richard carr
Western Thunderer
Looks great Tim, although I would have sent it to Warren to paint.
Richard
Richard
7mm MOK BR Standard 4MT Tank
- Thread starter P A D
- Start date
welshwizard
Western Thunderer
Very nice Tim very neat job on the lining !!.
Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
Richard,
Its the fantastic work of people such as Warren that inspires me to have a go.
Tim
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Nice job Tim.Superb job Tim
Col.
Pete.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Looks very nice Tim.
Mine is still to be painted but will be going to Warren Haywood along with my Stanier 2-6-4 at some point.
Cheers,
Peter
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Three years plus later and we have found a similar situation with Peter's 4MT. Forewarned, we have changed the assembly sequence in so far that the cylinders and motion brackets are attached temporarily to the frame plates without slidebars. Visually the motion brackets are at different angles to each other. Dave Sharp (proprietor of Modern Outline Kits) has checked his CAD drawings and advised that, on the prototype, the motion brackets are parallel to the rear face of the cylinder block. I bent and adjusted the location of each bracket until (a) the bracket is straight and (b) the distance between bracket and block at the top of the bracket was the same as the distance when measured at the bottom of the bracket.
Almost there... after aligning the brackets with the cylinder block I noticed that the bottom of each bracket was further out, from the frame plate, than the top of the bracket. More bending, this time side to side rather than front to back.
As to the accuracy of the castings when received, this is what Dave had to say on the question...
<<quote>>
When it comes to the Motion Bar accuracy, then these are castings, produced in rubber moulds and so dimensionally will be somewhat fluid in accuracy which is unavoidable. A little straightening would be in order and to be expected."
<<end quote>>
I have no problem with Dave's comment, maybe a warning in the instructions might have been helpful.
regards, Graham
P A D
Western Thunderer
Time to resurrect another dormant thread, but first an apology to @Dogstar for my lack of reply to his question regarding pick ups. My apologies Graham, I'd not been on the forum for a while when you posed your question so I missed it until now.
This is where I'd got to with the build before the pandemic. All complete and running ready for stripping down for painting.
I'd originally gone with phosphor bronze wipers acting on the top of the wheel tyres as below.
However, I now prefer to have the wipers acting on the edge of the flanges so I've modified them and the front ones are now like this.
And the middle and rear like this.
Here's how I shape the wipers. First a 90 degree bend.
Then fold over to make a U bend.
Snip off the excess with side cutters and solder to the copper clad.
I made a start dismantling the model for painting. My original intention was to send it to Warren Haywood, but I've not painted a loco for a while so I've decided to do it myself. Lining will be done with the Fox dedicated lining set for this loco.
Cheers,
Peter
Compton castle
Western Thunderer
What a superb job and in my opinion the prettiest tank loco built
P A D
Western Thunderer
Mike,
Thank you. I believe it was @Dikitriki (or could have been @mickoo) who suggested it to me and I posed the same question. Richard Lambert told me that after using this method with extensive running on a large layout, there had been no problems. The edge of the flange will be polished very smooth at final assembly. The advantage of this is it keeps the wiper where it should be and is less prone to picking up crud from the track. Also, if they ever do fail, it will be easy enough to replace.
Thank you Steve. I'm teetering between this and the Stanier 3P when fitted with separate dome and top feed as the best looking tank loco. Each to his own though.
Cheers,
Peter
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I've been fitting them to models for a few years and Richard will have more mileage I'm sure, the PB is a tough ole metal so it'll take some time before it wears through and as Peter notes, easy enough to change.
The big advantage is the lack of drag and running on a surface (rim) less prone to collecting dirt. Where I can't use wipers I use the low friction sprung plungers from Germany, they're more like Ho in size/pressure and work really well.
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P A D
Western Thunderer
Here are the wheels after masking up and mounting on my trusty board ready for spraying. It was last used for the A4 wheels hence the eight grey circles from spraying the tender wheels. The axle ends (wheels screws) will be black on this one so I've mounted them as well. A 2.8mm hole drilled into the board gives a nice fit that holds the screws but allows easy removal. The wheels treads were masked with flexible tape and the crank pin screws with silicone tube.
Priming was with Upol acid etch 8 and the top coat is Halfords satin black, both in rattle cans. Interestingly, on the Upol websites it says that the top coat should be applied within 60 mins of the primer drying, otherwise you need to sand the primer.
