Nick Dunhill's Workshop - Royal Scot from a JLTRT kit
- Thread starter Nick Dunhill
- Start date
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
So this week I finished the tender and started on the loco chassis. The rest of the scoop details and brake rigging were fitted up. I had to make the rigging removable to accommodate the (annoying) AGH wheels, and insulated the whole chassis from the body to prevent the inevitable shorts that occur when trying to use the US system. It's easier to install pickups than buggering around trying to find the short on a 12 coach train.
On to the body. I started with the rods, then moved on to the chassis. There was a half-day filing off etching cusps and a day assembling the basic chassis. The overlays don't quite fit, so I'll have to adjust that bit when I make the footplate. The kit has a lot of castings (that don't quite fit) to replace etched fabrications that do fit. Where to start, I do not know, the instructions are only a vague guide! There are some rather nice horn guide and axlebox castings that you can only use when making a rigid frame loco (!) Some etched horn guides are included, after the style of Slater's ones, that don't quite fit.....and if you assemble and fit them as the instructions imply the rod and axlebox centres are a country mile out. Always check and use the rods as a jig for locating axleboxes. I made a video about it that is on the Guild's YouTube channel, so no excuses!
Anyway I fitted up the wheels and they run very smoothy first time.
If anyone has made one of these locos, could you give me an idea about a suitable motor/gearbox? There's only a small recess in the firebox moulding, and I want to avoid burrowing in the GRP boiler moulding, as I'm told it lays waste to drills and burrs very quickly. I intend to drive the rear axle.
Haywood and myself are holding court on the naughty step at Stafford if you fancy a chat.
On to the body. I started with the rods, then moved on to the chassis. There was a half-day filing off etching cusps and a day assembling the basic chassis. The overlays don't quite fit, so I'll have to adjust that bit when I make the footplate. The kit has a lot of castings (that don't quite fit) to replace etched fabrications that do fit. Where to start, I do not know, the instructions are only a vague guide! There are some rather nice horn guide and axlebox castings that you can only use when making a rigid frame loco (!) Some etched horn guides are included, after the style of Slater's ones, that don't quite fit.....and if you assemble and fit them as the instructions imply the rod and axlebox centres are a country mile out. Always check and use the rods as a jig for locating axleboxes. I made a video about it that is on the Guild's YouTube channel, so no excuses!
Anyway I fitted up the wheels and they run very smoothy first time.
If anyone has made one of these locos, could you give me an idea about a suitable motor/gearbox? There's only a small recess in the firebox moulding, and I want to avoid burrowing in the GRP boiler moulding, as I'm told it lays waste to drills and burrs very quickly. I intend to drive the rear axle.
Haywood and myself are holding court on the naughty step at Stafford if you fancy a chat.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Hello Nick,
I like the horn cheek strengthening plates, you would think that you wouldn't see a lot, but it's surprising what you see when the locos is in motion.
The motors that I tended to use on all of my J.L.T.R.T. builds was the helical motor and gearbox from Ron Chapman. I think that you can get them from M.S.C. ?
The boiler in G.R.P.. For opening out the fire box to fit the motor and gearbox use the round drum sanding drums (you know the ones you don't know what to use them for) well this is the job, lots of dust so you may want to put a mask on.
For drilling the boiler for handrail knobs use a drill of the correct size that won't cut brass anymore. Put it in the Dremel put a good starting centre pop mark in the boiler and drill away it will wear the drill into a point but will cut to size. Keep it to one side for only doing this job. I'll see if I can find a photo of the drills after doing a number of blue boilers.
Have a good time at Stafford (sound wrong not saying Telford),
ATB
OzzyO.
I like the horn cheek strengthening plates, you would think that you wouldn't see a lot, but it's surprising what you see when the locos is in motion.
The motors that I tended to use on all of my J.L.T.R.T. builds was the helical motor and gearbox from Ron Chapman. I think that you can get them from M.S.C. ?
The boiler in G.R.P.. For opening out the fire box to fit the motor and gearbox use the round drum sanding drums (you know the ones you don't know what to use them for) well this is the job, lots of dust so you may want to put a mask on.
For drilling the boiler for handrail knobs use a drill of the correct size that won't cut brass anymore. Put it in the Dremel put a good starting centre pop mark in the boiler and drill away it will wear the drill into a point but will cut to size. Keep it to one side for only doing this job. I'll see if I can find a photo of the drills after doing a number of blue boilers.
Have a good time at Stafford (sound wrong not saying Telford),
ATB
OzzyO.
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
The Scot sounds quite challenging with lots of "not quite fitting" parts but looks to be progressing well. The kit design looks to have quite a lot in common with the 4 mm Brassmasters kit which I built a while ago. Good luck with the build.
For those of us who are not regular Guildex visitors, what and where is the "naughty step"? It would be nice to say "hello" as I'm a regular follower of you WT posts.
Dave.
For those of us who are not regular Guildex visitors, what and where is the "naughty step"? It would be nice to say "hello" as I'm a regular follower of you WT posts.
Dave.
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Dave,
Nick and Warren's naughty step is stand 11A.
Nick and Warren's naughty step is stand 11A.
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the tops Paul. I'll dig out my worst 1.2 mm drill, and buy one of those sanding drums.
Dreading it!
Yes it's certainly all change at Guildex. The new venue is good, but I also still call it Telford!
See you later this weekend Dave.
See you soon
Dreading it!
Yes it's certainly all change at Guildex. The new venue is good, but I also still call it Telford!
See you later this weekend Dave.
See you soon
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Nick.
It was a pleasure to meet you at Stafford, today, and chat about your modelling and to see the Scot in progress. I fear you were surrounded by 4 mm scale modellers at the time (myself included!), but good modelling transcends the scale, I think.
Congratulations on receiving your award.
Dave.
It was a pleasure to meet you at Stafford, today, and chat about your modelling and to see the Scot in progress. I fear you were surrounded by 4 mm scale modellers at the time (myself included!), but good modelling transcends the scale, I think.
Congratulations on receiving your award.
Dave.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Tell more.
What was the award?
What was the award?
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Bernard,
Someone made a suggestion that after running the modelling competition for 16 years, and for his work on the technical committee, Nick was deserving of a Gauge O Guild Order of Merit.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Great news, thoroughly deserved in my view.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
You and me both.
Well deserved Nick. I would raise a glass but I can't drink,
OzzyO.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Perfectly reasonable.
Well done that man.
Well done that man.
