Robust (Yard), Ohio - HO Gauge
- Thread starter jonte
- Start date
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte,
Nice plan, nice benchwork, excellent humour.
I like the simple plan. And your vision. The hippy in me likes your recycling. Jim Morrison would be happy.
"There are things you know about, and things you don’t, the known and the unknown, and in between are the doors.."
Cheers
Jan
Nice plan, nice benchwork, excellent humour.
I like the simple plan. And your vision. The hippy in me likes your recycling. Jim Morrison would be happy.
"There are things you know about, and things you don’t, the known and the unknown, and in between are the doors.."
Cheers
Jan
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Jan, my old friend.
Simple is all I'm capable of, I'm afraid, but it keeps me out of trouble. Truth about the recycling is that I had to go out and buy the timber for the kegs as my stocks are low. Here's hoping that some other benevolent soul will kindly donate some more buck-shee timber do that I can build a suitable valence when the time is right.
Btw, glad you find my posts interesting, but they're certainly not as colourful as yours
Thanks as always for your interest and kind words of encouragement.
Up the argyle!
Jon.
Simple is all I'm capable of, I'm afraid, but it keeps me out of trouble. Truth about the recycling is that I had to go out and buy the timber for the kegs as my stocks are low. Here's hoping that some other benevolent soul will kindly donate some more buck-shee timber do that I can build a suitable valence when the time is right.
Btw, glad you find my posts interesting, but they're certainly not as colourful as yours
Thanks as always for your interest and kind words of encouragement.
Up the argyle!
Jon.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Dear Westerners.
My sincerest apologies for the lack of modelling progress of late, but I needed to get on with some of the mundane bench work while the sun shone. Aware that this is a fundamental of any project, there's still nothing more disappointing for most, me included, than tuning into a thread that doesn't feature even the smallest morsel of modelling.
To address this imbalance, despite time being at a premium, I have decided to adopt the 5-20-5 rule which at least will keep some momentum going for the interim, and ensure that the reader has at least a little more to, hopefully, maintain their interest and perhaps even make their visit it a fruitful one.
Whilst I'll be keeping a handle on completing the details and weathering of the GP 38-2 as promised, I'll also be making a start on making something vaguely resembling this https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattditton1976/10425226473/in/pool-2120328@N24 from this:
Utilising these bits and bobs which were on/under the desk:
Incidentally, you may just be able to make out three off-cuts of thin veneer amongst the pile of oddments, which will be laminated to form the wooden ties on the deck of the bridge, as seen in the photo above. Those of you who may have been following this excuse for a thread, will remember that I'd intended to press into service several coffee stirrers for this purpose, however, I changed my mind after a disastrous test to replicate faded bitumen using matt black enamel in copious amounts of thinners resulted in this:
Whilst I may be hankering after warped rails in an attempt to replicate the prototype, I didn't intend this to include sleepers (sorry, ties!), so have gone back to using veneer as per Industrial Place (there's a photo of the results of this method on the previous page for any kind soul that might be interested).
Actually, I've just realised that I'd forgotten to include a piece of plain white plasticard in the oddments pile above, which will be used to replicate the triangular cross-members and their circular brackets, so prominent at the entry/exits to each portion if the bridge in the photograph of the prototype. I should also make mention at this juncture, that Not only will I be constructing just one section of the original, but only a portion of that, as the intention is merely to view the bridge from head-on as in the photograph. This will not only help in saving valuable space, but has also proved to be a case of serendipity as two of the angular ends if the kit are bent. According to the instructions, this is not unusual and can be remedied with a soak in some boiling water, however, knowing my luck, they'll be stuck like that- or I'll just make them a darned sight worse!!
Anyway, I'll try and make a start tomorrow evening, but will only post now and then because, as you can imagine, half an hour here and there won't make for interesting reading and we'll just be back to square one!
Thanks for popping in.
Jonte
Edit: photo of ties not on previous page as mentioned in text so have attached them here instead. Apologies.
My sincerest apologies for the lack of modelling progress of late, but I needed to get on with some of the mundane bench work while the sun shone. Aware that this is a fundamental of any project, there's still nothing more disappointing for most, me included, than tuning into a thread that doesn't feature even the smallest morsel of modelling.
