4mm Orchard Hill - a narrow gauge indulgence.

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
Some while back I announced the fact that age and health in vicious combination had completely curtailed most of my schemes for railway modelling - I believe the modern term is 'cancelled' :rolleyes:! Thus I was left with my small collection of material and stock which is highly suitable for fashioning the small country terminal 'somewhere in the Allgau ' that I dreamed of........:oops:. I also had some H0e/009 stock in hand - a mixture of both scales which are barely distinguishable when used in harmony any way - and those with a good memory may recall I did mention when closing down the other schemes that narrow gauge was still a possibility. So, this is what came to be. Before embarking on the initial description, I must advise that uploading photographs on my machine is still a problem but definitely on the way to being solved. They will, I hope, be supplied soon.

The first move in considering this layout was that it would be a classic 4' x 2' micro unit - there was no larger space available for it. Secondly, as certain skills appear to reduce - it's that b----y age thing again! - I opted to use Peco 009 set-track and 009 flex-track where suitable. This, I hoped would prevent 'pinches' on the curves which I regret to say are rather more frequent than one would hope on many exhibition layouts I have seen. I appreciate that one can see some very rough track on industrial narrow gauge systems but there are limits! The track would consist of a basic circuit with a siding area on the operators side, or front and a single passing loop-cum-storage siding at the rear behind a scenic barrier. This track plan looked alright on paper and has proved itself in practice now. Materials were obtained - the discovery of two first-rate mail-order suppliers has been an added bonus.

First the baseboard. I took the easy way out here. I bought a sheet of 9mm plywood - this I thought would be 1200 x 300mm but in actual fact was the exact metric equivalent of 4' x 2' :eek: when I checked the label on it (good old B&Q :))), This was braced with 11/2" x 3/4" (38 x 18mm) PSE with two cross beams 1" (25mm) square to accept saw-horse trestle units that I have. This gave a manageable unit in weight and size that I could still handle. It also fitted nicely on my former work bench in my den. The top surface was then coated with 1/8th" cork sheet,

The track was then laid and with one revision being made to the original plan, namely the points used for the loop which were changed from electro-frog to set-track to give a longer siding, the wiring was connected and test running commenced. Control is by a Morley Vector Zero Two - an excellent unit for analogue work, which I always use.

So that is the progress so far. Once again I have been slowed right down by seasonal illness, but at least I have a modelling project on the go again and when all else fails just sit and watch my "Little England" circulate with a few vans........back to childhood once more. Well, I never really left it :)).

Hopefully some more news soon.........

Roger ;).

PS - I still keep thinking about an H0 diorama with the 'Allgau' bits and bobs.............:rolleyes:!
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Some while back I announced the fact that age and health in vicious combination had completely curtailed most of my schemes for railway modelling - I believe the modern term is 'cancelled' :rolleyes:! Thus I was left with my small collection of material and stock which is highly suitable for fashioning the small country terminal 'somewhere in the Allgau ' that I dreamed of........:oops:. I also had some H0e/009 stock in hand - a mixture of both scales which are barely distinguishable when used in harmony any way - and those with a good memory may recall I did mention when closing down the other schemes that narrow gauge was still a possibility. So, this is what came to be. Before embarking on the initial description, I must advise that uploading photographs on my machine is still a problem but definitely on the way to being solved. They will, I hope, be supplied soon.

The first move in considering this layout was that it would be a classic 4' x 2' micro unit - there was no larger space available for it. Secondly, as certain skills appear to reduce - it's that b----y age thing again! - I opted to use Peco 009 set-track and 009 flex-track where suitable. This, I hoped would prevent 'pinches' on the curves which I regret to say are rather more frequent than one would hope on many exhibition layouts I have seen. I appreciate that one can see some very rough track on industrial narrow gauge systems but there are limits! The track would consist of a basic circuit with a siding area on the operators side, or front and a single passing loop-cum-storage siding at the rear behind a scenic barrier. This track plan looked alright on paper and has proved itself in practice now. Materials were obtained - the discovery of two first-rate mail-order suppliers has been an added bonus.

First the baseboard. I took the easy way out here. I bought a sheet of 9mm plywood - this I thought would be 1200 x 300mm but in actual fact was the exact metric equivalent of 4' x 2' :eek: when I checked the label on it (good old B&Q :))), This was braced with 11/2" x 3/4" (38 x 18mm) PSE with two cross beams 1" (25mm) square to accept saw-horse trestle units that I have. This gave a manageable unit in weight and size that I could still handle. It also fitted nicely on my former work bench in my den. The top surface was then coated with 1/8th" cork sheet,

The track was then laid and with one revision being made to the original plan, namely the points used for the loop which were changed from electro-frog to set-track to give a longer siding, the wiring was connected and test running commenced. Control is by a Morley Vector Zero Two - an excellent unit for analogue work, which I always use.

So that is the progress so far. Once again I have been slowed right down by seasonal illness, but at least I have a modelling project on the go again and when all else fails just sit and watch my "Little England" circulate with a few vans........back to childhood once more. Well, I never really left it :)).

