Rivermead Central

40057

Western Thunderer
A little more done to the Benham’s office building. The sloping roof is made and fitted:

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The roof is glued to the top of the MDF wall panels and nailed to the internal wooden frame. The heads of the four moulding pins still need some filler and paint to cover them. I will fit a fascia board under the roof overhang.

The roof is plywood recovered from a beyond-repair, 1950s-ish model building. It’s the same material that I used for the canopy on the front of the Benham’s warehouse (see my post #54). I believe the slate- and brick-effect plywood sheets used to make vintage model buildings were manufactured using patterned rollers to impress the design onto the surface of the wood. Suitably painted, the slate sheets make a convincing roof I think. The plywood sheet has some strength so helps turn the building into a properly rigid box that should resist any tendency to warping in the wooden frame.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
Back to basics. Layout building is great fun. It’s nice to create stuff. But the purpose of Rivermead Central is to provide for the operation and display, in an appropriate context, of interesting vintage model railway equipment. The layout is an adjunct to the preservation and study of the vintage models. I need to rebalance activity a little more towards the conservation and repair of vintage items.

In my posts #133–#135, I discussed the lead-alloy wheels fitted to the wagons made by Carette for Bassett-Lowke in the years 1909–1914. In post #135, I showed a photo of an MR loco-coal wagon I had bought cheaply as a spares donor, principally for the wheels. As usual, all four wheels were well out of true. The axles were bent and very rusty. I was sure I could not make up two useable wheel-sets from the wheels on the MR wagon, even using good axles and a wheel or two from my stock of spare parts. However, last week, from a specialist auction site, I was fortunate to get, @£3.33 each, three more similar Carette wagon wheel-sets. I was optimistic I would be able to assemble four more useable wheel-sets allowing two more wagons in the ‘repair queue’ to be returned to traffic.

After much testing of different wheels on different axles, I have two useable wheel-sets:

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I might manage a third acceptable wheel-set from the parts I have. Possibly. Most of the wheels however have axle holes that are not perpendicular to the wheel face, or are well off-centre, or both. They are never going to be any use.

In post #133 I expressed the opinion, based on careful examination, that Carette lead-alloy wagon wheels were possibly originally coated in a black lacquer or similar. One of the wheel-sets just purchased has confirmed this view. The wheels on the left wheel-set above are the most convincing I have yet seen that the wheels were black when they left the factory. There do appear to be tiny traces of black on the other wheels pictured above, but you have to look hard to see them. I think the lead-alloy wagon wheels were probably always black originally. It is possible that some were left unpainted, so lead colour when sold, but my working assumption is the wheels should be black. I will need to apply some thinned black paint to the wheel sets I have just made up to produce a matching set for a wagon.

Here is a close up of the wheel that is most unambiguously painted:

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So now I have to choose the lucky wagon from those waiting in the repair queue to be the recipient of the wheel sets just assembled. If I choose one that currently has Carette wheel sets fitted, albeit with some wheels too eccentric or out true to be useable as they are, I might get enough OK wheels and axles to make up another good pair of wheel sets. So then another wagon can be returned to traffic. However, the small proportion of useable wheels from the most recently obtained spare wheel sets is obliging me to consider other options for my Carette wagons needing replacement wheels. I just don’t think I will get enough sound original wheels to repair them all. ‘Plan B’ might be: Correct, repaired wheel-sets with true-running original wheels on my best Carette wagons. Post-WW2 Bassett-Lowke cast iron wagon wheels as the alternative for wagons for which I can’t get original-type wheel sets. The post-WW2 cast iron wagon wheels were offered as upgrades to replace the contemporary alloy wagon wheels. I shall be using the cast-iron wheels exactly as intended, except fitted to a wagon made forty years earlier. The Carette wheels and 1950s cast-iron wheels are of closely similar dimensions:

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In particular, the journal spacings and journal diameters are nearly identical, the wheel widths and diameters not very different. In 1910 and in 1950, the wheels were set at 27.0 mm back-to-back. Operationally, the two types of wheel set are interchangeable and equivalent — except the turned cast-iron wheels run better because they are round and true.