To address this imbalance, despite time being at a premium, I have decided to adopt the 5-20-5 rule which at least will keep some momentum going for the interim, and ensure that the reader has at least a little more to, hopefully, maintain their interest and perhaps even make their visit it a fruitful one.
Whilst I'll be keeping a handle on completing the details and weathering of the GP 38-2 as promised, I'll also be making a start on making something vaguely resembling this https://www.flickr.com/photos/mattditton1976/10425226473/in/pool-2120328@N24 from this:
Utilising these bits and bobs which were on/under the desk:
Incidentally, you may just be able to make out three off-cuts of thin veneer amongst the pile of oddments, which will be laminated to form the wooden ties on the deck of the bridge, as seen in the photo above. Those of you who may have been following this excuse for a thread, will remember that I'd intended to press into service several coffee stirrers for this purpose, however, I changed my mind after a disastrous test to replicate faded bitumen using matt black enamel in copious amounts of thinners resulted in this:
Whilst I may be hankering after warped rails in an attempt to replicate the prototype, I didn't intend this to include sleepers (sorry, ties!), so have gone back to using veneer as per Industrial Place (there's a photo of the results of this method on the previous page for any kind soul that might be interested).
Actually, I've just realised that I'd forgotten to include a piece of plain white plasticard in the oddments pile above, which will be used to replicate the triangular cross-members and their circular brackets, so prominent at the entry/exits to each portion if the bridge in the photograph of the prototype. I should also make mention at this juncture, that Not only will I be constructing just one section of the original, but only a portion of that, as the intention is merely to view the bridge from head-on as in the photograph. This will not only help in saving valuable space, but has also proved to be a case of serendipity as two of the angular ends if the kit are bent. According to the instructions, this is not unusual and can be remedied with a soak in some boiling water, however, knowing my luck, they'll be stuck like that- or I'll just make them a darned sight worse!!
Anyway, I'll try and make a start tomorrow evening, but will only post now and then because, as you can imagine, half an hour here and there won't make for interesting reading and we'll just be back to square one!
Thanks for popping in.
Jonte
Edit: photo of ties not on previous page as mentioned in text so have attached them here instead. Apologies.
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jonte
Western Thunderer
As. I prepare to make a start on the girder bridge as per last night's post, I thought I'd share with you the results of a quick test I conducted several weeks ago - but forgot all about - to produce a winter-looking tree similar to those spindly individuals that frame the track in the following portfolio: https://www.flickr.com/groups/2120328@N24/
The skeleton tree on the left is formed of cake decoration wire which I believe forms the basis of Gordon Gravett's trees, although I should stress I 've yet to read his book on the subject to confirm this.
The good point is that as suspected, the paper covering makes it easy to glue several lengths together to form the trunk using wood glue, therefore, I presume a plaster/PVA 'bark' covering would adhere just as well. The bad point IMHO is that it looks too streamline. I believe a lot more work would be required to produce the finer branch endings, for instance, which would involve the stripping of the paper covering initially, a difficult process with the wire on the flat, never mind trying to do so with trunk and secondary branches already formed. Perhaps the die-hards among us would have persevered; frankly I'd had enough!
Now we turn to the tree on the right which took not much longer than the first to produce. Fettled from some multi-core stuff hanging up on a coil in my garage, it was a dream to work with in comparison, the plastic covering sliding off previous cut lengths with ease which were then twisted up into main and secondary trunks, conjoined using the same method. Finally, they were soldered to a brass pin and the whole covered in solder to make them a little more robust and able to retain their shape. I say the whole; as you can see, parts still need covering but the fumes were choking, so the rest can wait until the summer when I can while away the odd day or two soldering to my hearts content. Another bonus, is that I can add further 'twigs' to make them denser at the top by simply soldering on more of the fine copper wire here and there. In total, it took about two hours to produce what you see, but I'm sure I can improve on this with practice; and you can rest assured I'll be getting plenty of that.
Of course, it has yet to be rinsed, dried, covered with bark and then painted, but I'm optimistic that I'll be able to start a production line to hasten proceedings when the time arrives. Ahum!
Finally, I think the best approach will be to plant in groups of two or three - like the real ones- rather just go ahead and plant them in rows; I feel it would end up looking a little too regimented?