Hopefully some more news soon.........

Roger ;).

PS - I still keep thinking about an H0 diorama with the 'Allgau' bits and bobs.............:rolleyes:!

Bravo, Roger :thumbs:

Most sensible at present, Roger, until better health returns.

Perhaps our compact NG adventure, as described, will be the precursor to Allgau after all ;)

Here’s to the pending photos.

Jon
 

ceejaydee

Western Thunderer
I started building a small OO9/HOe layout a few years back and it was a lot of fun.
All my stock went in a massive model railway cull a good while back but I could easily be tempted by a Kato England at some point.

There is lots of fun to be had with a simple track layout in a small space; I'm playing around with some ideas for a small N scale layout at the moment but I'm probably going to use Kato Unitrack so unlikely to be of interest on WT.

I look forward to pictures of your work and offer a re-post of one of my old layout.
Can't remember the exact size but they were 9" radius curves so maybe 20" x 30". Track was planned with Setrack but I laid it with Streamline and fed power to every piece of track - ran superbly.

2016-02-24-17-01-45-jpg.52669
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
At long last, a couple of pictures. These show the present early stages of work, not to mention the fact that I always seem to work in a 'heap'..........:rolleyes:!

Peco 'Little England' on a test run with the Roco 0-6-0T 'Anna' and train parked on the passing loop in the background. At the time of the photograph, the loop had yet to be modified as mentioned in the earlier test.

SAM_0081.JPG

An overall view showing the general layout plan, after being tidied up somewhat. It does show the need for revising the passing loop which has been seen to now. The additional locomotive with the tipper wagons in the sidings is a Lilliput unit - a delightful runner which I purchased in Bonn in 2011. SAM_0082.JPG

That is it for the present, though now I have the uploading problem solved, albeit by a far more convoluted system I hope that from time to time, news will be of the illustrated variety. Meanwhile, slow progress is continuing but fear not, to mis-quote Fu Manchu - "The Forum will hear from me again."............:eek: !

Roger, :).
 
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jonte

Western Thunderer
Plenty of interest without overcrowding the scene, Roger :thumbs:

I do like the look of the narrow gauge trackwork, and although you write to the contrary, I really wish I could work as tidily as you. I keep swearing I’ll turn over a new leaf…….

Btw: we seem to be using the same brand of glue; I appear to have that very tube :thumbs:

Incidentally, I’d appreciate the benefit of your experience here, Roger: does Pva glue affect the sound deadening properties of cork underlay (I’m assuming you’ve used the pva(?) glue shown in you photos) as I’m considering using it to glue down the cork underlay on my own project when the time comes?

Glad you’ve managed to overcome the uploading problem you were experiencing, amd hope the solution wasn’t/isn’t too onerous.

Best,

Jon
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
Incidentally, I’d appreciate the benefit of your experience here, Roger: does Pva glue affect the sound deadening properties of cork underlay (I’m assuming you’ve used the pva(?) glue shown in you photos) as I’m considering using it to glue down the cork underlay on my own project when the time comes?
Best,

Jon
In short, my friend - yes, I do use that glue in random dabs to secure the cork, and no, I have not noticed any reduction in sound deadening. I would hazard that if you coated the whole surface it may reduce the reduction of resonance by being totally rigid to the wood, whereas with my (typically :rolleyes:) idle method of random dabs an air cushion remains which would seem to help in maintaining the reduction effect. The only adverse effect is if you wish to lift the cork, it usually breaks up and remains stuck where the two materials have a glue-to-wood direct joint. It can be cleaned up with a good old-fashioned wall-paper scraper reasonably easily though.

Hope this helps.

Roger:thumbs:.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
In short, my friend - yes, I do use that glue in random dabs to secure the cork, and no, I have not noticed any reduction in sound deadening. I would hazard that if you coated the whole surface it may reduce the reduction of resonance by being totally rigid to the wood, whereas with my (typically :rolleyes:) idle method of random dabs an air cushion remains which would seem to help in maintaining the reduction effect. The only adverse effect is if you wish to lift the cork, it usually breaks up and remains stuck where the two materials have a glue-to-wood direct joint. It can be cleaned up with a good old-fashioned wall-paper scraper reasonably easily though.

Hope this helps.

Roger:thumbs:.

It does, Roger, thank you :thumbs:

Jon.
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
A further modicum of progress. For the benefit of those who are not familiar with my likes and dislikes in the tasks involved in our creations, one of my likes is hand operated points. It stems back to my fascination with Hornby 0 gauge tinplate track as a small boy, which continued when, following their reintroduction, I graduated (?) to 00 scale and Hornby-Dublo 3-rail hand-operated points within their track system. Very much frowned upon by many today who require details as fine as the drivers tie and socks to be correctly painted and sprung buffers are a 'must'........:rolleyes:!

(Curses ! - I must restrain myself and remember I'm an older generation modeller who never had these things as a child :eek:!)

