john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Absolutely stunning Peter the colouring is perfect
Love Lane, B.R. (E) c.1956-59
- Thread starter Eastsidepilot
- Start date
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Many thanks to everyone for your kind comments.
Only a brief update for tonight, but I'm absolutely pooped!
I missed Love Lane last week and have been suffering withdrawal symptoms. It was really good to get back to the folks today, even though the pleasure was somewhat marred by the constant, nagging pain of a shoulder injury!
A fresh look at the rear roof tiles revealed the need for a bit of colour tweaking, so that kept me busy until lunch.
Fabulously fortified as ever, I then mixed the following shades on my plastic palette for the variegated terra cotta effect on the ridges:
Matt 82 "Orange lining" and Matt 100 "Red brown" where used neat in some places, but mostly mixed.
Otherwise, some of the rather rich tones where flattened with Matt 61 "Flesh", or darkened with a dose of Matt 160 "German Camouflage Red brown".
In comparison with the sooty roof, the ridge uprights, while technically correct, still looked a bit too bright for comfort, so after allowing the paint to settle, I lightly dry-brushed some more of the roof tile blackish brown mix over them.
For the final touch, I opened a tin of Matt 28 "Camouflage Grey" and applied some of it, wet and dry with a fine brush...
Those damned perching pigeons...? ...now the roof is pooped as well...!!
Pete.
Only a brief update for tonight, but I'm absolutely pooped!
I missed Love Lane last week and have been suffering withdrawal symptoms. It was really good to get back to the folks today, even though the pleasure was somewhat marred by the constant, nagging pain of a shoulder injury!
A fresh look at the rear roof tiles revealed the need for a bit of colour tweaking, so that kept me busy until lunch.
Fabulously fortified as ever, I then mixed the following shades on my plastic palette for the variegated terra cotta effect on the ridges:
Matt 82 "Orange lining" and Matt 100 "Red brown" where used neat in some places, but mostly mixed.
Otherwise, some of the rather rich tones where flattened with Matt 61 "Flesh", or darkened with a dose of Matt 160 "German Camouflage Red brown".
In comparison with the sooty roof, the ridge uprights, while technically correct, still looked a bit too bright for comfort, so after allowing the paint to settle, I lightly dry-brushed some more of the roof tile blackish brown mix over them.
For the final touch, I opened a tin of Matt 28 "Camouflage Grey" and applied some of it, wet and dry with a fine brush...
Those damned perching pigeons...? ...now the roof is pooped as well...!!
Pete.
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Superb I do like that roof
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Oh dear, where are the weeks and months a going?... ...Heck, I've just spotted the date on my last post!
I heard myself sighing yesterday afternoon. Just when it seems that I'm on the home straight, there is another niggling issue that turns out not to be as easy to sort out as first imagined!
Although I'm not blaming anyone, I will make no apologies for banging on about this subject, mainly because I think it is worth repeating! Wood, solid and in ply form, MDF and cardboard are fibrous materials that appear to be reasonably rigid - or at the very least self-supporting! A common feature is that they are all fibrous, and effectively "live", and will expand and contract in varying atmospheric conditions. The trouble is that they do so in different directions and amounts!! Attaching these materials together is effectively sowing the seeds of perpetual conflict.
Trouble is, the temptation to build structures as strong and conveniently as possible, including an eye on cost (perversely, the thinner material is usually more expensive!) we can end up expending far more time and effort struggling with these warring factions!
And that's even before we decide to try sticking plastic or metal onto the stuff...!
The point is, the thicker the material used, the greater the bending forces are exerted!
Far better then to use the thinnest sheet material practicable, and apply as much belt and bracing as possible. It might appear to be more fussy and time consuming at the beginning, but will save a great deal of head and heartache later!!
So to the latest instalment of the epic Love Lane roof tale...
It is so easy with hindsight to consider what I should have done before even starting to stick all those tiles on the roof...
A couple of fairly hefty "purlins" (lengthwise ribs) under each side might have persuaded the wretchedly wayward MDF to stay reasonably flat?
As it is, the otherwise lovely roof is now irresistibly curling up at the corners, revealing completely unacceptable daylight twixt tile and walls at both front corners.
The only option was to scrap the laser cut soffits and facias and build up new, tailored ones in soft strip wood:
The triangular fillets at the gables will eventually form dummy "flashing" - a slightly awkward necessity to allow the roof to be lifted up over the brick detailing. Rather foolishly, I decided to fit them to the walls first with some notion that it would make alignment easier?! Quite apart from anything else, like cutting the wrong way on the grain, they were rather vulnerable and yes, I managed to knock the corner off the one on the left in the above image!
What a Charlie?
The next layers required a rebate (or is that rabbet, or rabbit - as in; I said router when it should have been rooter?!!) at the ends to fit under the fillets. More work than necessary eh?