Now, onto the bridge. Think I'll start by marking and cutting out the laminates that will form the ties on the bridge deck. Where did I put those off-cuts of veneer?
Jonte
The skeleton tree on the left is formed of cake decoration wire which I believe forms the basis of Gordon Gravett's trees, although I should stress I 've yet to read his book on the subject to confirm this.
The good point is that as suspected, the paper covering makes it easy to glue several lengths together to form the trunk using wood glue, therefore, I presume a plaster/PVA 'bark' covering would adhere just as well. The bad point IMHO is that it looks too streamline. I believe a lot more work would be required to produce the finer branch endings, for instance, which would involve the stripping of the paper covering initially, a difficult process with the wire on the flat, never mind trying to do so with trunk and secondary branches already formed. Perhaps the die-hards among us would have persevered; frankly I'd had enough!
Now we turn to the tree on the right which took not much longer than the first to produce. Fettled from some multi-core stuff hanging up on a coil in my garage, it was a dream to work with in comparison, the plastic covering sliding off previous cut lengths with ease which were then twisted up into main and secondary trunks, conjoined using the same method. Finally, they were soldered to a brass pin and the whole covered in solder to make them a little more robust and able to retain their shape. I say the whole; as you can see, parts still need covering but the fumes were choking, so the rest can wait until the summer when I can while away the odd day or two soldering to my hearts content. Another bonus, is that I can add further 'twigs' to make them denser at the top by simply soldering on more of the fine copper wire here and there. In total, it took about two hours to produce what you see, but I'm sure I can improve on this with practice; and you can rest assured I'll be getting plenty of that.
Of course, it has yet to be rinsed, dried, covered with bark and then painted, but I'm optimistic that I'll be able to start a production line to hasten proceedings when the time arrives. Ahum!
Finally, I think the best approach will be to plant in groups of two or three - like the real ones- rather just go ahead and plant them in rows; I feel it would end up looking a little too regimented?
Now, onto the bridge. Think I'll start by marking and cutting out the laminates that will form the ties on the bridge deck. Where did I put those off-cuts of veneer?
Jonte
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Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Hi Jonte
Its an interesting baseboard shape and presentation style you've gone for, nice to see something a bit different
I've got similar ideas about small dioramas with no integrated backscenes for outside photography floating around inside my head too, I just haven't got as far as committing them to wood yet. I must say though, that with the support structure you have already, I'd be very tempted to have permanent or temporary boards painted in the same black acting as backscenes, thus when the layout is lit, it stands as an island of colour and all the peripheral distraction is removed by the surrounding colour. Said backscenes could always be arranged to hinge down and act as a dust cover too, thus doing double duty and not making the room seem too dark when playing trains is off the agenda.
Anyway, my thoughts aside, I'll watch with interest
Steve
Its an interesting baseboard shape and presentation style you've gone for, nice to see something a bit different
I've got similar ideas about small dioramas with no integrated backscenes for outside photography floating around inside my head too, I just haven't got as far as committing them to wood yet. I must say though, that with the support structure you have already, I'd be very tempted to have permanent or temporary boards painted in the same black acting as backscenes, thus when the layout is lit, it stands as an island of colour and all the peripheral distraction is removed by the surrounding colour. Said backscenes could always be arranged to hinge down and act as a dust cover too, thus doing double duty and not making the room seem too dark when playing trains is off the agenda.
Anyway, my thoughts aside, I'll watch with interest
Steve
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi Steve and Simon.
Many thanks for your kind compliments and for taking time to pen your thoughts; they are much appreciated.
