Rivets

[Richard Gawler]

I've been using a Metalsmiths rivet press for a while. If the depth stop is adjusted properly, and kept tight, it does create reasonably nice looking rivets. I say reasonably because if I'm not careful some tend to be a touch too pointed for my liking, creating more of a conical than the domed headed rivet I need. This I put down to the stake being too pointed. Being hardened steel I've found it impossible to file back so as to take the tip off. Also, if the depth stop works loose the pointed stake will, whilst creating a rivet, drive through half etched brass 'rivet dimples' leaving rivets with tiny holes in them! I am considering asking some one who could turn me up a replacement stake with a less pointed tip, though doing this I may also need to look at the anvil too.

Wet 'n dry paper stuck on a stick will do the job more reliably, while the punch is rotating.

I have one of the Metalsmiths's punches too, mine was supplied by the Midland Railway Centre.



The punch consistently either produces a tiny puncture in the brass or hardly any impression at all.

Please - supposing I try some wet and dry paper with the punch rotating - how fast should the punch be rotating? My options are a hand drill and a 2,700 rpm electric drill. I envisage the hand drill clamped in the vice.

 

[Tony Overton]

I've now tried the 'blunt the punch tip' trick using a diamond disc cutter in my trusty handheld Minicraft drill. All I needed to do was to literally just touch the tip of the punch (held in a vice) very briefly and the tip was instantly ground back just right. The punch tip is now more rounded and no longer punctures half etched rivet dimples on etched parts making very nice rounded rivet heads . I'm now sourcing new anvils and punches for the Metal Smith's press so as to be able to press slightly larger rivets.

 

[Richard Gawler]

I've now tried the 'blunt the punch tip' trick using a diamond disc cutter in my trusty handheld Minicraft drill. All I needed to do was to literally just touch the tip of the punch (held in a vice) very briefly and the tip was instantly ground back just right. The punch tip is now more rounded and no longer punctures half etched rivet dimples on etched parts making very nice rounded rivet heads .

Sorted

I am now creating rivet heads around 0.022" diameter and 0.015" deep and no daylight showing through from the other side.

 

[Hawkeye]

I punch a lot of my rivets, but for certain situations drilling holes and inserting turned brass rivets is an alternative. While it is not cheap, “real” rivets look good, and they can also be an aid in positioning parts and strengthen joints. I use rivets with head diameters of 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0 mm from Hassler profile in Lichtenstein. ( www.hassler-profile.li). He sells a lot of other goodies for modelers, too. All the rivets in the images are turned brass rivets with a head size of 0.6 mm.