I have commented previously that every vintage item should be considered individually regarding whether to undertake conservation or repair work. I have two Carette wagons — both LNWR covered vans, as it happens — that are in really outstanding condition (they need cleaning and minor rust treatment, that’s all). I am sure both of these vans still have the wheel sets fitted at the factory. I am also sure, given the overall condition, that the wheel-sets have not been damaged in use. The wheel sets are ‘as made’ and original to the vehicles. In both cases, some wheels are undeniably not true running. The wagons stay on the track, but there is a visible wobble when running. When making up wheel sets using Carette lead-alloy wagon wheels, I would only accept truer running wheels than some of those on these vans. But these two vans will keep their wheels, with the wobble, as originally made.
 
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40057

Western Thunderer
I’m currently on a long train journey. It’s dark, no scenery to look at, but time to ponder.

What is a realistic model? A fundamental consideration for most on WT who have chosen to spend a chunk of their life trying to make them.

I think though there is more than one reasonable answer to that most basic question. Can I make a suggestion? How about: ‘The model that, in a given scale, most closely resembles the full-size object it is meant to represent is the most realistic’. There are pretty much bound to be some compromises in reproducing something in a much smaller size. But making allowances for that, getting as close as possible in overall similarity seems to me a reasonable measure of success.

An Edwardian period wagon will do as an example. Various models are currently available ready-to-run in all the popular scales. I will take it that at least the vast majority of these models are extremely accurate — that is, to scale, they reproduce the shape and dimensions of the real thing almost perfectly. Also, as far possible, the colours of the prototype. Even, if weathered, the appearance of dirt. The model looks very, very like the real thing — just smaller. It is in that sense, truly an accurate model.

But, of course, the body of the model is a plastic moulding. Its construction is quite unlike the real thing. Most parts don’t function as they do on the full size vehicle. Except for its appearance, the model has very little resemblance to the real wagon.

Is superficial appearance really all that matters? That does seem to be the consensus view. Yet, very recently, in someone’s WT thread, a model wagon with wooden planking made of wood was being described, and the wood was being used because it was prototypical. Live steam locomotive models often involve some necessary departures from true scale dimensions — but, overall, undoubtedly far more closely resemble the full size locomotive than an electric-powered steam-outline model.

It’s a matter of personal taste, of course. We all make our own judgements about what matters to us. Others will no doubt take a different view, but I would contend that models I have illustrated in this thread do reproduce essential characteristics of the real wagons. They are, in that sense, truly realistic. These two, for example:

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They are, as the prototype would be, over 100 years old. The bodies are wood with metal fittings. The bolsters swivel and the chains can be used to secure real loads. Going round curves, the wagons and load behave as per full size. In so many ways, these wagons are accurate reproductions of the real wagons. Just not in exactly reproducing appearance.

This 1930s model wagon has working brakes:

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A modern wagon model would likely have finer components in its model brake gear. But the brakes on the above wagon reproduce exactly how the full size brakes work. Is it more ‘realistic’ to look exactly like the prototype or work exactly like the prototype?

Deciding that appearance is all-important is a perfectly reasonable personal choice. But other — surely equally legitimate — criteria are available for judging realism.

Discuss.
 
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Alan

Western Thunderer
I would add besides look like, does it feel like the prototype. You are only looking at individual models not a layout as whole.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
I would add besides look like, does it feel like the prototype. You are only looking at individual models not a layout as whole.
Quite right. There’s a whole further set of considerations about whether a layout, as a whole, is realistic. The model railway can be more or less than the sum of its parts. Ten very short sidings crammed into a small space (unless some highly unusual prototype) is unlikely to capture the feel of a real station or yard, even if every individual piece of rolling stock is perfect. There is perhaps a parallel discussion to be had whether ‘realism’ is about appearance, operation or function. Ideally, perhaps, a layout would excel at all three — but practical considerations often mean the emphasis has to be on a particular aspect. Some layouts look completely convincing, to my eyes anyway. Some accurately replicate operation running a timetable on a system. Some replicate function, actually carrying something from ‘A’ to ‘B’. Personally, I think all three are ‘realistic’, in their different ways. I can admire them all. I have chosen with Rivermead Central, in a very small way, to try to replicate the feel of famous vintage ‘system’ layouts such as Paddington to Seagood, or The Sherwood Section of the LMS. On WT and at shows I can admire wonderful layouts which have achieved incredibly high standards of visual representation. I like the best of both worlds.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I recall Freezer’s book on signalling, “some people could run trains of ping pong balls, as long as it’s under absolute block” or words to that effect.