Unfortunately the chamfer on the wheel screws picked up some overspray, so I removed it by spinning in the mini drill and scraping off with a scalpel. I was going to counter sink the mounting holes in the board, but I though it would be difficult to get the screws out, risking damage to the paint so I passed on that. For the next set I'll drill the 2.8mm holes all the way through and counter sink. That way I can push the screws out from the back of the board with a length of rod.
It only took about 5 mins to clean up the lot.
To spray the pony and bogie I was able to hold them in forceps, but the frames are much too big. I did them using a cake turntable for the primer, but for the top coat I rigged up a simple wire hook from the top of the spray booth which meant I could rotate the frames by twisting the hook. As I needed to spray close to the top edge of the booth, I masked off the frame to avoid overspray. The booth is an Expo 510 with double fans and LED lighting. It comes with a small flat turntable but I prefer to use a cake decorating turntable bought from Hobbycraft, as the table is about 3 inches tall so you can spray lower down on the model from a low angle. This will be the first loco I've used it for, but I've done quite a few 1:18 model Ferraris and it works a treat. Highly recommended!
I chemically blackened the wheels on the Stanier 4P some time ago which you'll see when I get to that. The black treads do look nice and the Casey's gun blue gave a good result. However, I find the process a bit hit and miss and the gun blue is very poisonous, so I prefer not to use it.
I may get the body sprayed today but I've got other commitments so we'll see.
Cheers,
Peter
Priming was with Upol acid etch 8 and the top coat is Halfords satin black, both in rattle cans. Interestingly, on the Upol websites it says that the top coat should be applied within 60 mins of the primer drying, otherwise you need to sand the primer.
Unfortunately the chamfer on the wheel screws picked up some overspray, so I removed it by spinning in the mini drill and scraping off with a scalpel. I was going to counter sink the mounting holes in the board, but I though it would be difficult to get the screws out, risking damage to the paint so I passed on that. For the next set I'll drill the 2.8mm holes all the way through and counter sink. That way I can push the screws out from the back of the board with a length of rod.
It only took about 5 mins to clean up the lot.
To spray the pony and bogie I was able to hold them in forceps, but the frames are much too big. I did them using a cake turntable for the primer, but for the top coat I rigged up a simple wire hook from the top of the spray booth which meant I could rotate the frames by twisting the hook. As I needed to spray close to the top edge of the booth, I masked off the frame to avoid overspray. The booth is an Expo 510 with double fans and LED lighting. It comes with a small flat turntable but I prefer to use a cake decorating turntable bought from Hobbycraft, as the table is about 3 inches tall so you can spray lower down on the model from a low angle. This will be the first loco I've used it for, but I've done quite a few 1:18 model Ferraris and it works a treat. Highly recommended!
I chemically blackened the wheels on the Stanier 4P some time ago which you'll see when I get to that. The black treads do look nice and the Casey's gun blue gave a good result. However, I find the process a bit hit and miss and the gun blue is very poisonous, so I prefer not to use it.
I may get the body sprayed today but I've got other commitments so we'll see.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
The body is now sprayed ready for detail painting and adding the lining. It's quite glossy now to facilitate the application of the water slide lining but the model will be weathered later so much duller in the end. I've got the dedicated lining set for this loco from Fox Transfers.
The result achieved is not in the same league as the work of the likes of Warren Haywood and Ian Rathbone, but I'm happy with it.
I've sprayed quite few model cars in my time away from WT, but still approached this with trepidation as the more complex shape of a steam locomotive with all the nooks and crannies, makes it more difficult. This was my last model car project before getting back on the rails. It's a 1:18 1967 Ferrari 330 P4 (the Ferrari in the film Ford vs Ferrari) made by GMP. It wasn't cheap, but I picked it up for about half the lower end going price on Ebay. It represented the prototype car painted black, but while in reasonable condition suffered from sever paint rash. The working suspension front and rear was also very stiff (the springs were too hard) or jammed. Long story short, I broke it down, fixed the suspension, upgraded it in one or two places and repainted inside and out and rebuilt. The main upgrade which vastly improved the appearance was lowering the ride height which was much too high as it came, a common fault with this model. It doesn't match the black image on the box artwork any more, but hey, a Ferrari's not a Ferrari unless it's red!
