SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
It's the 1 B/C initially. He had one to handle, and very nice it looks, with the bottom curve of the tank being a brass casting.
Richard
Thanks
Sounds interesting, I am sure the wait will be very worthwhile.
Dave
It's the 1 B/C initially. He had one to handle, and very nice it looks, with the bottom curve of the tank being a brass casting.
Richard
Sounds like the same arrangement as the tanks on his Std4 tank. I had doubts about blending in the side sheets but it works out quite well. You need to make doubly sure that the castings are clean and square. In the casting process a couple of the Std 4 tank castings warped a bit so needed careful straightening before use. once soldered up then a bit of confidence is in order to attack it with a nice large 12" flat file to blend in the side sheet with the casting.It's the 1 B/C initially. He had one to handle, and very nice it looks, with the bottom curve of the tank being a brass casting.
Adrain, that might work for the Std 4 but not for a 9F tender which are riveted. trying to blend that in and preserve the riveting will be a nightmare I suspect.Sounds like the same arrangement as the tanks on his Std4 tank. I had doubts about blending in the side sheets but it works out quite well. You need to make doubly sure that the castings are clean and square. In the casting process a couple of the Std 4 tank castings warped a bit so needed careful straightening before use. once soldered up then a bit of confidence is in order to attack it with a nice large 12" flat file to blend in the side sheet with the casting.
Quite true but I suspect a man of your calibre will be able to do it.Adrain, that might work for the Std 4 but not for a 9F tender which are riveted. trying to blend that in and preserve the riveting will be a nightmare I suspect.
You over rate my calibre by some significant margin, well you would if you'd seen my recent desperations with this A3 regarding rivets and blending platework in!Quite true but I suspect a man of your calibre will be able to do it.
So a 1G for my BR(WR) 9F might be a wait then!It's the 1 B/C initially.
It's the 1 B/C initially. He had one to handle, and very nice it looks, with the bottom curve of the tank being a brass casting.
Richard
Drat and double drat! Wish I'd seen it, but I was too busy drooling over the Ivatt 2-6-0 to notice anything else!
Dan
A link or pointer would be appreciated if possible - I may need a supplier for a New Year Project.My most expensive purchase was three bags of Heike Flor to finish off the overgrowth on The ARSE. Now that I have found another source, I can put a block on the Blackwells, the UK importer,
sounds intriguing - we'll see who lets the cat out of the bag first - or should this be the WT Christmas competition!Very good to see Steph and Laurie's reactions. I'm sure Steph will let on about what we are up to soon........
For got to say that while I was talking to Dave Sharp I asked him about his idea of doing a Britannia, he said he would like to do one, just got to send him the website of those pictures that Mickoo sent me.
Len
Knock yourselves out...
Steph
The Ragstone Britannia was probably the best kit out there, since withdrawn and being updated I believe, the DJH as you note is a little tired and as someone once said here "a touch agricultural in the chassis area" The jury is still sort of out on the Seven models, I've looked in the box and the etchings look clean enough, whether it all fits well maybe another story. A MOK 9F I can probably walk by, a MOK Britannia I seriously doubt I'll be able to resist, one possibly even two.The DJH Brit is showing its age, I've just done one and have another to do. The boiler casting is badly pitted,
Just taken delivery of a 47 for myself and that is even worse, a bit of time with celly filler and wet and dry will sort it but with not much change out of £500 I don't think I should have to do correction work