it is, of course, about whatever floats the particular modeller’s boat. We’re doing it for fun, to suit ourselves, and unless on the exhibition circuit, others’ opinions are interesting but ultimately only as important as we care to make them.

There are some layouts on here (and on RMW) that just look “right” (to my eyes). Is that “historical accuracy“, “realism”, or “capturing the atmosphere”, or even “ticking some box even I don’t know I’ve got” - perhaps a vague recollection of some half-forgotten memory, real or photographic, or even of a memorable model?

I’m sure there’s a PhD in Philosophy in there somewhere…
 

40057

Western Thunderer
I recall Freezer’s book on signalling, “some people could run trains of ping pong balls, as long as it’s under absolute block” or words to that effect.

it is, of course, about whatever floats the particular modeller’s boat. We’re doing it for fun, to suit ourselves, and unless on the exhibition circuit, others’ opinions are interesting but ultimately only as important as we care to make them.

There are some layouts on here (and on RMW) that just look “right” (to my eyes). Is that “historical accuracy“, “realism”, or “capturing the atmosphere”, or even “ticking some box even I don’t know I’ve got” - perhaps a vague recollection of some half-forgotten memory, real or photographic, or even of a memorable model?

I’m sure there’s a PhD in Philosophy in there somewhere…
Though we may struggle to know what they are, there clearly are reasons why model railways are really important to quite a large number of people. How much is down to nostalgia for half-remembered experiences in early life it’s hard to say — possibly quite an important factor in my case. But ‘intellectual curiosity’ about historical objects and the world in which they existed is certainly a driver. The visual appeal of the steam railway locomotive (and its sound and smell). I am fascinated by miniaturisation — tiny versions of larger objects of any kind. All of these are contributing factors that have made model railways a big part of my life. I’ll offer one more reason why I have chosen to build the particular model railway described here. As well as all the ‘rational’ historic interest. Trains, real trains, are exciting. Stand on a station platform as a steam-hauled special runs through at 70 mph. There’s the anticipation, then seeing or hearing it in the distance. Watching the train approach. The noise, the smell, the rush of air as the train sweeps through. The resulting adrenalin high. I find it as exciting now as I did as a child. It is still a thrilling experience. Can that personal thrill from watching a train go by be recreated by a model? I think so, and it may well be why generations of boys lay on the living room floor as their Hornby express sped by across the carpet after emerging from under the settee. It was real in that watching it was like watching a real train. That same short rush of excitement. An 0 gauge, clockwork-powered, tinplate train makes quite a noise. It’s big enough to have real presence and inertia. As with a real steam train, you can almost feel the effort of the locomotive as it speeds past — and it’s driven by its own power, not under control by the viewer. At some level, that experience is real and exciting — and possibly even addictive.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
Great excitement at Rivermead Central as a new locomotive for the railway is expected to arrive this week. I say ‘new’ but that is ‘new’ to my railway, not new ‘new’. It’s actually 70 years old, built between 1954 and 1956.

Largely coincidentally, the changes in the range of 0 gauge models offered by Bassett-Lowke after WW2 closely mirror the fate of steam on BR. The most up-to-date and popular locomotive models from immediately before WW2 were gradually reintroduced between 1946 and 1952 as materials supplies allowed. New lithographed tinplate coaches based on LMS Stanier stock, but in crimson and cream, were introduced in 1950. Also an updated freelance 4-4-0, now named ‘Prince Charles’ and lithographed in either BR blue or green express passenger livery. It’s difficult to tell at this distance in time, but sales of Bassett-Lowke’s 0 gauge models seem to have been buoyant for some years as the range expanded again. Not that the post-WW2 range ever got close to the variety offered prior to WW2, but there does seem to have been an optimistic outlook; some pre-war models were reintroduced with improvements, the new tinplate coaches were better models than their pre-war equivalents, the drastic reduction in the number of goods wagons offered was at least partly a reflection that there were no longer four different railway companies to cater for.

