MMP Catfish

28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
Thanks chaps, it is essential to be as clean as possible with these kits because of the small details that are added. It is next to impossible to clean excess solder off at the later stages, so I go on the principle that if i can see solder, then its too much!!
I keep meaning to try a micro flame, but at the moment I am using a conventional iron and an RSU. I have had some problems with a fine residue appearing after cleaning the parts in water, and im not sure what is causing it  :scratch:
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
I use an Iroda Solderpro 120 which I thoroughly recommend, there are usually some on ebay at around ?30 from UK suppliers but a quick look has only shown US suppliers listed at the moment at more money. You can get much cheaper ones (I started with a cheap one off the market)  but you need too many hands - The Iroda is self igniting.
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Rob Pulham said:
I use an Iroda Solderpro 120 which I thoroughly recommend, there are usually some on ebay at around ?30 from UK suppliers but a quick look has only shown US suppliers listed at the moment at more money. You can get much cheaper ones (I started with a cheap one off the market)  but you need too many hands - The Iroda is self igniting.
Click to expand...
I notice one went a couple of days ago for effectively ?33. Also that Maplins sell them for ?41.99, but there is also a kit with quite a bit more in it. A set of alternative tips costs ?20 or so.

Any benefit from buying the kit, as opposed to the iron plus extra bits - if they are needed at all?
Are you using the tip as supplied?

I also noticed that they do other irons, the 120 being more or less equivalent to 120W, the 70 to 70W and so on, so anyone searching/buying please take care!
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,

I must admit that I have discarded the tips and just use the flame itself for soldering. I apply flux and a small piece of solder and heat from the back where possible or adjacent if not. I have found through experience that the flux tends to go black and furry (a bit like mould) if you apply the flame directly to it.

I use Simon Varnham's safety flux and haven't tried any other with the micro flame so whether this only happens with this type flux I cannot say.
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
28ten said:
I keep meaning to try a micro flame, but at the moment I am using a conventional iron and an RSU.
Click to expand...
What power rating/brand/tip size are you using?
I have had some problems with a fine residue appearing after cleaning the parts in water, and im not sure what is causing it  :scratch:
Click to expand...
Are you using an acid flux? If you have hard water, it may precipitate some of the lime out of it. (I may be wrong there - 27 years since I did any chemistry.)
I have found washing with soap flakes, slightly alkaline, can be a useful way to neutralise things. You only need to so it at the end of the day, but gloves might be an idea.

Rob Pulham said:
I must admit that I have discarded the tips and just use the flame itself for soldering. I apply flux and a small piece of solder and heat from the back where possible or adjacent if not. I have found through experience that the flux tends to go black and furry (a bit like mould) if you apply the flame directly to it.
I use Simon Varnham's safety flux and haven't tried any other with the micro flame so whether this only happens with this type flux I cannot say.
Click to expand...
Possibly the carrier evaporates/sublimates too quickly under direct heat, leaving a residue, or maybe the active ingredient evaporates under direct heat, and the carrier creates a crust?

Either way, warming things up nearby to get the flux to run is good practice anyway.
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
I have been using one of these irons for years, good to see that proper modellers approve of them too  ;D....interestingly though, although it is exactly the same, the company name on mine is Nimrod  :scratch:
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Rob Pulham said:
Phil, Do I take it from this that I am a 'Proper Modeller' then? :eek: :eek: 8) 8)
Click to expand...
Is he saying that he is an improper modeller?

The mind boggles...
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
We don't HAVE to do anything.
It's just that once in a while, it is nice to have something relevant to talk about...
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
For tonights little update, I have assembled the working leaf springs. tomorrows job is to straighten  them and clean up the horn guides and horn blocks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3569.jpg
    462.3 KB · Views: 18
D

djparkins

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
For tonights little update, I have assembled the working leaf springs. tomorrows job is to straighten  them and clean up the horn guides and horn blocks
Click to expand...

It is really important for me [and for you] to stress here Cynric that these assemblies DO NOT currently feature in the kit as sold.  When/if they do feature as standard, the price will be higher. 

As you know I sent you these as a non-standard addition [for a good customer!] and the use of these components requires modification to the axlebox castings - so please let us proceed on that basis out of fairness to MMP.

The kit as sold enables the axleboxes [not the springs] to move but via a different method.

Regards,

David Parkins,
Modern Motive Power
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top