7mm On Heather's Workbench - raising the Standard

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I woke this morning with a nagging suspicion I need to check my references more carefully. Do both ends of these coaches have the full complement of steps? What reason would anyone need to clamber up on top of a coach if there's no toilet filler gubbins to deal with?

Hmm. Time for a coffee and a ponder.
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
In this instance both ends Heather have them as built - c/w long handrail and handrail on the roof at the van end, if you're modelling the BR Crimson & Cream era.... Most modern shots show the van end with the long handrail removed or replaced though.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Bob! Would it be a short handrail on the right side of the van end?

Incidentally, leafing through books and photos on the internet is one of my favourite parts of our hobby. You might look at a photo a hundred times, and yet you'll spot something new if you're looking for something specific.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
More ends.

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As I've recounted before, you can see the inside of the vestibules through door windows. Strictly speaking, this isn't visible on the TSO, because the toilet partitions block the view, but while I was in full fabrication mode I couldn't help myself. Likewise, with the representation of the boarding in the van end. :oops::drool:

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The outsides of the BSK.

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The TSO. Again, one end will be hidden by the toilets, but the other will be visible. I need to add a representation of the lighting switch panel, but I don't think I'll bother with the waste paper bin or the heating radiator.

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Laurie from JLTRT informs me a bunch of replacement bits is winging its way to me, so I will be able to press on with underframes and so on. Tomorrow, I think I'll check the paint - which has had more than two days to harden - and see about masking the sides for the crimson coats. The ends will have to wait for the lighting connectors, but handrails will be left until the body is almost complete.

I do enjoy bodging about with styrene.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I've been mildly revising the paint shop. Thanks to a discount sale weekend at a local DIY superstore chain, I've acquired a 35l Really Useful Box to act as a covered drying area. Room enough to lay out coach sides and even complete models under cover while the paint dries.

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After sufficient cream comes the carmine. I had an interesting discussion with Adrian Swain (ABS) at Scaleforum about the colour. He is of the opinion that Precision's Carmine is too close to maroon, and was unhappy that it was so hard to get a good representation of the colour he remembered. I think he's probably right about the Precision shade, but it's the one I've got and I'll have to stick with it. Not having direct personal experience of the livery in the real world, I rely on colour books and preserved lines, both of which are not reliable sources in my experience.

Anyway, I should just say that I am now using Precision's own quick air-drying thinners, and the difference is remarkable. White spirit is now just for cleaning up afterwards!

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The ends after a quick squirt of red oxide primer.

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And then after a squirt of matt black. I think the Humbrol tinlet I'm using is past its best, as there's a certain granularity to the paint when sprayed. I will need to clean the ends up before they get a further coat, and I suspect I will open a fresh(er) tinlet of Matt 33 this time.

I'm still waiting for a package of delights from Irvine. They'll probably be here tomorrow, so in the meantime I shall research interior colours a little further while the paint dries.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I've been mildly revising the paint shop. Thanks to a discount sale weekend at a local DIY superstore chain, I've acquired a 35l Really Useful Box to act as a covered drying area. Room enough to lay out coach sides and even complete models under cover while the paint dries.
So how are you using the box during spraying???? If you are spraying inside the Really Useful Box then how do you keep the box clean? If as a covered area for preventing lurgies in the fresh paint then how do you move the parts from spray booth to drying area?

Anyway, I should just say that I am now using Precision's own quick air-drying thinners, and the difference is remarkable. White spirit is now just for cleaning up afterwards!
So what is the difference as a result of using Precision thinners?

regards, Graham
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
So how are you using the box during spraying???? If you are spraying inside the Really Useful Box then how do you keep the box clean? If as a covered area for preventing lurgies in the fresh paint then how do you move the parts from spray booth to drying area?

Okay, first things first: this new box is not the one I spray in. That's another, older, deeper section box, much covered in overspray. :thumbs:

Only sprayed items are put in the new box, with a layer of paper in the bottom to catch any damp paint. Then it's covered with a loose lid (the one I used to use in the Advanced Air Drying Facility, funnily enough). A painted item is moved by hand to the box - I have developed a knack for picking up painted items without touching the painted surface. The loose lid is easy to lift and replace.