W.J. Bassett-Lowke died in 1953. Subsequently, difficulties were experienced in getting Precision Models, formerly Winteringham’s, to prioritise production of the 0 gauge range over the manufacture of Trix-Twin trains. Just one other new locomotive was introduced in the range of 0 gauge quantity-produced models; the parallel boilered Royal Scot was replaced by a model of the rebuilt engine. Trix, by then owners of Precision Models, got into financial difficulties and in about 1957 Bassett-Lowke lost its associated manufacturing company. Thereafter, the continuation of Bassett-Lowke’s 0 gauge range was largely based on selling old stock. An alternative manufacturer was found for track. A number of extremely expensive hand-built locomotives, made in tiny numbers, to order, were introduced and listed in the last catalogues issued. But, after 1957, the mass-produced and semi-mass-produced models gradually ceased to be offered as supplies ran out. The last catalogue was printed in 1963. It still included the LMS compound 4-4-0 model, originally introduced in 1928, and the Prince Charles. These were the last clockwork 0 gauge trains available that were scale models rather than toys for younger children. The end of an era that had lasted sixty years.

The trains I intend to run on Rivermead Central, with very few exceptions, will be commercially made models from the 1907-ish to 1960 period, with a definite emphasis on Bassett-Lowke as the largest supplier of model (rather than toy) trains. The particular models I have or hope to get represent a tiny fraction of the range made. They are what I happen to have found, in acceptable condition and could afford to buy. Also, I only want models I like, that I think are a pleasing representation of the prototype. And I have a bias towards models that have some significance in model railway history.

The Bassett-Lowke rebuilt Royal Scot model ticks pretty much every box in the above list. I have long hoped for one. The last new locomotive model added to the standard 0 gauge range, in 1954. Only made for about two years. Offered in clockwork and electric versions, but only a small proportion will have been clockwork at this late date. So a hard model to find, and twenty years ago an expensive one. Prices for vintage 0 gauge models though have generally fallen substantially, and a modern copy of the rebuilt Royal Scot model made by Corgi was sold in large numbers a few years back. Original Bassett-Lowke rebuilt Royal Scots now sell for less than a quarter of the price they used to fetch, for sure far less in real terms than they cost when new, and for far less than a new model of a similar-sized locomotive. A relative bargain — if an example can be found. Mine, I hope, will arrive by post in the next couple of days.

Here’s the description from the 1956 catalogue, so I know what to expect:

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I am feeling very fortunate that circumstances have made it possible to bring this locomotive to Rivermead Central. I will report on its arrival in due course.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
While we await the arrival of 46100, it might be of interest to put the rebuilt Royal Scot model into context within the post-WW2 Bassett-Lowke 0 gauge range.

At first two, later three, ‘grades’ of locomotive were offered in the 1950s.

First, there were the models with a lithographed finish, made of tinplate and assembled using the ‘tab and slot’ method. These were mass produced models. All were offered with a choice of clockwork or electric drive. Generally, post-WW2, lithography was used for coloured parts such as boilers, tender sides etc and it included the lining where present. However, company initials, the B.R. lion and wheel emblem, running numbers were applied separately using transfers. All-black parts such as tender frames and tops were usually spray painted. Models of this class were generally well-proportioned but plain, with very little detail. The range included a freelance 0-6-0T, freelance 4-4-0 (the ‘Prince Charles’) and a freelance 0-6-0 tender locomotive. The 0-6-0 tender locomotive was in plain black livery and entirely spray painted with transfers for the running number and B.R. emblem. In B.R. livery, both 0-6-0s were offered with LM or Eastern Region numbers and the chimneys were different, Stanier pattern on the ex-LMS engines. There were two lithographed models depicting real prototypes: the LMS 4-4-0 3-cylinder compound and A1 Pacific ‘Flying Scotsman’. Both these models were quite early reintroductions after WW2 so were initially produced in pre-nationalisation colours. This is the catalogue listing for the Flying Scotsman in 1956:

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All the Flying Scotsman models have the same bodies, whether fitted with clockwork or electric motors. There is always a key-hole and a rectangular cut-out in the back-head for the control levers needed on clockwork mechanisms. The clockwork and electric motors are of similar sizes and have identical fixing points. Despite what it says in the catalogue description above, the clockwork and electric motors were also fitted with the same type of cast-iron wheels.

