Split Axles Current Collection

28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
quick check here as I have never done this before :)
Will I be ok collecting juice through the gearbox and its bearing? you can see my problem here. I will make the split under the plastic delrin gear, I just eant to make sure im not stiring up problems collecting through the gearbox which will make the motor case live
IMG_5260.JPG
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
If you think about it, the American system gives you a live gearbox every time. I have not had any problems and invariably make the chassis live to one side or the other.

Richard
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
As these are ABC units then there is one caution. Brian C has informed me that using spilt axles for those axles which run in ball races is a no-no, any sparks between the balls and the races will lead to rapid breakdown of the case-hardening and hence pitting.

regards, Graham
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
The main bearings are plain brass, I will have to check the others. I could just leave the axle dead and still have 4 other axles live
 
JimG

JimG

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
The main bearings are plain brass, I will have to check the others. I could just leave the axle dead and still have 4 other axles live
Click to expand...

Cynric,

In S scale we normally make the gearbox axle in three parts so that the centre section, where the gearbox is positioned, is electrically neutral, so avoiding any possible problems with shorts around the motor and gearbox.

Jim.
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
JimG said:
Cynric,

In S scale we normally make the gearbox axle in three parts so that the centre section, where the gearbox is positioned, is electrically neutral, so avoiding any possible problems with shorts around the motor and gearbox.

Jim.
Click to expand...
I cant do that because the gearbox outer bearing doubles as the frame bearing, i could just pick up from the non gearbox side

Dog Star said:
If my maths is up to scratch then 1+4 equals a Wonderloaf..... Come on, out of the cupboard.... a secret Crossley admirer!
Click to expand...
should have been an s in there :) i gearbox per bogie
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
quick check here as I have never done this before :)
Will I be ok collecting juice through the gearbox and its bearing? you can see my problem here. I will make the split under the plastic delrin gear, I just eant to make sure im not stiring up problems collecting through the gearbox which will make the motor case live
View attachment 11415
Click to expand...
Cynric,
I don't like that idea much. It's a shame you haven't got another convenient bearing in the frame, but at least you'd be able to get 10 wheel pick up, if not 12. You can still usefully pick up from the frame bearing opposite the gearbox.
There are a couple of concerns, first up is the general load on the gearbox bearings; which is probably going to be the most highly-loaded set of bearings in your chassis. And then there's the problem that should the pickup bearing have intermittent contact you'd risk passing current across the even-more highly loaded gears or motor bearings. And this really is a bad idea - DCC or not.

Dikitriki said:
If you think about it, the American system gives you a live gearbox every time. I have not had any problems and invariably make the chassis live to one side or the other.
Richard
Click to expand...

Naw - generally it doesn't, Richard, unless you have the pick up wire actually atteched to the gearbox or motor casing. It's much more normal (and effective) to pick up from the frame. In this situation the gearbox is certainly at the same potential, but doesn't actually have any current passing through it.

Dog Star said:
As these are ABC units then there is one caution. Brian C has informed me that using spilt axles for those axles which run in ball races is a no-no, any sparks between the balls and the races will lead to rapid breakdown of the case-hardening and hence pitting.

regards, Graham
Click to expand...

Which, as a general case is true and with the higher voltage, current and the fact it's effectively AC is one reason why I consider ball races, live axles and DCC to be a particularly bad combination. Even with good old analogue it could be a problem, but most who try it seem to get away with it...

Steph
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
The former (and the reason I use them) because once they're installed that's it - zero maintenance and smooth running, even if not completely frictionless.

10 wheel pick-up is good enough, isn't it?

Steph
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
just to prove it works
the axle is bored out 2mm and 2mm grp is glued in the center 24 hrs to cure and in with the parting tool. I shall fill the gap with more epoxy and job done:) much easier than drilling holed and faffing about with a hacksaw;)

I believe Steph has done a much better SBS somewhere.....

IMG_5261.JPG
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi Cynric

That's really interesting. I presume there is no torsional movement whatever, or flex come to that.

Where did you get the 2mm grp from?

And did you take any special measures to ensure adequate glue (24 hr Araldite or similar?) coverage/bonding?

Richard
 
28ten

28ten

Guv'nor
The Grp was very kindly supplied by Steph, but there is a kite shop in Bristol that stocks it, the glue is a 2 ton epoxy as recommended by Steph, I'll find the pack later! No torsional movement or flex, but obviously I was gentle with the parting off and used some lubrication. With the ABC diesel gearbox the delrin chain sprocket will fit over the join, but there is more than enough strength as is, I'm happy with the result.
 
S

Simon Dunkley

Guest
Neil said:
The pragmatist in me would say whichever is easiest.
Click to expand...
Easier when?
When building, or from a maintenance perspective?

In either case, we are looking at split axles, provided one has access to the requisite tools and materials.
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
28ten said:
just to prove it works
the axle is bored out 2mm and 2mm grp is glued in the center 24 hrs to cure and in with the parting tool. I shall fill the gap with more epoxy and job done:) much easier than drilling holed and faffing about with a hacksaw;)

I believe Steph has done a much better SBS somewhere.....

View attachment 11430
Click to expand...

Cynric,

'T'is 'ere: http://euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle3.htm, in one of the development areas of the website (which I really need to get finished). Although I must admit I still find the drill and piercing saw methods work well for me too. So you may find all three pages useful, here are the other two: http://euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle2.htm and http://euram-online.co.uk/tips/splitaxle/splitaxle.htm

Steph
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
So would I be right in assuming that you will be soldering connections from the tires to the two isolated halves of the axles to avoid the need for pick ups so you can wire up the bearings ? :)
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
I do like this method :)........up until now I have been using H.O.G./Roxey which as you probably know have a screw fit wheel at one side & a push fit insulated wheel at the other side (I like to avoid pick ups too)
But recently I have been servicing my locos & the blue Western was running erratically at slow speeds, upon examining it I discovered that the insulation on the push fit side has become worn (this is a very high mileage loco) & the ware in the insulation has given the effect of a buckled wheel & will need replacement, this method of splitting Slaters wheels has given me food for thought for future builds :):thumbs:
 
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