To continue :): Having completed test running and decided that the track layout will be sufficiently entertaining, I have started to fit my usual hand operated point levers. I use Caboose Industries units - I have used these items for many years now, on a number of layouts with great success and reliability. As far as I know they are still available through specialist American dealers in the main, and to those who like neat hand-operated levers (or 'switch machines' as our US cousins say.) I would strongly recommend them. They are supplied with a variety of fittings allowing use with many makes of track. For me, the fact that this system works delightfully well without requiring wires and soldering is a boon beyond measure. (I hate wiring :eek:.) This system gives me a feeling of actual involvement when operating as opposed to all activities being achieved by just another button being selected. I do appreciate that the modern railway is worked that way now so if that is your scene it is quite appropriate. Not for me though - I'm just a tad too old fashioned :)).

Thus you may not be surprised to read that when I ordered my track requirements for correcting the passing loop, mentioned in post #8, I also ordered some uncoupling units too. These are also hand operated -surprise, surprise - but I am hoping that having them in appropriate locations will minimize derailments caused by 'thick fingers' in the goods yard. 009 wagons are extremely light and even a strong draught can actually blow certain types of vehicle off the track - that is just a fact of life that we live with. Needless to say, many methods to increase stability are known and employed but even these can be defeated :(. But still, it's a part of the hobby that is cheerfully accepted and one must always remember the late Lynn Westcott's remark - "Model railroading is fun!" I am now
in my late eighties and not as well as I would wish but I still enjoy playing trains and may you all continue to do so too :thumbs:!

I acknowledge this is just a very small amount of progress but after all Rome wasn't built in a day. I will endeavour to publish more news as soon as possible and will endeavour to get some pictures on here too

Roger ;).
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
A further modicum of progress. For the benefit of those who are not familiar with my likes and dislikes in the tasks involved in our creations, one of my likes is hand operated points. It stems back to my fascination with Hornby 0 gauge tinplate track as a small boy, which continued when, following their reintroduction, I graduated (?) to 00 scale and Hornby-Dublo 3-rail hand-operated points within their track system. Very much frowned upon by many today who require details as fine as the drivers tie and socks to be correctly painted and sprung buffers are a 'must'........:rolleyes:!

(Curses ! - I must restrain myself and remember I'm an older generation modeller who never had these things as a child :eek:!)

To continue :): Having completed test running and decided that the track layout will be sufficiently entertaining, I have started to fit my usual hand operated point levers. I use Caboose Industries units - I have used these items for many years now, on a number of layouts with great success and reliability. As far as I know they are still available through specialist American dealers in the main, and to those who like neat hand-operated levers (or 'switch machines' as our US cousins say.) I would strongly recommend them. They are supplied with a variety of fittings allowing use with many makes of track. For me, the fact that this system works delightfully well without requiring wires and soldering is a boon beyond measure. (I hate wiring :eek:.) This system gives me a feeling of actual involvement when operating as opposed to all activities being achieved by just another button being selected. I do appreciate that the modern railway is worked that way now so if that is your scene it is quite appropriate. Not for me though - I'm just a tad too old fashioned :)).

Thus you may not be surprised to read that when I ordered my track requirements for correcting the passing loop, mentioned in post #8, I also ordered some uncoupling units too. These are also hand operated -surprise, surprise - but I am hoping that having them in appropriate locations will minimize derailments caused by 'thick fingers' in the goods yard. 009 wagons are extremely light and even a strong draught can actually blow certain types of vehicle off the track - that is just a fact of life that we live with. Needless to say, many methods to increase stability are known and employed but even these can be defeated :(. But still, it's a part of the hobby that is cheerfully accepted and one must always remember the late Lynn Westcott's remark - "Model railroading is fun!" I am now
in my late eighties and not as well as I would wish but I still enjoy playing trains and may you all continue to do so too :thumbs:!

I acknowledge this is just a very small amount of progress but after all Rome wasn't built in a day. I will endeavour to publish more news as soon as possible and will endeavour to get some pictures on here too

Roger ;).

:thumbs:

Jon
 

Roger Pound

Western Thunderer
A further minor advance with this indulgence of mine. A name has been plucked from the ether and the little layout will be known as Orchard Hill. This will enable me to at last use a bulk(ish) purchase made some time back of modestly reasonable trees which had travelled all the way from Viet-Nam to the UK retailer! However, they are reasonable and relatively uniform so should , I hope, make a reasonable orchard - the actual crop has yet to be decided, :confused:. Attendant structures will, I am happy to think, be minimal.

Trackwork and wiring having been completed, including a minor modification to the 'yard' which has seen one siding lengthened and the other one removed. Test-running has been undertaken and a couple of wrinkles in the system ironed out, so now the locos and stock have been put in to storage whilst I start the scenery. The first job is the assembly of some buildings so that the siting of them can be done to enable the rising contours to be evolved, As this side of the hobby must rank as my favourite part, I hope further progress will soon be available for another report. So until then.........;)

Roger.
 
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