For added strength, I butted the next strips over the visible mitred joints. Even after trimming, the end grain would be expected to show, but fear not, those bits will eventually be covered by the guttering!!
I also added some thin raised light proofing strips behind, although they were limited in height because of the thickness of the roof sheets.
Incidentally, one great benefit of ditching the original design was that a step could be created all around the walls, thus allowing a separate and removable ceiling to be snugly fitted over the whole interior!
A slight shaving was needed at this end and a general tidy.
Yeah, I broke the end off this fillet as well - more flippin' work!
You will notice that I couldn't resist making a start on the aforementioned ceiling - a nice and easy as well as a vital bit of relief on an otherwise frustratingly fiddly, faffing about, fettling day!
Mount board makes a perfect interior finish, where it is less prone to impact damage, but will warp like crazy on humid days.
There was just enough time left before clocking off to make a start on the vital bracing up job!
Even here there are still some slightly naughty gaps!
The pitch and level of the roof means that the edge bracing is rather thin on top, so the whole thing could still go curly on us?
I fancy a simplified bit of cornice detail would not be a wasteful exercise in mere frippery, but serve a dual function of adding extra rigidity and hiding the worst of the cracks into the bargain?!!
All right, the truth is that I enjoy the challenge a bit too much!
Pete.
I heard myself sighing yesterday afternoon. Just when it seems that I'm on the home straight, there is another niggling issue that turns out not to be as easy to sort out as first imagined!
Although I'm not blaming anyone, I will make no apologies for banging on about this subject, mainly because I think it is worth repeating! Wood, solid and in ply form, MDF and cardboard are fibrous materials that appear to be reasonably rigid - or at the very least self-supporting! A common feature is that they are all fibrous, and effectively "live", and will expand and contract in varying atmospheric conditions. The trouble is that they do so in different directions and amounts!! Attaching these materials together is effectively sowing the seeds of perpetual conflict.
Trouble is, the temptation to build structures as strong and conveniently as possible, including an eye on cost (perversely, the thinner material is usually more expensive!) we can end up expending far more time and effort struggling with these warring factions!
And that's even before we decide to try sticking plastic or metal onto the stuff...!
The point is, the thicker the material used, the greater the bending forces are exerted!
Far better then to use the thinnest sheet material practicable, and apply as much belt and bracing as possible. It might appear to be more fussy and time consuming at the beginning, but will save a great deal of head and heartache later!!
So to the latest instalment of the epic Love Lane roof tale...
It is so easy with hindsight to consider what I should have done before even starting to stick all those tiles on the roof...
A couple of fairly hefty "purlins" (lengthwise ribs) under each side might have persuaded the wretchedly wayward MDF to stay reasonably flat?
As it is, the otherwise lovely roof is now irresistibly curling up at the corners, revealing completely unacceptable daylight twixt tile and walls at both front corners.
The only option was to scrap the laser cut soffits and facias and build up new, tailored ones in soft strip wood:
The triangular fillets at the gables will eventually form dummy "flashing" - a slightly awkward necessity to allow the roof to be lifted up over the brick detailing. Rather foolishly, I decided to fit them to the walls first with some notion that it would make alignment easier?! Quite apart from anything else, like cutting the wrong way on the grain, they were rather vulnerable and yes, I managed to knock the corner off the one on the left in the above image!
What a Charlie?
The next layers required a rebate (or is that rabbet, or rabbit - as in; I said router when it should have been rooter?!!) at the ends to fit under the fillets. More work than necessary eh?
For added strength, I butted the next strips over the visible mitred joints. Even after trimming, the end grain would be expected to show, but fear not, those bits will eventually be covered by the guttering!!
I also added some thin raised light proofing strips behind, although they were limited in height because of the thickness of the roof sheets.
Incidentally, one great benefit of ditching the original design was that a step could be created all around the walls, thus allowing a separate and removable ceiling to be snugly fitted over the whole interior!
A slight shaving was needed at this end and a general tidy.
Yeah, I broke the end off this fillet as well - more flippin' work!
You will notice that I couldn't resist making a start on the aforementioned ceiling - a nice and easy as well as a vital bit of relief on an otherwise frustratingly fiddly, faffing about, fettling day!
Mount board makes a perfect interior finish, where it is less prone to impact damage, but will warp like crazy on humid days.
There was just enough time left before clocking off to make a start on the vital bracing up job!
Even here there are still some slightly naughty gaps!
The pitch and level of the roof means that the edge bracing is rather thin on top, so the whole thing could still go curly on us?
I fancy a simplified bit of cornice detail would not be a wasteful exercise in mere frippery, but serve a dual function of adding extra rigidity and hiding the worst of the cracks into the bargain?!!
All right, the truth is that I enjoy the challenge a bit too much!
Pete.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Question or statement.?
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Yes it is.