Note the price — £14.0.0 in 1956. This was by far the largest and most expensive of the lithographed models.

The second ‘grade’ of locomotive model offered in the 1950s can probably best be described as ‘semi-mass-produced’. Constructed in tinplate, these models were hand-assembled by soldering together the sheet-metal parts, then hand-painted and lined. Numbers and emblems were transfers. Some of the sheet metal parts were definitely made using press tools. Compared with the lithographed locomotive models, those of soldered construction do look better. There are no unsightly tabs on splasher tops etc, or inappropriate visible gaps between components. The soldered, hand-painted range were more detailed than the lithographed models. Depending on the prototype, standard fittings included smoke-box door handles, vacuum pipes on buffer beams, lamp brackets, hand-rails on the cab and smoke box. Buffers were sprung, visible axle-boxes and leaf springs on tenders and pony-trucks were detailed castings, rather than pressed sheet metal. Leaving aside the live-steam moguls, these models too were offered with either clockwork or electric drive. The motors were the same type as fitted to the Flying Scotsman model. Unlike for the lithographed models, the bodies of electric models in the hand-built range did not have a key-hole or cut-out for clockwork controls in the back-head. In the range of soldered-construction, hand-painted, tinplate locomotive models offered post-WW2 were LMS (then LMR) Pacific ‘Duchess of Montrose’, a Stanier 2-6-4T and the ‘Royal Scot’. As per my previous post, the Royal Scot model as reintroduced post-WW2 was of the locomotive as originally built but with a Stanier tender and in LMS black livery. The B.R. version was of the locomotive as rebuilt with a taper boiler.

This is the 1956 catalogue listing for the Duchess of Montrose:

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More than twice the price of the Flying Scotsman.

There were four 0 gauge live steam models post-WW2. Two freelance models, the ‘Enterprise’ 4-4-0 and ‘Super-Enterprise’ 4-6-0. These were hand-painted (soon paint-less, if used) but had tab-and-slot construction tenders. The Gresley and Stanier moguls were of all-soldered construction, with similar levels of detailing to the hand-painted clockwork and electric models described above.

From 1957, Bassett-Lowke offered improved versions of its standard lithographed and hand-painted locomotive models. The upgraded models were marketed as ‘nu-scale’. The enhancements took the lithographed models up to a level of detail on a par with the hand-painted range, though they were still in lithographed finish. Nu-scale versions of the standard models have larger diameter bogie wheels, smaller wheel flanges and were available converted to 2-rail electric.

The third ‘grade’ of locomotive models offered in the 1950s were individually hand-built. These were generally constructed to order, in brass, and were electric only. They were hugely expensive and sold in tiny numbers. This is the 1956 catalogue listing for the GW Castle:

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More than twice the price of the Duchess of Montrose.

Later models in this series included a Britannia Pacific (£72) and Deltic (£96). Most of these models seem to have been built by a subcontractor rather than at Northampton. It is believed there were 12 Castles built by Victor Hunt plus an unknown number of an uncatalogued simpler version that was a Northampton product. It has been suggested there were ten Deltic models made, also the work of Victor Hunt. Very few standard Bassett-Lowke parts were used in these models, though I believe the Britannia was fitted with a standard Bassett-Lowke motor, driving wheels and valve gear, as used for the Duchess of Montrose and Flying Scotsman.

Speaking personally, I have never had chance to closely examine any model from the very expensive hand-made range. I’ve seen photos, of course, so I know the model of ‘Deltic’ does not look much like the real loco. The Castle — the Hunt version anyway — is a beautiful model, but it requires very large radius curves. None of the models from this range is ever going to appear at Rivermead Central.
 