Steve: to be frank, not a lot of thought went into the design; I just got above myself As the switches were already in various states of completion, I was able to use them as templates on a roll of old lining paper, and it was only then that the thought struck me that I could deviate from the usual rectangular design, using the curvature of the radiused switch as a guide. The rest just followed, using a length of beading - like boat builders - to keep the curves regular. Ideally, the rear should follow a more regular curve, however, I only had enough timber for what you see; hence the peculiar shape Subconsciously, I think the seed had been sown by the likes of Messrs. Norman and Rice who for many years, as you will know, have been advocates of this type of thing. I suppose, as well, that more conventional designs of baseboard are far more practical when it comes to logistics; as mine will just be passed through the door (immediately behind the camera in the photos) into the garden on the odd sunny day, this wasn't of great concern - incidentally, the room itself is in the garden and was converted from a couple of out-houses several years ago to form a playroom, and as its sole purpose is for playing trains, it doesn't matter too much if it gets a little dark and dusty- I hope my wife doesn't read this 
You're absolutely right, of course, about the back scene and had been giving some thought to keeping the dust off the tracks. The dust aspect had always been of great concern and realised that some form of structure would be required for the purpose. However, interrogating many of the American forums as we railroaders tend to, it became apparent that many of them don't bother covering their acres of model real estate as we do to protect them from the dreaded dust. Instead they swear by the use of artists graphite sticks for the purpose. Following an initial clean of the rails with thinners and alcohol (probably isopropanol), they run the stick along the rails - but only in part - then run the loco over it and the wheels spread the graphite around the rest of the layout, rather like a car spreading grit across an icy stretch of road. I'm probably telling my granny how to suck eggs, Steve, but I'd certainly never heard of it. I've yet to try it for myself but, as I say, the railroaders swear by it!
Although I hadn't intended to create a back scene for this 'little' dio, like you, I began to think that it warranted one. Suffice it to say, I'm going to use hardboard for the purpose. Yes, it's nice and cheap, but it also bends easily and will curve nicely around the corners. I was going to batten the walls and to which it could be screwed, but I think I'll just screw it directly to the walls. The open end, however, will require the fabrication of a frame, as you suggest, but it shouldn't prove too difficult, even for me! Incidentally, it will be painted a lighting grey, reminiscent of a winter's day, using some left over emulsion paint with a dash of powdered poster paint added. Not very hi-tech, but fits with the recycling theme, and as it will only be seen through the 'forest of trees', it shouldn't look too bad. The new photo type back scenes on modern layouts are fabulous, and I admire those who possess the skills to create them. Unfortunately, they're beyond my capabilities.
Thoughts have also turned to lighting, so a valence will eventually be constructed and I'm thinking of opting for the new-fangled LED lighting that everybody seems to be raving over of late. I think it might just supplement the winter's day theme with its pale effect. I'll probably just suspend it on brackets, however, I've also considered hanging it from the ceiling on a frame. Dunno. I'll come back to that one in a couple of months.
If you're thinking of building a dio, go for it! Not that I've much experience, but The Americans seem to go for it in a big way, and to be fair, the natural light really enhances the fruits of their labours.
Thanks again for your interest - and btw, I love the little Caterham
Simon: Thanks, Simon. Recycling's great for both wallet and planet, but in my case, it was easier than struggling with those old MDF doors to the tip I must add it was most satisfying using up the free ply for the baseboards, though. Ideally, those brackets should be underneath out of sight, however, as it's only a bench I took the easy option 
Please keep tuning in. I sincerely hope I can maintain your interest.
Jonte
Many thanks for your kind compliments and for taking time to pen your thoughts; they are much appreciated.
Steve: to be frank, not a lot of thought went into the design; I just got above myself
As the switches were already in various states of completion, I was able to use them as templates on a roll of old lining paper, and it was only then that the thought struck me that I could deviate from the usual rectangular design, using the curvature of the radiused switch as a guide. The rest just followed, using a length of beading - like boat builders - to keep the curves regular. Ideally, the rear should follow a more regular curve, however, I only had enough timber for what you see; hence the peculiar shape Subconsciously, I think the seed had been sown by the likes of Messrs. Norman and Rice who for many years, as you will know, have been advocates of this type of thing. I suppose, as well, that more conventional designs of baseboard are far more practical when it comes to logistics; as mine will just be passed through the door (immediately behind the camera in the photos) into the garden on the odd sunny day, this wasn't of great concern - incidentally, the room itself is in the garden and was converted from a couple of out-houses several years ago to form a playroom, and as its sole purpose is for playing trains, it doesn't matter too much if it gets a little dark and dusty- I hope my wife doesn't read this You're absolutely right, of course, about the back scene and had been giving some thought to keeping the dust off the tracks. The dust aspect had always been of great concern and realised that some form of structure would be required for the purpose. However, interrogating many of the American forums as we railroaders tend to, it became apparent that many of them don't bother covering their acres of model real estate as we do to protect them from the dreaded dust. Instead they swear by the use of artists graphite sticks for the purpose. Following an initial clean of the rails with thinners and alcohol (probably isopropanol), they run the stick along the rails - but only in part - then run the loco over it and the wheels spread the graphite around the rest of the layout, rather like a car spreading grit across an icy stretch of road. I'm probably telling my granny how to suck eggs, Steve, but I'd certainly never heard of it. I've yet to try it for myself but, as I say, the railroaders swear by it!
