Rye Sands

James Spooner

Western Thunderer
The grande vitesse van is all painted up. I'm not entirely convinced by the colour although the beauty of modelling SECR is nobody can actually decide what the correct colour is anyway!

I've not decided I've I'm going to line it or not yet. Once that's settled I'll make the final push and get it done

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I've been working on my second etched kit this week. It's the aforementioned Roxey mouldings LCDR brake third. This is definitely a step up in difficulty. The instructions aren't nearly as good and some etches don't seem quite right. The duckets for example don't seem to be designed with the curve where it meets the carriage side, instead just having a flat plane. It was easy enough to reshape it into a curve with some trimming and sanding but given how new I am to this game I was a little nervous departing from the instructions.

I also found out the hard way what happens when you hold the soldering iron in one place for too long, hence the little dent in the non-ducket end

The coach seemed to have an infinite number of overlays and door handles which meant just preparing the coach sides took the same amount of time as the whole Grande Vitesse van build. The sides need some more tidying up

If anyone has tips for removing excess solder from the panel lines beyond just scribing it out they'd be much appreciated!

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I'm very much enjoying this etched brass lark but I can't help but feel the more I do the more daunted I become about the prospect of attempting a loco, especially the high level neilson I've got on the way!

Will
That’s looking very good Will! When I am cleaning up solder, if it is just a mere smear, I find the fibreglass pens very helpful. They seem to be strong enough to rub away the solder whilst too soft to obliterate the etched brass detail.

Nigel
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Blobs of solder can be wicked away with some copper wire braid. Simply press the braid against the solder with the tip of a hot soldering iron and watch the solder flow. The residue left can be rubbed away with a fiberglass stick as Nigel says but often it is just a stain which will be covered by the paint.

Ian.

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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Nice LCDR 4w coaches - shame Roxey do not offer these in 7mm scale.

As for the livery I just went for the closest I could mix up from Vallejo acrylic paint to match a colour plate in a contemporary publication - Our Home Railways by W J Gordon published by Frederick Warne in 1910. The South Eastern & Chatham Railway

I think the official description was Wellington Brown.

This is my much detailed Alphagrafix 7mm etched kit of an ex-LCDR 6W composite brake (which ended up on the EKR declassified as a brake 3rd)

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spikey faz

Western Thunderer
As an alternative to the fibreglass pencil I've been known to use a small wad of wire-wool to help remove excess solder. But, that's after I've scraped away the worst of the excess solder.

Mike
 

Willl

Active Member
Wire wool sounds like a good option - I’ve been using a fibreglass pen and the solder wick already but have needed something a bit more vicious for some areas… my soldering definitely needs some more work

Nice LCDR 4w coaches - shame Roxey do not offer these in 7mm scale.

As for the livery I just went for the closest I could mix up from Vallejo acrylic paint to match a colour plate in a contemporary publication - Our Home Railways by W J Gordon published by Frederick Warne in 1910. The South Eastern & Chatham Railway

I think the official description was Wellington Brown.

This is my much detailed Alphagrafix 7mm etched kit of an ex-LCDR 6W composite brake (which ended up on the EKR declassified as a brake 3rd)

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that’s a lovely build. I’m planning on building mine in the plain varnished livery that the one at the bluebell carries. Painting the teak/wood finish should be an interesting challenge.
Will
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
Wire wool sounds like a good option - I’ve been using a fibreglass pen and the solder wick already but have needed something a bit more vicious for some areas… my soldering definitely needs some more work



that’s a lovely build. I’m planning on building mine in the plain varnished livery that the one at the bluebell carries. Painting the teak/wood finish should be an interesting challenge.
Will
Unfortunately there's sometimes no substitute for some laborious scraping! I often use the end of a very small file that had a bit broken off. The sharp broken remain is ideal for such cleaning exercises. Not that I'm suggesting you start snapping your file collection to produce such a tool!

I'm really liking the look of Rye Sands. It's the sort of thing I'd like to do if I had the room, but I model in 7mm/1ft whivh makes it a bit tricky for me.
.

Mike
 

Willl

Active Member
Something very special has arrived. A Folkestone Harbour brake van was always on the wishlist but chances of getting one RTR are slim, so I was actually considering using my extremely limited CAD skills to try and design one myself. As it happened, Chuffinghell (Chris) from the other forum offered to make one for me, and I'm glad he did as there's no way I could have made something this good. Chris also built and painted this one as a test piece, but I have another which I will be making myself.

It's an absolutely amazing example of what 3D printing is capable of now, and Chris has absolutely nailed the design. Ive no affiliation but as a very happy customer I'd thoroughly recommend sending him a message as he's got a great range of wagons.

I've not been able to get it on Rye Sands yet, but that is a sight I am very much looking forward to.

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Will
 
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