(Inevitably, some particles settle in the paint, but I'm working to minimise that, and the next bigger phase of redevelopment in the paint shop ought to see an end to most grollies.)

So what is the difference as a result of using Precision thinners?

It's formulated for the paint. I have had acceptable results with the plain old white spirit, but there was a notable improvement with the new stuff. I found I could lower the thinners to paint ratio slightly, and the coverage was better, which means fewer coats required to get the finish I want.

It ain't cheap, mind. I bought a litre tin, the largest they provide. It cost me a score and revif saucepans, a pony, twenty-five knicker. :eek: Worth every penny. :thumbs:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Today's work has been interrupted by domestic issues over telephone and broadband. I'm still waiting for a call regarding the latter - though it's not about faults, and all about moving to a better package.

Anyway, crimson is coating the coach sides to my satisfaction, though I have a small amount of retouching to do on two sides where some dust got in early on and leaves the primer showing when cleaned up. The ends have been de-gritted, and will be brush-painted with another coat of black, then sealed with a gloss varnish. Hopefully, the sides will be treated the same way soon, which means transfers can be done.

Meanwhile, a pack of goodies arrived. I can start on the underframes very soon. :thumbs:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I was hoping to get on with things early this morning, but technical glitches over photo backup hard drives took up way too much of my time.

Anyway, state of play with painting:

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The ends are varnished. I now have the lighting connectors, and I've realised the early coaches had a wide footstep above the gangway. Otherwise, these are safely stashed waiting for the sides to be completed.

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One TSO side has been gloss varnished, while the remaining side and the BSK needed completion and a spot of remedial work. I went ahead and varnished the second side, and then remembered there was a bit of cream paint that needed retouching, so I am now waiting for the varnish to dry before I redo it! :oops::rolleyes:

The BSK sides suffered a little crimson paint creep around door bumpers, hinges and handles. Not unexpected, and while it's annoying it's nothing I'll fret about. I'll deal with cleaning it up and then can varnish both sides. Then both coaches can be lettered and lined. :thumbs:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
In my never-ending quest to perfect the interiors of model coaches, I feel I have made a step forward.

The hardest thing for me has been to replicate the colour of the wooden veneers used in Mk1 coaches. In the past, I fear the interiors for coaches I have built were simply too dark (sorry Richard :oops:) . Studying images, albeit of preserved vehicles, on Flickr shows the veneers to have a warm orangey glow, but it does depend on the timber used and the lighting conditions when photographed.

As examples, here's the view along a coach corridor:
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East Anglian Railway Museum by Deptford Draylons, on Flickr

And, while this user won't let me display the photo, here's a view inside the passenger cabin of an open coach.

As you may recall, if you followed my other coach builds, I like to paint the wooden interiors and apply a dry-brushed grain effect over a base colour. I'm not going to try and match the mirrored pattern of the veneer, and to be honest most of the colour won't be visible at normal viewing distances. It's the overall effect I'm after, so I have to beat down my inner detail freak! All I am looking for is a more accurate rendition of the average interior colour.

The interiors of JLTRT coaches are made of various materials. The BSK is black styrene and pale resin, with a brass etched luggage cage. The TSO has brass floor, nice looking brass etched tables, black styrene and pale resin. Where I've detailed the inside of the ends, I've used white styrene. Being a lazy tyke, and not wanting to disturb the sides while the gloss varnish cured, I refused to prime everything and I spent a relaxing time brush-painting the various parts.

I set about mixing an orangey tan colour for a base coat, eventually settling on roughly 3 parts Humbrol Matt 63 and 1 part Matt 70, which I thinned down to a fairly watery consistency. The first coat didn't give sufficient coverage on the black styrene, although the effect on the resin toilet compartments was pretty close to what I wanted. Bear in mind I expected to overpaint grain effects, and finish with a satin varnish which generally darkens the colour and gives it more depth.