Oz7mm
Western Thunderer
We've had the laser cut weighbridge hut for a while but the Crittall windows are too fine for laser cutting so I added them to a recent etch. Here it is waiting for the maestro to paint (or help me to). It's based on porter's hut (we think) at Longstanton. the excuse for a post war building is that the original hut was terminally damaged by bomb blast (funny how the goods yard walls survived intact).
The bearded one says we can't just have an empty hut but we couldn't find a Pooley's weighing machine kit for it. A few hours at the electronic workbench yielded this. I hope the 3D print will be strong enough.
Is that OK Pete?
The other JB
The bearded one says we can't just have an empty hut but we couldn't find a Pooley's weighing machine kit for it. A few hours at the electronic workbench yielded this. I hope the 3D print will be strong enough.
Is that OK Pete?
The other JB
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Martin Field
Western Thunderer
Those laser cut buildings always seem to let themselves down at the corners with a slight but noticeable jiggle. Such a shame because in other respects the accurate inclusion of half butts is to be lauded. Can the corners not be fiddled with slightly to help the misalignment?
I'm very much a Slaters moulded brick man and the first area of concern is always to blend the corners and run a 3 square file round to continue the courses then fill and re-engrave to make half butts at corners and window/door reveals. Then, most important of all, to sand down the surface till it's completely flat and not semi cobblestoney in appearance, so there is just enough relief to have a mortar course at all.
I'm very much a Slaters moulded brick man and the first area of concern is always to blend the corners and run a 3 square file round to continue the courses then fill and re-engrave to make half butts at corners and window/door reveals. Then, most important of all, to sand down the surface till it's completely flat and not semi cobblestoney in appearance, so there is just enough relief to have a mortar course at all.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
They always look that way in the raw. I guess it's the scorched ends fooling the eye. I think you'd be surprised at how good they look when finished and painted.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Exactly so, if we look at the station building above we can see the corners are perfect and that building was designed and cut by Phil too I believe.They always look that way in the raw. I guess it's the scorched ends fooling the eye. I think you'd be surprised at how good they look when finished and painted.
I've seen the wastage in Phils workshop getting those corners just so. There will always be a gap, it's the nature of the beast, but it usually fills easily with the adhesive or paint for the joints and thus becomes near invisible.
Look at any of Peters buildings, excepting Bagshot and most will be Phils work and the corners are always near spot on. Digital cameras magnify any imperfection and seeing the finished items in the flesh, assembled and painted or raw wood the joint is near invisible.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Did the statement; " I could knock out a quick and acceptable representation..." actually pass my lips?
Oh the shame... ...I rather fear it did!
That is a lovely piece of work, and it looks spot on John!
Pete.
Oh the shame... ...I rather fear it did!
That is a lovely piece of work, and it looks spot on John!
Pete.
Oz7mm
Western Thunderer
Mick
the Love Lane station was cut by Phil but drawn by me. It's not got engraved brickwork but was covered with South Eastern Finecast plastic brick sheet by Peter Hunt (though it fell to me to do all the brick arches and lintels which are laser cut card cut into the plastic sheet, cut by Susie Frith). Quite a collaborative effort really.
John
the Love Lane station was cut by Phil but drawn by me. It's not got engraved brickwork but was covered with South Eastern Finecast plastic brick sheet by Peter Hunt (though it fell to me to do all the brick arches and lintels which are laser cut card cut into the plastic sheet, cut by Susie Frith). Quite a collaborative effort really.
John
Martin Field
Western Thunderer
OK, I had a butcher's at the Intensio website and a couple of buildings don't exhibit the wobbly corners, but most are shown as lasered, so all one can see at corners is scorching, but, credit where it's due, the ugly modern Severn Tunnel box has perfect corners as far as I can see. It's good to see the Great Eastern featuring, but the prices are way beyond me! Nice work though and the half butt thing is a definite plus.
Martin Field
Western Thunderer
I would have thought the brickwork on the building shown was Slaters as it has that slightly rounded look. Slaters is moulded, SEF is vacuum formed and it a little less distinct. It also shows cavities at the edges due to the vac-forming, which the above doesn't. The visible joints also look like those you'd get on Slaters sheet rather than SEF.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
In reply to Martin, Heather and Mick, I find myself torn...!
All I dare say is that a model is what it is! The only way to perfectly produce a miniature brick building would be to use real, tiny bricks and mortar!
Whatever medium we choose has it's limitations - some more so than others.
I guess the trick is subterfuge? The constant worry for me is trying to work out how on earth to make the whole thing "look right" in the end, regardless of the model's accuracy or even what it is made of !!
Pete.
All I dare say is that a model is what it is! The only way to perfectly produce a miniature brick building would be to use real, tiny bricks and mortar!
Whatever medium we choose has it's limitations - some more so than others.
I guess the trick is subterfuge? The constant worry for me is trying to work out how on earth to make the whole thing "look right" in the end, regardless of the model's accuracy or even what it is made of !!
Pete.