O-EM-OO9 workbench - LMS 16t minerals

Firehead

Firehead

Active Member
76043 said:
The now yellow diesel wheelslips as it's only 20g. All the other RTR locos weigh between 45-60 grams. There's not a huge amount of room in the bonnet and cab for the nearly 30 - 40 grams of weight needed. The decoder and stayalive need to fit in too.

Any thoughts on the liquid gravity stuff? Nobody seems to know what it's made of?

deluxematerials.co.uk

Liquid Gravity

240g pack A brand new non-toxic, easy flowing, weighting system for scale military models, railway rolling stock, model planes, boats and cars. Specially designed to pour into small cavities and set in place with your favourite Roket cyano (AD43-46), or Speed Epoxy. Use to improve electric...
deluxematerials.co.uk deluxematerials.co.uk

Cheers
Tony
Click to expand...

The packaging is remarkably silent on what it actually is, but discussions elsewhere have suggested it is possibly steel shot, as used in shot blasting.

I have succesfully used it in the past, secured with cheap super glue. I have some that I used 5 years ago, and it's not rusted or fallen out yet.

Hope this helps
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
A couple of rotund whitemetal crew figures in the cab would help bring the weight up. Also an oil drum on the footplate and even a piece bag made from a scrap of lead sitting on the control desk. In the words of the ad 'every little helps'
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
I asked the supplier for an MSDS (material safety data sheet) and simply got no reply.

I guess one could measure its density, which would give a clue.

Tungsten is quoted as 18-19.3 g/cm3 and around £80-150 per kilo, lead shot is around 11.3 and around £4.70/kg and steel is only 7.8, and about £4 per kilo. You generally have to buy in 5 or 10kg packs, but it might be possible to buy smaller amounts on eBay.

Lead shot is being banned for environmental reasons, but is currently available. Do not mix it with PVA adhesives, but it is fine with cyano and epoxy.

I bought a plastic bottle, about a litre, of #8 lead shot, about 20 years ago, I’ve still got over half of it left!
 
J

John Bruce

Western Thunderer
simond said:
I asked the supplier for an MSDS (material safety data sheet) and simply got no reply.

I guess one could measure its density, which would give a clue.

Tungsten is quoted as 18-19.3 g/cm3 and around £80-150 per kilo, lead shot is around 11.3 and around £4.70/kg and steel is only 7.8, and about £4 per kilo. You generally have to buy in 5 or 10kg packs, but it might be possible to buy smaller amounts on eBay.

Lead shot is being banned for environmental reasons, but is currently available. Do not mix it with PVA adhesives, but it is fine with cyano and epoxy.

I bought a plastic bottle, about a litre, of #8 lead shot, about 20 years ago, I’ve still got over half of it left!
Click to expand...
Buying in bulk always seems like a good idea!

John Bruce.
 
76043

76043

Western Thunderer
Thanks All for your replies. I did find this data sheet for liquid gravity, but it doesn't say much about the content.

Looks like lead shot or sheet might be the best option.

Tony
 

Attachments

  • 359_BD38.pdf
    204.7 KB · Views: 3
76043

76043

Western Thunderer
I wasn't happy with the yellow front end so started to strip it with my usual Tesco Kitchen Cleaner, but no deal. Now I've got a worn BR blue finish, which could be useful!

IMG_20250424_090719081_HDR.jpg

Any suggestions for enamel paint stripper that isn't too toxic? I've tried Dettol before but seems like I shouldn't have washed it off with water, but brushed it off, then used water at the end.

Cheers
Tony
 
P

Pete_S

Western Thunderer
Caustic Soda is my usual choice these days.

Caveats:
It's exothermic, so let the solution cool before immersion;
Don't use it anywhere near Aluminium, Zinc or Bakelite.
 
Mick LNER

Mick LNER

Western Thunderer
From the Dark side


Recipe for a universal model paint stripper - takes any kind of paint off plastic and can be reused many times - Given me by a longtime industrial paint chemist who was also a longtime railway modeller - will not hurt any kind of plastic, so glazing can be left in situ if you prefer, makes brass detail parts fizz a bit - although it won't hurt them. I've been using it successfully for years



Mix 3oz (roughly two tablespoons)of caustic soda flakes into 800ml of cold water, adding flakes gradually. When caustic soda is mixed into water bring up to 1 litre with 200 ml of Metho/Meths/Methylated Spirit (if metho not available Isopropyl Alchohol is a good substitute)



That's it ! Resultant liquid will be a yellowy colour - I keep mine in a large biscuit jar with a plastic screw cap lid and simply immerse loco bodies in the jar for about 10-15 minutes before removing and scrubbing the paint off with an old toothbrush under cold running water. The mix is effective at paint removal til it goes to an almost black colour, at which time its still great for pouring down the drain !





Works very well on metal kits , I have not tried it on Plastic.
 
76043

76043

Western Thunderer
I did some testing with offcuts from the Knightwing sprue and found a weak acetone and meths do not soften the plastic but do remove the paint.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

IMG_20250425_081852733_HDR.jpg

This looks worse than it is due to not being left in the meths too long, awaiting the sprue test results this morning. So it's going to have a longer bath over the weekend....
Tony
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top