Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Ooh, okay. I'll let the new base coat dry nice and hard before I apply a lighter shade.
7mm Not everything I build has wheels!
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
As I contemplate the fuel point shelter, the thought strikes me that I don't have storage for lube and coolant. In that case, I should only fit the fuelling gear.
It's all fun, this modelling lark!
It's all fun, this modelling lark!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The tank is drying in the AADF having undergone a swift colour change. Here's the base, scruffied up. I'm not going any further with this, as it can be toned in with the layout it's destined for once it's planted.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I think we are getting there. Some paint details to tidy up, and the tank to be attached to the base rather than just perched in place, but it is almost time to move on to the delivery end of things.
The kits come with lengths of flexible rubbery pipe. It doesn't behave, generally wanting to go where it wants to go. To tame it, so it more or less complies with my bidding, a length of copper wire is passed through.
I have done some preliminary sketches for the rudimentary shelter. I think the skeleton will be some brass wire, with the corrugated material pinned and glued to it. I shall show my workings out in due course, but I think tomorrow ought to be dedicated to another build for a spell.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Getting close but the pipe that comes through the wall should have a small pump behind the wall to fill up the tank along with a non return valve. The delivery pump tends to be at the opposite end to the input end due to all the muck that can be in the base of the tank.
For some reason the delivery pump tends to be about one or two tracks away from the tanks, with the delivery pipes running under ground to the pumps. The refilling tracks also have drains that go to a sump that is pumped out to a tank that lets all of the oil ETC. be cleaned out from normal ground water.
HTH
OzzyO.
For some reason the delivery pump tends to be about one or two tracks away from the tanks, with the delivery pipes running under ground to the pumps. The refilling tracks also have drains that go to a sump that is pumped out to a tank that lets all of the oil ETC. be cleaned out from normal ground water.
HTH
OzzyO.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Cheers Paul. It's always good to understand how these facilities work. 
I'm not going to make any changes beyond what the kit provided, though. There is a form of pump cast into the pipe under the end of the tank, which I read as being the feed to the delivery point. I may be reading that wrong, but it's what came in the box.
The budget is being stretched to fit the mods for the delivery part, so as far as I am concerned - and the client seems happy so far - the tank bit is done.
I'm not going to make any changes beyond what the kit provided, though. There is a form of pump cast into the pipe under the end of the tank, which I read as being the feed to the delivery point. I may be reading that wrong, but it's what came in the box.
The budget is being stretched to fit the mods for the delivery part, so as far as I am concerned - and the client seems happy so far - the tank bit is done.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
My head isn't in the right frame of mind to work on the build I intended to do today, so I've been mucking about with the fuel delivery parts.
The kit of parts consists of an etch for the base, some hand wheels, and the roof structure. The pipework and gubbins is a set of rather indifferent whitemetal castings (wince).
My plan had been to repurpose parts of the main casting - the one in the middle, the fuel delivery pipe - to match the horizontal pattern of the images posted earlier in this thread. My cogitation yesterday led me to think the coolant and lubrication delivery bits might not be necessary, but clients, as they do, have other ideas. So, rethinking my scheme a little, I decided to roll with what came in the packet.
After some careful straightening and removal of flash and casting pips, and with nothing actually broken by this stage, I began adding the pipes from the supplied rubbery tube.
Of course, there isn't enough! The instructions imply there ought to be at least a foot of tubing. I got about eight inches. Fair enough, I thought. Time to break into the bits box. The coolant unit, on the left, has been given some hoses using some very flexible rubber cord I bought a while back. Drilling out the castings and super gluing things in seems to have worked. The remaining pipes are trimmed from the original tube, with some wire stuffed down it to make it hold a shape.
Now, I have to figure out how these parts will be disposed in the tin shack that's next on the list!
The kit of parts consists of an etch for the base, some hand wheels, and the roof structure. The pipework and gubbins is a set of rather indifferent whitemetal castings (wince).
My plan had been to repurpose parts of the main casting - the one in the middle, the fuel delivery pipe - to match the horizontal pattern of the images posted earlier in this thread. My cogitation yesterday led me to think the coolant and lubrication delivery bits might not be necessary, but clients, as they do, have other ideas. So, rethinking my scheme a little, I decided to roll with what came in the packet.
After some careful straightening and removal of flash and casting pips, and with nothing actually broken by this stage, I began adding the pipes from the supplied rubbery tube.
