No hurry mate plenty to do on the chassis.
How's the body coming on?
Nick, once we have the footplate and cab sorted then the body will be modified to be a snug fit.
When you start the chassis don't use the outside cylinder frame work or wrapper, new ones are on the footplate etch which give the correct parabolic curve and front end support, also new outside front sand boxes with the filler neck added and sanding levers / brackets are coming too. There's also new inside sand boxes which will be easier to fit before the sides go together, other than that, the rest is good to go.
Still to ad to the footplate etch (there's plenty of space so might as well use it) are front dampers and linkages grate linkages, drain cock linkages and shaft fittings and anything else I can think of and cram in.
Cab is virtually done, just finished the windows (rear one sliding, I know both do but the front is nearly always shut so it's fixed) and glazing recesses, also finished the firemans cylinder drain cock lever and bracket and need to add the same for the drivers side sanding lever gubbins. I need to run off a test cab roof on some scrap etch (print and paste) to check it forms up ok and then some final checks on the front V sheeting to make sure it all matches the body. Oh, nearly forgot, cab doors and roof mounted plate work for gauges with associated slots and fixings.
Drain cock lever, support bracket and Bowden cable sheave, I'll leave you to add the Bowden cable sockets (0.6 mm tube 1.2 mm long) in the required place
you may wish to also add the cable and pipe run, I will on mine as it is clearly visible in that corner of the cab
There will be a drain cock Bowden cable sheave and fixing at the front end inside the frames and under the middle cylinder, up to builders if they want to add it or not, but it'll be there if they do. Cross shafts are 0.7 mm in dia and the linkage hangs down below the frame arch for the rear bogie wheel so it might all be a limiting factor for those who require a tighter radius of operation.
Mick D