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I let this paint dry overnight, and thought about it again this morning. I decided to mix the paint slightly thicker this time, and recoat all the surfaces that would be veneered on the real coach so everything was more or less the same base colour. It's all now drying, for at least 24 hours, before I consider the grain effect.

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Here's the ends. At the back you can see I've painted one end, for the van end of the BSK, in a different colour (plain Matt 70), which is my mistake.

I'm trying to get the interior colours of the BSK correct, and from my reading of The Bible (Parkins' books on the Mk1s) the luggage area was painted in terracotta. Originally, it was meant to follow LMS practice with Venetian Red up to about 4ft, and buff or light tan above, with roof lining in white; this was later amended to Venetian Red up to the roof line, and subsequently it appears to be terracotta. Matt 70 is a sort of brick red, and I surmise once it's coated in satin varnish it'll darken down a notch or two, giving a reasonable terracotta. Study of photos, however, shows the end to be finished to match the roof, or at least buff if not white. Hence my mistake.

The photos in the early chapters of Parkins' book show lots of detail inside the brake end of the BSK/BFK. I know the inside of the guard's compartment was painted buff, so what about the short corridor from the passenger end to the luggage section? Knowing many black and white films are orthochromatic, meaning they render some colours - particularly reds - darker or lighter than they should be, and the corridor shot shows the fire equipment as a pale grey, I reasoned if reds are showing as light, then the corridor is probably finished in terracotta.

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So, here's the first coat of interior colour on the BSK. You can see I've scribed the doors, as is my habit. The guard's compartment is currently still in the mucky brown the previous builder slapped all over!

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Here's the TSO, after first coat. The toilet compartments are left unpainted, because you can't see them.

Everything is now drying before I do the grain effect. I've also painted the seats for both coaches. As they're both second class, I believe the correct mocquette is dark red/maroon, so out with the brick red again! I plan to wash over with dilute black once they're dry to give a little modelling and shading. I'm not bothering with patterns. Life's too short! I think I'm already doing more than many builders try to do, present company excepted. The woodwork has been painted in the veneer base coat.

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The TSO kit is a first for me, in that the floor is a brass etch. Likewise, the tables are a nice shiny etch, which will fold up into neat representations of the removable ones the real thing used. Looking forward to gluing all the plastic to the metal. :confused:

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Mmm, shiny! Both floor and tables are now red oxide, drying in the paint shop.

While all this paint hardens, I shall set about underframes. More on that another time.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
In between completely rejigging our home studio space, and arranging and sorting out shelf space for the modelling commissions that were piling up on the floor, I've been fettling away at the interiors.

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I overpainted the base coat to simulate the veneer. I thought I'd have a go at simulating the patterns made by the veneers, which were often split in such a way that the grain would be mirrored across a panel. All I've done here is mix up Matt 70 and Matt 33 to give a slightly darker shade, and then used a No4 sized sable (actually from Humbrol rather than an art shop) to dry brush pretty patterns.

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Once the grain is dry, a coat of satin varnish helps add a bit of depth, subtle shine, and brings out the grain a little better. Note how I've attempted a countershade either side of the door.

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Toilet compartments drying. A satisfying sheen, even though much of the pattern won't be visible once the coach is assembled. At least I'll know it's there!

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I am particularly pleased with how the TSO seats have turned out. The painting sequence was this:
  • Coat of Matt 70 (brick red) on the upholstery
  • Coat of mixed wood base on the woodwork
  • Dirty black thinned right down and allowed to run into the cushions to provide some shading
  • Drybrushed Matt 153 (crimson red) on the upholstery
  • Drybrushed grain colour on the woodwork
  • Satin varnish on the woodwork.
The photographed pair show I was a bit heavy-handed with the grain. :oops:

Essentially, all the insides are now painted and ready for assembly. I still have the tables to fold up and paint, but otherwise I can turn my attentions to the underframes.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Cripes! Has it really been that long since the last update?

I've been fettling underframes. Well, fettling one underframe to be precise. The reason for concentrating on the BSK underparts is really because it still uses the slightly incorrectly scaled brass fret truss. I know where I am with the brass knitting, and didn't want to make a horlicks of the cast whitemetal and folded brass version on the TSO.