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Fitzroy

Western Thunderer
I hope your rebuilt Royal Scot lives up to expectations Martin! Post some pics when you get it. I had the opportunity to do a light overhaul on a friend's B-L 8F a few weeks back. Not a whole lot of detail, but surprisingly delicate and convincing, and a great presence.
Cheers
Pieter
 

40057

Western Thunderer
I hope your rebuilt Royal Scot lives up to expectations Martin! Post some pics when you get it. I had the opportunity to do a light overhaul on a friend's B-L 8F a few weeks back. Not a whole lot of detail, but surprisingly delicate and convincing, and a great presence.
Cheers
Pieter
Wow! There must have been a tiny number of the 8Fs. I have never seen one. Do you have a photo of that you could post? Please.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
The Royal Scot is here. I haven’t photographed it because there has been very little daylight since it arrived. I will post pictures once I can get decent ones. It’s a fine thing and an interesting contrast to the much older locomotives shown previously. Different both because it’s a model of a modern steam locomotive and because of advances in modelling and customers’ increased expectations. The loco will have to go into shops before the new year. As explained in my post #211, the recess in the loco bodies will accommodate either a clockwork or the equivalent size electric motor. In the hand-built soldered construction locos though, models sold with electric motors did not have key-holes or cut-outs for clockwork controls in the back-head — so an electric model cannot be converted to clockwork (not without mutilating it, anyway). Clockwork models can however very easily be converted to electric drive by simply taking out the clockwork mechanism and substituting the same sized electric motor. The giveaway that this has been done is the redundant key-hole and cut-out in the back-head. My Royal Scot has been converted to electric drive. I know the person who was selling it and I have bought the loco but not the electric motor currently fitted. I need to take that out, take off the wheels and valve gear, send back the motor and reinstate clockwork power (with the original wheels and valve gear). Straightforward but must be done carefully. The tender needs a small repair to straighten out a badly bent part. That too will need to be done carefully. I will cut a piece of wood to sit behind the bent component so that pressure is not applied to soldered joints during the straightening process. Fingers crossed on that one.

I’ve got a bit further with the Benham’s office building:

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Now with fascia (repurposed wood from a coffee stirrer). Also the flashing at the top of the roof and the south elevation of the main building now at full height. I’ve still to make and fit the window-sill. I will then join the above assembly to the main part of the building. The window frame and glazing will not be fitted until the whole building has been constructed, painted and weathered, so weathering and matt varnish can be applied by spraying.

I’ve decided on what to do for the wall covering/back scene immediately south of the Benham’s works. I didn’t have a plan before; I’m making this stuff up as I go along. The side-wall of a ‘north-light’ type factory building, in low relief, will I think look just right. A contrasting style to any of the Benham’s buildings, which are themselves quite varied. So I hope the result will look like a jumble of industrial buildings, varying shapes in grey and brown. As close as I can get to the impression of an industrial townscape in a strip c.70 mm wide between the rearmost track and the back edge of the layout.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
A few too many model railway plates being spun at the moment, due to circumstances. I had resolved to rebuild another Lowko Track point, made a good start but then broke my 12 BA tap which stopped progress. So I started on the next building, the Benham’s office. Then the Carette wheel sets turned up on an internet auction site, so I bought those. When they arrived I couldn’t resist starting work to see how many good wheel sets I could assemble so another Carette wagon (or two) could be repaired. Meantime, I still had to finish relaying the siding lifted so I could install the Benham’s factory building on the layout. Then, unexpectedly, the Royal Scot was acquired, which also needs works attention.

I like having a variety of projects underway. The different activities add interest. Putting something aside for a couple of days is sometimes necessary for glue or paint to harden, so having something else to work on helps overall progress. But, too many projects I don’t think is a good idea. It’s too easy to forget a train of thought or what needs to be done next if you haven’t touched something in weeks and meanwhile been working on four other things. So before I start on the Royal Scot, I want to get a couple of other projects finished, or at least to a stage where it is clear what is done and what is still required.

