges are as hard as styrene. I am going to see how a triple laminate of some of the printable stock works as tongue and groove.
Michael
The edges are as hard as styrene. I am going to see how a triple laminate of some of the printable stock works as tongue and groove.
Michael
simond
Western Thunderer
Card is an interesting option for model building, as it cuts extremely well on a laser. I had thought of doing “W” irons and other structural wagon bits (in 7mm) but being something of a butterfly, haven’t got any further than thinking…
your comment about it being “as hard as styrene” set those thoughts off again.
I think, on further reflection, fundamentally I’m a cheapskate! I’ll spend a fortune on lasers and 3D printers to save seven pence on a wagon…
(and to see “if I can”)
your comment about it being “as hard as styrene” set those thoughts off again.
I think, on further reflection, fundamentally I’m a cheapskate! I’ll spend a fortune on lasers and 3D printers to save seven pence on a wagon…
(and to see “if I can”)
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Geoff
That's very good indeed. What diameter are the wheels in feet and inches?
Jon
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Simon,Card is an interesting option for model building, as it cuts extremely well on a laser. I had thought of doing “W” irons and other structural wagon bits (in 7mm) but being something of a butterfly, haven’t got any further than thinking…
your comment about it being “as hard as styrene” set those thoughts off again.
I think, on further reflection, fundamentally I’m a cheapskate! I’ll spend a fortune on lasers and 3D printers to save seven pence on a wagon…
(and to see “if I can”)
A real cheapskate would let someone else spend a fortune on 3d printers and laser cutters so you can save 7 pence.
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
I've started adding the tarpaulin covers to the L and B wagons. I put brass pins round the underside of the body for the sheet ropes. I'm experimenting with pastel paper for the tarpaulin, kneading it and wetting it before pressing it over the former. Once dry it keeps it's shape.
geoff_nicholls
Western Thunderer
I've added the wagon sheets and tied them on using 0.75mm rigging hemp from Cornwall Model Boats. They need a few touches of paint, but I think they look the part. I dug out a cotton printed wagon sheet, which I'd been given a while back, to compare with the paper I used this time. I think I prefer the paper. It's stiffer and holds the creases better, which I believe looks better. I probably need to check out some more photos of the real thing for future projects.