I've also set about fitting the buffing gear and buckeyes. The BSK will generally live at one end or the other of a train, so I usually fit the van end with the buckeye in dropped form, leaving a hook to couple to the motive power. The passenger end has the working buckeye.

I'm using the JLTRT kit buckeyes for this build. They can be a bit of a fiddle, especially if holes haven't been cast properly, but they look the part. I had some spare ones in the Bits Box, but didn't have the etched plate affair. I ordered a complete kit, and made a styrene version for the BSK. I also worked out a simple side control spring for the working coupling.

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I'm quite pleased with that.

The buffer stocks needed drilling out to give a sliding fit for the heads. I don't remember this being a problem before, but it took a while to drill through and broach out each stock. Sore fingers are no fun. :( The van end has the fully-extended buffers with simple wire springing, while the other features the retracted version.

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Try as I might, it's all but impossible to build the etched truss assembly without a slight twist. I worked carefully through the construction, checking and rechecking at each joint, and limited the twist to a tiny amount over the whole length.

The etched truss is a scale six inches or so too deep, but I'm not worried about it. Put simply, while the cast cross members are the correct depth, they can't be used with the BSK etched longitudinals because they're designed to fit the incorrect etched cross members. The TSO kit has the cast and etched parts, and hopefully they'll fit without the air turning blue...

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The etched truss assembly never sits properly, so I spent a while fettling, filing and gently bending parts to the things to bed down. I wasn't helped by the floor moulding having a dip - in the wrong way. Hopefully, tape and epoxy will hold things together.

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I'm having a four pound "wait" while the epoxy goes off. :D

I think I'll look at completing the bogies for this coach while things set.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I've still been fettling the BSK underframe. I hope the TSO won't take so long. :oops:

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Various parts for the vacuum brake rigging, which I set about while waiting for the epoxy to set on the truss.

Clockwise from the top left: direct admission valves with copper wire pipework that'll fit into the cylinders; the cylinder castings, which have had the trunnions cut off and the whole body drilled through to take a 0.9mm wire as replacement trunnion (these castings are pretty clean, for a change); cross shafts, which are brass castings I've had to straighten and clean up; cylinder trunnion supports, brass castings which have been carefully bent into the correct shape; cylinder operating levers, which are back-to-back etches sweated together and carefully folded to give a fork to go around the cylinder centre; brake pull/push rod adjusters; outer vee hangers.

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All of which fits together like this. The DA valve is soldered to the truss, although I didn't bend this one quite enough so the end doesn't meet the floor. I soldered the trunnion supports to the wire running right through the cylinder casting so it was free to swing (ooer!). Before fitting, I had also attached the operating lever, and then superglued the whole thing in place with the outer vee. The brake cross shaft was then threaded through the pull rod and cylinder lever, and gently prised into the fee hangers. A touch of solder at each end, and then solder to hold each lever at the right angle. The pull rod floats in space and will be lost in the bogie.

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The electrical gubbins caused me some head-scratching. First, I should explain that the standard JLTRT Mk1 floor moulding is not correct for the BSK. Under the guard's compartment doors there is a pair of steps, presumably to allow access to the vehicle from track level. The location of these steps means the regulator cradle and fuse box have to be shifted from the more orthodox location on ordinary coaches, otherwise maintenance staff simply wouldn't be able to work on them without taking the steps off. It's worth noting, too, the battery boxes are not diagonally opposite one another, but both under the passenger section. Another thing is the dynamo is always under the van section - at least as far as every BSK I've seen photos of. Essentially, ignore all the neat depressions in the moulded floor for anything on the underframe in this kit!

Speaking of dynamos, I added a preference to the "extra items" post at the beginning of this thread. I referred to opting to use Cavalier LMS dynamo castings.

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On the left, the standard JLTRT GWR dynamo. On the right, the LMS pattern. Several things to note here: first, the support bracket is much more substantial; second the dynamo itself has more detail; third, the electrical connection box already has holes for the wiring loom, and there's even a moulded depression to attach the safety chain.

