Relife solder paste

[Jon Nazareth]

I’ve been using this solder paste recently. It’s a good product but, the soldered surface is left with a sticky residue which I’m assuming is the flux. It seems to me that the only thing that will shift this sticky residue is methylated spirits. I’ve attempted washing it off, including scrubbing, but no joy. I’m thinking that if it’s not completely removed then painting will be a problem. So, my question is, does anyone know of an alternative solder paste that doesn’t leave a sticky residue? I chose this paste over Carr’s as it was much cheaper.

Jon

 

[daifly]

Have you tried IPA? It’s cited as the best cleaner for flux. Also, the product is Relife not what your spellchecker has changed it to! I love the fact that it’s described as a no-clean product. Maybe for electrical work but not appropriate for our models.
Dave

 

[Fitzroy]

No-clean if you are soldering circuit boards, i.e produces a gucky varnish that will not corrode components or board tracks (supposedly). Nothing to do with prepping models.

 

[Stephen Freeman]

As I have said before no-clean does not mean no-clean for model making, just electricals

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Are we saying that nobody uses solder paste/cream for model making?

Jon

 

[DavidB]

Are we saying that nobody uses solder paste/cream for model making?

I don't. Can't get on with the stuff.

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

I find that solder cream works well with an RSU, have never got on with solder paste. Good old fashioned solder in 145C and 188C melting point is generally the best way to go.

Tim

 

[Fitzroy]

I use electrical type "no-clean" solder paste but I use it extremely sparingly and clean immediately after, leach off extra solder with copper braid, wipe as much flux off as possible with metho or 100%IPA and a rag, then mechanically clean off with a rotary wire -preferably steel- brush on a fast dental handpiece. It will affect paint if there are any traces, producing a crackle finish with automotive lacquers. I can be quite brutal because I am soldering tin plated steel, brass would take a bit of damage with this process. If you leave it it will get hard pretty quickly. I think metho is harder on paints/varnishes than IPA, so might work better.
Pieter

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Mm, the stuff I’m using, as I’ve said, leaves a sticky residue which is difficult to clean off from small indentations etc. I’ve never used ipa. Is it better than meths?

Jon

 

[simond]

I use IPA extensively, as I have it for cleaning 3DP. I don’t know if it’s “better” than meths, but it’s an effective solvent.

The other thing you might try is (very) hot water.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Thanks got that, Simon, I’ll see if I can buy some. I have tried washing and using an old toothbrush but hand hot water only. I haven’t tried the sonic tank as yet but that’s worth a try, I suppose.

Jon

 

[OzzyO]

If your going to use a ultrasonic bath try washing soda (but not with aluminium) and very hot water.

HTH

OzzyO.

 

[daifly]

Ideally, 100% IPA is the one to go for apparently. I bought it via Amazon.
Dave

 

[paulc]

Commercial cleaning product outlets also sell IPA .

 

[ovener]

CPC sell many different sizes and formats if that helps, and plenty of solder products etc. Not always the cheapest, but at least it's a proper company.
https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=ipa&gs=true

 

[Jon Nazareth]

water.

I tried very hot water, @ 80° plus, and left the loco body in the tank for 40 mins. I’d already cleaned off most of the residue but there were some inaccessible places. I did notice that the flux remained in those places. I cleaned the body a couple of more times before applying grey primer.

Jon

 

[OzzyO]

Hello Jon,

you could use something like this



this will work better than just water. You can also use it a number of times, just mix with warm/hot water.

If your going to use inflammables in the cleaner be very careful as it can get warm and give of more fumes.

ATB

OzzyO.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Ozzyo
I forgot to mention that I did use a good helping of washing soda in the tank. I’ll buy some of the above and see how I get on the next time that I carry out any soldering. I’m building a horse box at the moment but that’s using styrene so, no soldering there.
It’s a shame that these sorts of fluxes are so difficult to remove. The Relife solder is so easy to use, just a squirt, a bit of heat and job done! It’s just the cleaning that’s difficult .

Jon

 

[cctransuk]

The Relife solder is so easy to use, just a squirt, a bit of heat and job done! It’s just the cleaning that’s difficult .

When I tried solder paste in a syringe, the needle constantly blocked with dried paste.

Clearly you do not have this problem - what's the secret, please?

John Isherwood.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

John
No secret with this tube of paste. I did have a tube of Carrs and that did block but that was from lack of use. Ironically, and it’s a long story, the needle that I’m using at the moment did come from the Carrs paste, I simply unblocked it.

Jon