By rights the shell wing mirrors should be covered in a shroud, but I dont like them that way so I left them off.
The model is fully opening with working knock off wheel spinners, suspension, steering, opening doors, sliding windows, opening fuel fillers and covers. The spare wheel is removable via the prototype bungy cords which I made to replace the GMP ones which were glued to the fasteners, either at manufacture or by a previous owner.
Back on message, here are the cylinders after removing the masking and scrsping off the odd bits of overspray here and there on the valve gear.
I put the body aside for a while and made a start on reassembling the chassis.
Note the blowdown valve lever wrongly position on top of the spacer. I knocked it off during dismantling and refitted it in the wrong place, but didnt realise until looking at this image.
I've since corrected it but need to touch up the paint on the spacer. The pick ups are back on as well but I overlooked to take a photo.
Refitting the bogie slider and springs was a little fiddly, but nothing too onerous. I put the front springs in first, then backed off the retaining screws for the slider retaining plate one at a time, added the rear springs then re-tightened.
The pivot is a bit more complex than the captive screw and spring that I usually go with.
Cheers,
Peter
The result achieved is not in the same league as the work of the likes of Warren Haywood and Ian Rathbone, but I'm happy with it.
I've sprayed quite few model cars in my time away from WT, but still approached this with trepidation as the more complex shape of a steam locomotive with all the nooks and crannies, makes it more difficult. This was my last model car project before getting back on the rails. It's a 1:18 1967 Ferrari 330 P4 (the Ferrari in the film Ford vs Ferrari) made by GMP. It wasn't cheap, but I picked it up for about half the lower end going price on Ebay. It represented the prototype car painted black, but while in reasonable condition suffered from sever paint rash. The working suspension front and rear was also very stiff (the springs were too hard) or jammed. Long story short, I broke it down, fixed the suspension, upgraded it in one or two places and repainted inside and out and rebuilt. The main upgrade which vastly improved the appearance was lowering the ride height which was much too high as it came, a common fault with this model. It doesn't match the black image on the box artwork any more, but hey, a Ferrari's not a Ferrari unless it's red!
By rights the shell wing mirrors should be covered in a shroud, but I dont like them that way so I left them off.The model is fully opening with working knock off wheel spinners, suspension, steering, opening doors, sliding windows, opening fuel fillers and covers. The spare wheel is removable via the prototype bungy cords which I made to replace the GMP ones which were glued to the fasteners, either at manufacture or by a previous owner.
Back on message, here are the cylinders after removing the masking and scrsping off the odd bits of overspray here and there on the valve gear.
I put the body aside for a while and made a start on reassembling the chassis.
Note the blowdown valve lever wrongly position on top of the spacer. I knocked it off during dismantling and refitted it in the wrong place, but didnt realise until looking at this image.
I've since corrected it but need to touch up the paint on the spacer. The pick ups are back on as well but I overlooked to take a photo.Refitting the bogie slider and springs was a little fiddly, but nothing too onerous. I put the front springs in first, then backed off the retaining screws for the slider retaining plate one at a time, added the rear springs then re-tightened.
The pivot is a bit more complex than the captive screw and spring that I usually go with.
Cheers,
Peter
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Peter,
The bogie pivot from MOK is very, very good though. I've fitted them to three Schools, a D1 and an E1, all built from David Andrews kits.
Ian
The bogie pivot from MOK is very, very good though. I've fitted them to three Schools, a D1 and an E1, all built from David Andrews kits.
Ian
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Ian,
Yeah, I agree. That wasn't a criticism, just a statement of fact.
I've been working on the 3P so the 4MT has been put aside. However, I have made a start on the detail painting beginning with the buffer beams and the backhead is done apart from adding the dials. Here are the 4MT and 3P backhead. I started scribing some planks on the 4MT floor but then decided to do it in plasticard and glue it on.
Cheers,
Peter
Yeah, I agree. That wasn't a criticism, just a statement of fact.
I've been working on the 3P so the 4MT has been put aside. However, I have made a start on the detail painting beginning with the buffer beams and the backhead is done apart from adding the dials. Here are the 4MT and 3P backhead. I started scribing some planks on the 4MT floor but then decided to do it in plasticard and glue it on.
Cheers,
Peter