Although I hadn't intended to create a back scene for this 'little' dio, like you, I began to think that it warranted one. Suffice it to say, I'm going to use hardboard for the purpose. Yes, it's nice and cheap, but it also bends easily and will curve nicely around the corners. I was going to batten the walls and to which it could be screwed, but I think I'll just screw it directly to the walls. The open end, however, will require the fabrication of a frame, as you suggest, but it shouldn't prove too difficult, even for me! Incidentally, it will be painted a lighting grey, reminiscent of a winter's day, using some left over emulsion paint with a dash of powdered poster paint added. Not very hi-tech, but fits with the recycling theme, and as it will only be seen through the 'forest of trees', it shouldn't look too bad. The new photo type back scenes on modern layouts are fabulous, and I admire those who possess the skills to create them. Unfortunately, they're beyond my capabilities.
Thoughts have also turned to lighting, so a valence will eventually be constructed and I'm thinking of opting for the new-fangled LED lighting that everybody seems to be raving over of late. I think it might just supplement the winter's day theme with its pale effect. I'll probably just suspend it on brackets, however, I've also considered hanging it from the ceiling on a frame. Dunno. I'll come back to that one in a couple of months.
If you're thinking of building a dio, go for it! Not that I've much experience, but The Americans seem to go for it in a big way, and to be fair, the natural light really enhances the fruits of their labours.
Thanks again for your interest - and btw, I love the little Caterham
Simon: Thanks, Simon. Recycling's great for both wallet and planet, but in my case, it was easier than struggling with those old MDF doors to the tip
I must add it was most satisfying using up the free ply for the baseboards, though. Ideally, those brackets should be underneath out of sight, however, as it's only a bench I took the easy option Please keep tuning in. I sincerely hope I can maintain your interest.
Jonte
adrian
Flying Squad
Thanks for that nugget of info - filed away for future testing.
Have you seen this thread? - a little bit of discussion on the LED strip lighting last year.
http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/lighting-advice-please.2730/page-3#post-89995
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian, and thanks for the link. I've yet to read it but look forward to doing so. Glad I mentioned it now.
Pleased that the graphite tip was of interest. If I can find it, I'll post up the link to a short video which explains far better than I do.
Hope you're managing to find a little time to devote to Holywell. Incidentally, I had you in mind when I posted up the results of the skeleton tree tests a couple of posts back. I tried using the cake decorators' wires as you can see, but I wasn't very successful. Not really a controlled test, and I can't say I've given it my all, but you just know when something isn't for you. I'm probably doing the technique a great injustice and to repeat, I've still to read Mr. Gravett's book, so not really sure if I'm even doing it right! As the great man is spending the weekend only a mile or two up the road from me with Pempoul, the easiest thing would be to take the wires along and seek his advice - and support the Liverpool MRS in the process. I'll see if there's a 'window' in the schedule my wife's prepared for me
Edit: Still looking for the video on applying graphite to the rails; in the meantime, here's a thread on the topic gleaned from Model Railroad Hobbyist's on-line forum which you may find interesting http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17181
I think the video may be located somewhere amongst it pages so I'll have a quick scan later. Whilst having a quick butcher's at a couple of pages, I was amazed to read that an Australian modeller has been using this method without fault on his exhibition layout for the past six years. Apparently it only enjoys an annual outing, being mothballed for the rest of the year. Still, the only preparation he undertakes is to dust off the layer of dust from the tracks, Hoover up any loose ballast then play! As the graphite (or Graphene to be precise) layer is still in place on the rails from the year before, there is absolutely no requirement for a further application!
I wonder if this would be of general interest to the forum?
Jonte
Pleased that the graphite tip was of interest. If I can find it, I'll post up the link to a short video which explains far better than I do.