Of course, there isn't enough! The instructions imply there ought to be at least a foot of tubing. I got about eight inches. Fair enough, I thought. Time to break into the bits box. The coolant unit, on the left, has been given some hoses using some very flexible rubber cord I bought a while back. Drilling out the castings and super gluing things in seems to have worked. The remaining pipes are trimmed from the original tube, with some wire stuffed down it to make it hold a shape.
Now, I have to figure out how these parts will be disposed in the tin shack that's next on the list!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Here's my reinterpretation of the fuelling point.
Styrene base, with a rough and ready scribed drainage grid. I think I might be tempted to mount this on some foam board to give a little depth for the shelter skeleton to slot into. Speaking of the shelter, you might see a hint of the material I shall use in the background of this shot.
I guess my next move will be to begin making the shelter itself.
Styrene base, with a rough and ready scribed drainage grid. I think I might be tempted to mount this on some foam board to give a little depth for the shelter skeleton to slot into. Speaking of the shelter, you might see a hint of the material I shall use in the background of this shot.
I guess my next move will be to begin making the shelter itself.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Wow. That worked out way better than I had hoped.
1mm brass rod, lots of adding up, cutting out and some soldering with the aid of some pins to keep it all aligned. I think I've impressed myself!
1mm brass rod, lots of adding up, cutting out and some soldering with the aid of some pins to keep it all aligned. I think I've impressed myself!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
After some solvent abuse, and some careful trimming of the sheets of corrugated material, this is the result.
Although this model is 7mm scale, I have found in the past that the scenic products of Wills are slightly over scale for their expected 4mm scale. In fact, if you squint, the asbestos sheet they produce is not a million miles off about the right sort of size for a sheet of corrugated steel in O gauge. As I wanted the interior to be corrugated as well, the obvious choice is the vacuum-formed clear "asbestos style" glazing material.
I'm letting the glue set for a while, then I want to get some primer blown over the structure this evening. I'll be out and about for much of tomorrow, so by the time I get back things ought to be in a position for me to get some weathering on the shack, and paint the concrete base.
Job's done!
Although this model is 7mm scale, I have found in the past that the scenic products of Wills are slightly over scale for their expected 4mm scale. In fact, if you squint, the asbestos sheet they produce is not a million miles off about the right sort of size for a sheet of corrugated steel in O gauge. As I wanted the interior to be corrugated as well, the obvious choice is the vacuum-formed clear "asbestos style" glazing material.
I'm letting the glue set for a while, then I want to get some primer blown over the structure this evening. I'll be out and about for much of tomorrow, so by the time I get back things ought to be in a position for me to get some weathering on the shack, and paint the concrete base.
Job's done!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
After a dose of grey primer it's still a bit see-through. Later I shall get some time to paint it with enamels, which is a shame as I'd hoped the primer would be sufficient.
I need a couple of hooks for the coolant hoses, and to paint the base.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Paul, it scales at just over 21ft. I've guesstimated from the Inverness photo linked to earlier, where the overhang is comfortably some way above the top of the loco standing next to it.
I can't say why the Inverness shacks would be so much taller, but it's what the client wanted.
Actually, now I come to review it - cold light of day and all that - I reckon I could chop bit off the bottom. I have made it a bit taller than the photo!
I can't say why the Inverness shacks would be so much taller, but it's what the client wanted.
Actually, now I come to review it - cold light of day and all that - I reckon I could chop bit off the bottom. I have made it a bit taller than the photo!
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
That's a little less overpowering! As ever, thanks for pointing me in the right direction and making me do it right!
Pete Harvey
Active Member
Nice build Heather
Its nice when you can do something like this with it when you're short on space.
View attachment 40488
Pete
Its nice when you can do something like this with it when you're short on space.
View attachment 40488
Pete
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I am impressed with that, Pete!
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Would oil tanks actually be allowed in that configuration as there's no bund in to which any spilled oil will drop - or if the tank splits!
I know that, when I was at work, all liquid chemicals and oil had to be kept in secure compounds or in transportable bunds. Of course, I also know that in the 50s and probably through the 60s things were much more relaxed.
Brian
I know that, when I was at work, all liquid chemicals and oil had to be kept in secure compounds or in transportable bunds. Of course, I also know that in the 50s and probably through the 60s things were much more relaxed.
Brian
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
That'll do. Grubby, rusty and oily.
I suppose if better sort out delivery.