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Here's the detailed dynamo being fitted. I've opted to drill out the bracket base to take two 0.7mm brass wire pins, with matching holes in the floor, as added security over just glue.

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The copper wire loom adds a nice touch to underframes, I think. The loop at the end is to give plenty of purchase for gluing. The dynamo isn't fixed at this point, which is why it's a bit lopsided. It's been left off, as have the other electrical bits, to let me slop some paint over the frames before some bits are made inaccessible.

I really ought to set about getting brake gear and paint on the bogies. Perhaps I'll look at that this evening. I doubt there's anything at all interesting on the TV.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Bogie time! Oh, how I love coach bogies. </irony>

;)

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The previous builder had the good grace to do all the building for me. All I need to do is retrofit some basic brake detail.

All I need to do. Where's that irony thing again? :rolleyes:

The first bogie I picked up seemed to have one axlebox glued up solid. Some gentle persuasion eventually freed it, along with the hornguide it was glued to. :rant: Still, it's whitemetal, and a dab or two of low-melt solder soon fixed things. Good as new. Now I could remove all the wheelsets and see what was what.

I then spent a while pondering how to get the ABS brake shoes (the ones really meant for fitted wagon stock, but the best match according the Adrian Swain to the BR style of brake shoe) to fit around the wheels and look like they were meant to be there. It was quite obvious from the start it wouldn't simply be a case of slot the brake casting in place, dab of solder and away we go. It seemed some surgery would be needed to the brake bits.

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Quite a bit of surgery, to be honest. Snips, with files large and small, eventually left me with several sets of matched brake shoes. I say matched because ABS casts them with holes for the cross-beams to pop in place. Neat.

A bit more pondering, offering up shoes with a wheelset in place, and eventually I figured out where to fix things with a minimum of fiddle. As it turned out, a small amount of material needed to be removed from the inner part of the bogie end crossmembers. I hope the following will show what I mean.

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You can see in each corner a cast plate, onto which the cast crossmember fits, on a peg. On the left hand side in the photo are the unmodified plates. Those on the right have been filed down to approximately half the thickness. Even with this minor modification, the brake shoe and hanger needs to be carefully bent so the shoe itself sits in line with the wheel.

At this point I know what you're thinking. "Cast metal brake shoes, steel wheels, it's all going to end horribly in a shower of sparks."

I did consider the problem of shorting. I considered the idea of gluing a thin strip of styrene or a smear of epoxy on to each shoe. Happily, the previous builder had arranged things such that there is minimal side play on the wheelsets, so I decided to simply fix the brake shoes so that they are clear of the wheel tyres. Yes, they are further away from the wheels than perhaps they could be, but this is O Finescale, and once everything is dark and grungy, it won't look too bad. I hope.

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Here's the modified bogie on the left, compared to the unmodified one to the right. Now I can see the outer shoes need to be lowered a gnat's... :oops:

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Modified bogie, where you can just make out where the brake bits have been shoehorned into the structure.

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Unmodified. Not sure why the previous builder decided to file down the bolster. I may have to knock together a styrene or brass replacement to ensure the ride height is the same both ends.

Another day or so of fettling should see the bogies on both coaches done. Then I shall build the TSO underframe, and then I'll soon be able to assemble both coaches.

I can be optimistic, can't I? :))
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The photos show that the whitemetal BR Standard bogies were designed to have fulcrum levers hanging from the short transoms, a similar design feature to the JLTRT bogies for the Gresley carriages. All of our JLTRT Gresley kits have the fulcrum lever supports... none of our JLTRT Gresley kits have any other part of the brake gear.

Anyone ever seen a JLTRT whitemetal bogie with brake blocks / brake yokes / fulcrum levers etc., etc.?

Anyone ever asked Laurie what (unused) masters were made for the bogies?

regards, Graham
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The only JLTRT bogie kit I've ever seen with brake gear is the brass BR1 kit.

I think Laurie is aware of the shortcomings, but we all know what the answer will be. :(
 
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