Hope you're managing to find a little time to devote to Holywell. Incidentally, I had you in mind when I posted up the results of the skeleton tree tests a couple of posts back. I tried using the cake decorators' wires as you can see, but I wasn't very successful. Not really a controlled test, and I can't say I've given it my all, but you just know when something isn't for you. I'm probably doing the technique a great injustice and to repeat, I've still to read Mr. Gravett's book, so not really sure if I'm even doing it right! As the great man is spending the weekend only a mile or two up the road from me with Pempoul, the easiest thing would be to take the wires along and seek his advice - and support the Liverpool MRS in the process. I'll see if there's a 'window' in the schedule my wife's prepared for me
Edit: Still looking for the video on applying graphite to the rails; in the meantime, here's a thread on the topic gleaned from Model Railroad Hobbyist's on-line forum which you may find interesting http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/17181
I think the video may be located somewhere amongst it pages so I'll have a quick scan later. Whilst having a quick butcher's at a couple of pages, I was amazed to read that an Australian modeller has been using this method without fault on his exhibition layout for the past six years. Apparently it only enjoys an annual outing, being mothballed for the rest of the year. Still, the only preparation he undertakes is to dust off the layer of dust from the tracks, Hoover up any loose ballast then play! As the graphite (or Graphene to be precise) layer is still in place on the rails from the year before, there is absolutely no requirement for a further application!
I wonder if this would be of general interest to the forum?
Jonte
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oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte.
In fact I'd heard of the graphite trick before, from Bob Alderman. I think Bob started at least using graphite pencil - Steph may remember the details. It just seems counter intuitive to use something which is so slippery when we are looking for as much adhesion as we can get, but Bob reported that he found no difference in pulling power.
Probably a good subject for a post-grad paper!
Brian
In fact I'd heard of the graphite trick before, from Bob Alderman. I think Bob started at least using graphite pencil - Steph may remember the details. It just seems counter intuitive to use something which is so slippery when we are looking for as much adhesion as we can get, but Bob reported that he found no difference in pulling power.
Probably a good subject for a post-grad paper!
Brian
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi Brian, and thanks for your input.
If you go into the link for Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine on-line forum in my last post, there are approximately fifteen pages or so containing several hypotheses as to why this so (take a look at Mr. Garaty's post, third post down on page 14 - he mentions a phenomenon called 'superlubricity' or something or other, which suggests that unless the graphite crystals lie directly in line, which obviously isn't the case between rails and model loco wheels, then lubrication isn't achieved. It even wanders into the realms of adsorption between layers of graphite in a vacuum.....ouch! My head hurts
).
I reckoned one of our home-grown luminaries would be aware of all this so thanks for confirming!
Incidentally, ordinary pencils can be used but according to one post, HB pencils are too hard, 2B and 4B - I think - are better as the lead ( which I've always called it) in these is softer and therefore easier to apply.
You'd think I knew what I was talking about. Now, where's that Key Stage 4 dual-science book ?
Regards,
Jonte
If you go into the link for Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine on-line forum in my last post, there are approximately fifteen pages or so containing several hypotheses as to why this so (take a look at Mr. Garaty's post, third post down on page 14 - he mentions a phenomenon called 'superlubricity' or something or other, which suggests that unless the graphite crystals lie directly in line, which obviously isn't the case between rails and model loco wheels, then lubrication isn't achieved. It even wanders into the realms of adsorption between layers of graphite in a vacuum.....ouch! My head hurts
).I reckoned one of our home-grown luminaries would be aware of all this so thanks for confirming!
Incidentally, ordinary pencils can be used but according to one post, HB pencils are too hard, 2B and 4B - I think - are better as the lead ( which I've always called it
) in these is softer and therefore easier to apply.You'd think I knew what I was talking about. Now, where's that Key Stage 4 dual-science book ?
Regards,
Jonte
adrian
Flying Squad
Thanks for that - the multi-core wire process for the trees looks more promising to be honest from the photo's you posted. It'll be interesting to see how you progress - I will order Mr Gravetts book as well, I'm leaning towards to producing a late autumn feel for Holywell so the bare look of the multi-wire trees are probably going to be more suitable I think. Unfortunately progress on the practical side of Holywell has taken an unwanted break. I had a slight(!) accident falling off a push bike at just over 20mph. A badly sprained wrist has severely curtailed any modelling activities at the moment. I can still scour the web for details on how to do stuff so it's not all been wasted time!