I would like to complete the structure — walls and roof — of the Benham’s office building. Not fit the windows, which will have to wait until all the painting and weathering is done, but everything else. I won’t start on the wall with door and steps that goes between the office and warehouse buildings. The side section with sloping roof has progressed to this:

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The window-sill is fitted. I want to pick out a few of the roof tiles in a different shade of grey, as I did on the Benham’s warehouse. The inside needs to be painted black and a ‘blanking plate’ (also black) made to fit on the back to cover the blue painted wall behind. There is a lot of reflection from the window glass, so I think a completely dark interior is the best way of suggesting a large internal space. I will do everything except fit the window before I join the above section to the main structure.

I do need to get back to the Lowko Track point before I forget what I was doing. I have armed myself with a new 12 BA tap; some morning, I just have to decide the point is the next job and get on with it. If I get all the work done to the rails at the ‘crossing end’ of the point, I can pause it there.

And, I MUST FINISH RELAYING THE SIDING IN FRONT OF THE BENHAM’S FACTORY.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
I have finished relaying the siding in front of the Benham’s factory. So that’s one project ticked off the list. Prompted by my own post of earlier today, this afternoon was spent completing the work on the ‘middle siding’. That done, I have put the roof sign in place on the Benham’s factory.

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The three sidings behind Cairnie Junction platform 1 are now complete — points and buffer stops included — and I cannot see any reason why I would need to disturb them again. Ideally, I would have liked a few more millimetres between the middle siding and the front of the Benham’s factory building. The gap between the sleeper-built buffer stop and the factory wall is a scale c.19”, the clearance for a 9’-wide rail vehicle, 2’ 3”. The position of the siding is a consequence of the geometry of Lowko Track, so a given that I couldn’t alter by more than a few mm. The gap is as large as I could make it by exploiting the ‘slop’ in the exact relative position of the two points.

Please excuse the poor quality of the next photo which is terribly grainy due to poor light and magnification. However, this is the view of the Benham’s buildings seen on entering the railway room from the stairs:

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This is exactly the effect I was looking for when I decided on adding a roof sign to the factory. To me anyway, it gives the factory a look of importance well above its quite modest physical size.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
The sloping roof section of the Benham’s office is now as finished as it needs to be before joining it to the main part of the building. I picked out a few random slates in a slightly different grey, painted the inside black and added wooden blocks for fastening the back cover. I have also made the back cover. All this I judged was easier working with just the small section with the sloping roof, rather than after joining the two parts of the building.

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I’ll attach this section to the main building later today or tomorrow. There will be some tidying up to do around the joint, but we’ll be well on towards completion once that is done.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
Seasons greetings. I see Christmas-themed images have been posted on various threads. The best I can do from Rivermead Central is this:

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A Minic clockwork post van with some very over-scale Christmas parcels.

Since my wife’s kind gift of a Minic lorry (see my post #118), I’ve been looking out for Minic road vehicles suitable for use on Rivermead Central. I have to say they are quite charming little models. I am not going to become a Minic collector. These are ‘set dressing’ for my railway. I don’t need my Minics to be in mint condition, nor do I need to buy rare and expensive ones. Less-than-perfect examples of common models are very easily found and widely available. I have a sort of list (not an actual wish list, you understand) of Minic vehicles that would be appropriate for various locations on Rivermead Central. The post van, a taxi and a couple of saloon cars outside the station. A grander car in front of the station hotel. A lorry or two by one of the factory buildings.

The other suitable vehicle I have obtained, a couple of months ago now, is this railway delivery lorry:

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This could also be parked outside one of the stations. Nice, period models exactly right for my vintage railway.
 

40057

Western Thunderer
Steady progress with the Benham’s office building. It’s now in one piece. All the brick-work pieces are fastened in place, but some brick- and mortar-coloured paint still needs to be applied where the two parts were joined.

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I have only now added the top, projecting, end-on course of bricks on top of which will be the coping. The arrangement of brick-work at the top of the walls here is different to the warehouse and factory buildings. The next job is to fit the roof, then coping and window-sills.
 
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